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New Statesman
2 hours ago
- New Statesman
North Korea's guide to going nuclear
Photo by AFP via Getty Images On the bright, sunny afternoon of 24 June, Kim Jong Un's gleaming mega-yacht docked in Wonsan on North Korea's east coast. The portly young dictator strolled down the gangway in a sharply tailored dark suit and sped off in a convoy of black armoured limousines. His destination was the Wonsan Kalma coastal resort, a sprawling new development featuring high-rise hotels, pristine sandy beaches and an enormous water park, whose construction he was said to have personally overseen, directing workers to create 'a tourist attraction without equal in the world'. The North Korean leader spent much of his early childhood on the Kalma Peninsula, secluded from the struggles of the rest of his impoverished country behind the high walls of the sumptuous villas reserved for the ruling family. After ascending to power in 2012 around the age of 27 (his precise birth date is unknown), following the death of his father, Kim Jong Il, Kim frequently returned to the area, building a palatial summer residence and hosting visitors on a personal yacht that the former Chicago Bulls basketball star Dennis Rodman described as a 'cross between a ferry and a Disney boat'. It was also a favoured location to flaunt his growing power. In 2014, he ordered the commanding officers of his navy to swim ten kilometres around the bay to prove their fitness, while he supervised from beneath a white parasol. During the years since, he has presided over numerous missile tests and live-fire military drills along the same stretch of coast. As Kim arrived at the opening ceremony of his new tourist resort, 'cheers of 'Hurrah!' resounded far and wide', according to the official media reports. The assembled crowd jumped up and down and fireworks exploded along the bay as Kim cut the ribbon and held his scissors triumphantly aloft. He toured the new facilities, marvelling at the entirely unremarkable furnishings of the hotel rooms and admiring the sun loungers on the beach. The first lady, Ri Sol Ju, valiantly struggled to remain upright alongside him as her high heels sank into the sand. Finally, he took a seat at the base of an alarmingly steep yellow water slide alongside his wife and daughter, a crystal ash tray and a packet of cigarettes placed discreetly on a small folding table to his side. He pointed and smiled, apparently delighted, as a few intrepid patrons tried out the new ride, coming perilously close to splashing the supreme leader and his family. Even a few years ago, this was the sort of scene that would have elicited widespread ridicule, the latest addition to a series of online memes depicting 'Kim Jong Un Looking at Things', in which the running joke was the North Korean ruler – seemingly the living embodiment of the Team America: World Police caricature – pointing excitedly at mundane objects. But those jokes don't seem quite so funny any more. During his first decade in power, Kim has transformed his small, isolated nation into a de-facto nuclear power, at a terrible cost to his own citizens. He has an arsenal of missiles he claims can reach the US, and a new security alliance with Russia. As an American intelligence assessment concluded earlier this year, 'North Korea is in its strongest strategic position in decades.' Forty-eight hours before his visit to Kalma, on 21 June, the US bombed Iran. A group of B-2 stealth bombers – the same aircraft that had once flown to the Korean Peninsula to demonstrate their ability to reach Pyongyang – dropped 14 massive ordnance penetrators on Iran's main nuclear facilities. The contrast was stark. In North Korea, which had nuclear weapons, Kim was sauntering around his new water park, seemingly safe from the prospect of any imminent US military action. In Iran, which did not, the regime was left to survey the smouldering rubble of its once-prized underground enrichment sites. But the reality was more complicated. 'The easy conclusion is to say that Kim Jong Un is once again vindicated in his pursuit of nuclear weapons because if Iran had nuclear weapons, like he did, they would not have gotten bombed,' said Sydney Seiler, who led negotiations with North Korea as a US special envoy during the Obama administration, and has served in senior roles in the US intelligence community and National Security Council over the past four decades. 'But this has got to send a shock to Kim, because all of a sudden this US president, who everybody said was an isolationist and focused on 'America First', has demonstrated that he is willing to take action overseas.' While the US strikes on Iran undoubtedly cemented the Kim regime's rationale for developing its own nuclear arsenal, Seiler told me, they would also prompt Pyongyang to reassess its prior convictions about Donald Trump's propensity to use force. 