Ten things I learnt on my first visit to India
My apprehension increases when I hear that even Traveller's resident Tripologist and Indophile, Michael Gebicki, has succumbed to illness while there, despite more than 20 visits. What hope is there for a first-timer like me?
The journalist visa process is a frustrating jumble of red tape and clunky websites, and my first (domestic) flight is booked in the wrong direction. It feels like the universe is warning me not to risk it.
I'm travelling with a small group on a brief yet unquestionably luxurious journey to Rajasthan with Abercrombie & Kent. The flight from Melbourne to Delhi is jam-packed with members of Australia's Indian diaspora, regarded as the nation's most successful.
There are crying babies, pungent wafts of curry and a handful of passengers ignoring (or not understanding) the attendants' instructions to remain seated after landing, resulting in frustrated yelling from said attendants. It seems like another sign of the chaos that's undoubtedly to come.
As we land at Indira Gandhi airport, I help a family laden down with bags and toddler paraphernalia until they get to passport control, where we part ways.
But later, as I emerge with my own luggage into the arrivals hall, their young daughter spots me in the crowd, runs over and gives me the biggest hug – and suddenly I begin to understand the warmth of India's welcoming embrace.
Here are some other things I learnt.
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles

Sydney Morning Herald
20 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
South African Airways business class review from Perth: Ageing plane still mostly delivers
Business class seats are in a 2-2-2 configuration, which means you'll have to clamber over your neighbour if you're in a window seat. 1A in a 2-2-2-configured cabin. The seat beside me is empty, but the pull-out screen would offer some privacy if necessary. The cabin of this older plane isn't as plush as those on glossier carriers; however the absence of cubicle-style structures frees up so much space it's positively commodious. The seat has a pitch of 72 inches (185 centimetres) and width of 23 inches (60 centimetres). A small storage space is tucked beneath the armrest and there's a pocket on the bulkhead; non-bulkhead rows have shoe-storage cubbies on the seats in front of them. My backpack-tormented back is soothed by the lumbar massage function. Seats recline fully flat, and the padded seat cover, pillows and duvet transform them into comfortable beds. Note that if you're in a window seat with a neighbour beside you, you'll need to step over their flatbed when getting up. Entertainment + tech Each seat has a power port, USB plug and noise-cancelling headphones. The swing-out TV screen emits retro vibes with its somewhat faded entertainment selection; better to access comprehensive, up-to-date content on the Airscape app, downloadable onto your personal device using the barcode supplied on the plane (see I whet my appetite for the forthcoming journey by flipping through the in-flight magazine, Sawubona , which SAA has also sent me in digital format on WhatsApp. Service Seats convert to a flat bed. This is where SAA really takes off. Such genuine warmth and tactility is uncommon on other carriers, and I delight in the languages smattering flight attendants' conversations: English, Afrikaans, isiZulu and Sotho. Methode Cap Classique (sparkling wine) is served with peanuts once I'm boarded; biltong is offered as a boarding snack on the return leg (make sure to eat it all – travellers are prohibited from bringing the cured meat into Australia). Food The menu is crafted by celebrity chef and restaurateur Reuben Riffel and Benny Masekwameng, a judge on MasterChef South Africa and Ultimate Braai Master . I have crab, mushroom and polenta canapes followed by a rich tomato and capsicum soup, juicy barramundi served on a bed of spicy noodles and a tub of Bulla vanilla ice-cream (dishes are more authentically South African on the return leg – seafood curry, lamb with creamy pap). Excellent South African wines accompany the meal; Amarula liqueur makes the perfect nightcap. Sustainability Passengers who offset carbon emissions with online bookings help support Ghana's Gyapa stoves project, which reduces pollution and deforestation.* One more thing The tomato-red, canvas-style amenities bag is a keepsake filled with Aigner products. At OR Tambo Airport, in Johannesburg, staff place priority luggage on a red welcome mat. On the return flight, passengers can make use of the airport's new SAA's premium lounge. The price From about $7100 return from Perth and about $7150 return from Sydney. ** Loading The flight scores top marks for hospitality. The ageing plane (and increasingly rare, as they were last made in 2012) notwithstanding, this flight delivers the luxuries of space and comfort. The overnight schedule allows passengers to more easily adjust to the new time zone; a breather in sunny Perth hastens the process. Our rating out of five ★★★½

Sydney Morning Herald
2 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
The new way to see Europe – travelling via the ‘unbucket list'
This is Nordic bohemianism, which means that middle-class people sit in cute cafés and bistros, lie on park lawns, and jog while pushing prams. Frederiksberg's cultural aspirations are a bit posh, but you can safely ignore its little theatres and museum devoted to Danish writers. I did wander into Cisternerne, a subterranean former water reservoir turned striking art space, hidden under a hill in Sondermarken Park. But you don't want to be underground for long in Frederiksberg, which is graced with abundant parks of un-Australian greenness and politely twittering birds. From Sondermarken Park I skirt Frederiksberg Palace, onetime royal summer residence but – phew – seldom open for visits. The gardens though have been open to the public since 1852. And there the public still is, picnicking on lawns, strolling around lakes, and being ogled by elephants in the adjacent zoo. I spend a happy hour here: Copenhagen at its most delightful. Then I walk past a statue of Frederik VI – thanks mate for your green space – and cross the street where I spot a church, thundering with the music of an organist at practice. Right behind it I discover the world's most beautiful cemetery, Frederiksberg Aeldre. Lovely trees, clipped hedges, gorgeous flowerbeds, polished tombstones framed in more flowers: it would almost be worth dropping dead in Copenhagen to end up here. The cemetery is at the top of Frederiksberg Allé, one of the city's most gracious streets. If you stroll down it, pause for a rest on a bench in Sankt Thomas Plads, or join residents for a café brunch, although Danish brunches – rye bread, thinly sliced cheese, boiled eggs – are austere. But that's real life, isn't it? Better than a full English tourist brunch downtown. That's how my days pass in Copenhagen, mooching about, walking nice streets, being nosey, admiring the Scandinavian chic of independent boutiques along Værnedamsvej. I find another public park (Haveselskabets) and a horticultural garden (Landbohojskolens) where locals stare at apple trees. So I stare at apple trees too, and at passing Danes, and imagine being a Dane myself. And if anyone asks me what I did in Copenhagen, I'll have to say I did nothing much at all, but I've never had a better time. THE DETAILS Loading Fly Turkish Airlines flies from Melbourne and Sydney to Copenhagen via Istanbul. See Stay Hotel Ottilia in a converted factory close to Sondermarken Park features industrial chic, stylish Nordic furniture, a great rooftop restaurant and very welcoming staff. Rooms from DKK 1266 ($305) a night. See


West Australian
3 days ago
- West Australian
Exploring Blois in France by foot on an Albatross La Grande France tour
On group tours, you travel — and converse — with strangers who quickly become familiar figures (even if you can't always put a name to every face for the first few days). In my experiences of escorted journeys down the years, I've been fortunate to have found the vast majority of my fellow travellers decent, endearing and convivial. It's a similar story with my Albatross La Grande France tour, which includes several walking tours and meals together as we venture through the country. Now, as much as I enjoy the company of my all-Australian group, I can't deny I occasionally like a bit of me-time, especially when that involves moseying around historic French towns and cities. We get to do a fair bit of that on this tour, with free time sprinkled across the itinerary that currently spans 16 days, and which will be stretched to 19 days next year, 2026. So well has our group got on during the first portion of this tour — which has taken us from Paris into the Loire Valley — that they've all voluntarily gone for dinner together tonight. Well, everyone except me. I'm the awkward so-and-so. But that comes with the territory of being a travel writer. You're always wondering what's around the next corner and I couldn't miss the chance to explore Blois, a famous old royal city perched by the Loire River. I bid my group a temporary farewell outside L'Oratoire, a well-reviewed local restaurant housed in the former orangerie of the Chateau de Blois, a hulking landmark, the birthplace of King Louis XII, capping a bluff in the city's ancient core. Your leg muscles get a good workout in Blois. There are steep lanes and staircases to climb — and descend — but nice flat bits as well. The most colourful passage is the Escalier Denis Papin, a brightly-painted staircase named after the physicist, mathematician and inventor, who was born in Blois in 1647 and credited with creating the steam digester, the first pressure cooker. It's warm on this early summer's evening and I almost have steam coming from my ears when I reach the last of the staircase's 120 steps, where there's a statue of Denis Papin and a bar named after him. I'm tempted to pause for refreshments, but with only a few hours before sunset, I press on towards Blois' cathedral, which has been rebuilt several times since the 12th century and was almost destroyed by a particularly violent storm in 1678. Next door, the Jardins de L'Eveche command tremendous views over the city's silver rooftops with the Loire flowing behind. The gardens' rose bushes are in bloom and I'm also drawn towards the statue of Joan of Arc on horseback (in 1429, she was blessed at the Chateau de Blois before going to battle the English at Orleans). The topography of Blois may be challenging in parts, but the fact that so many streets are so scenic, bulging with centuries-old limestone and timber-beamed buildings, makes the effort worthwhile. And when you are ready for a drink and a bite to eat, there are countless options spread around the historic centre, including French bistros and more cosmopolitan eateries specialising in, say, Japanese or Vietnamese cuisine. Having enjoyed several filling three-course meals in recent days, I'm in the mood for something lighter, so I order a Breton-style galette (savoury crepe) from Le Comptoir de Mamie Bigoude, whose colourful retro-kitsch decor helps it stand out from the other establishments on Rue Saint-Martin. I enjoy my ham, cheese and mushroom galette with a glass of house red wine, then pay the bill — about $30 — and carry on walking up another staircase. This one brings me to Place du Chateau, a large square by the entrance to Blois' biggest landmark. The chateau has closed for today and so has the Maison de la Magie, a museum that faces it across the square, housed in the elegant former mansion of Jean Eugene Robert-Houdin. He was a Blois watchmaker (1805-1871) and a pioneer in the field of magic who is said to have inspired a certain Hungarian-born American illusionist, Erik Weisz — better known as Harry Houdini. With my back to the mansion and the statue of Robert-Houdin, I cross the square and walk down an alley into the Saint-Nicolas district. It spreads out from the church of the same name and has atmospheric cobbled lanes with renaissance-era mansions and alternative haunts for food and drink. Several groups of people — mostly French, by the sounds of it — are enjoying tipples and meals together in this enclave. Which reminds me. I must check the time. My group will be finishing their dinner shortly. So I climb one last steep street, where two teenage lads are racing against each other, doing short, sharp shuttle sprints. Reaching the top more slowly than them, I catch my breath and wander over to the restaurant, leaning against a wall overlooking Jardin Augustin Thierry, where a baroque church overlooks a nice little park shaded with an assortment of lovely trees. A few minutes later, my group emerges. They're in fine spirits — the food was good, apparently — and I briefly wonder if I missed out on a meal to write home about. But no, I'm happy with my choice. Blois is a treat to explore on foot. And besides, there's another group dinner on the cards tomorrow. + Steve McKenna was a guest of Albatross Tours. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication. + Free time in Blois is included on Albatross' 19-day 2025 La Grande France Tour, which begins in Paris and ends in Nice and costs $15,887 per person (twin) and $20,887 (solo). See + If visiting independently, Blois has regular rail connections to Paris with the train journey lasting between one hour 20 minutes and two hours. See + To help plan a trip to France, see