'In that sense, Kim might well be a bit back-footed and concerned that he hasn't cleared the safe zone yet.' A mural of Kim Jong Un's glorious predecessors and, respectively, his grandfather and father: Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. Photo by Eric Lafforgue/Art In All Of Us/Corbis via Getty Images North Korea's nuclear programme can be traced back to Kim's grandfather, Kim Il Sung, and the early years of the Cold War. In 1956, eight years after the establishment of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea, as the country is officially known, Pyongyang signed an agreement on joint nuclear research with the Soviet Union, which had conducted its first nuclear test in 1949, ending the US monopoly on the bomb. The Soviet leadership had concerns about emboldening Kim, who invaded South Korea at the start of the Korean War in 1950, with Stalin's blessing. Yet they did not want the North to fall behind the South, which was also pursuing nuclear research and allied to the Soviets' Cold War enemy, the United States. Subscribe to The New Statesman today from only £8.99 per month Subscribe With Soviet help, North Korea began building its first research reactor around 1962-63, shortly after the Cuban Missile Crisis. Kim's determination to achieve his own nuclear capability was affirmed by the international response to neighbouring China's first nuclear test in 1964. 'Kim Il Sung watched Mao Zedong's transformation after that test,' said Seiler. 'He concluded that if one wanted to be recognised and respected globally, you had to pursue this capability.' Beyond prestige, there was also the matter of survival. The US had dropped two atomic bombs on Japan in 1945, and openly weighed the possibility of using nuclear weapons against North Korea during the Korean War five years later, and again during the 1958 Taiwan Strait crisis against China. That same year the US deployed nuclear weapons to South Korea in an attempt to counter the North's conventional capabilities, where they remained until the US withdrew almost all of its overseas-based nuclear weapons at the end of the Cold War. 'Unhappily, we had sold to the rest of the world two ideas,' acknowledged the former US secretary of state Dean Acheson in 1963. 'One was that nuclear weapons were a status symbol. The great powers had them; if you didn't have them, you were a second-rate power. Secondly, if you had them, you could do anything. These were magical weapons.' The allure of these magical weapons strengthened even further for Pyongyang following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, which took with it the Kim regime's main benefactor and source of foreign aid. North Korea had signed the nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty (NPT) in 1985 under Soviet pressure and after Moscow had agreed to help build its own nuclear power plant, which the regime insisted was for peaceful, civilian purposes. Yet the Kims never abandoned their nuclear ambitions. They had witnessed first hand how quickly long-standing autocratic regimes could collapse as a wave of popular uprisings swept across eastern Europe in 1989. These culminated in the fall of the Berlin Wall and the revolution that ousted Nicolae Ceaușescu, the dictatorial communist ruler of Romania, who was overthrown and summarily shot, alongside his wife. 'Every Kim's fear since then has been the Ceaușescu scenario,' said Seiler, 'where the forces of change overthrow the autocratic system from within.' When Kim Jong Il took over after the death of his father in 1994, his early years in power were characterised by a devastating famine that was made worse by the regime's determination to retain control by limiting access to foreign aid organisations. The second Kim doubled down on his father's Songun, or 'military-first' policy. He authorised a covert uranium enrichment programme, which relied on supplies from the Abdul Qadeer Khan network in Pakistan, and experimented with processing spent plutonium fuel rods at the Yongbyon nuclear research facility, which was estimated to have produced enough fissile material for one or two nuclear bombs. The regime also sought to develop its ballistic missile capabilities in cooperation with Iran. North Korea formally withdrew from the NPT in 2003, citing the 'hostile policy' of the US after the then president, George W Bush, grouped the country with Iraq and Iran in his notorious 'axis of evil' speech. Pyongyang conducted its first nuclear test in 2006, which resulted in a pitifully low yield, but it turned out to be just a starting point. Over the next two decades, North Korea pressed ahead with its pursuit of nuclear weapons, and the missiles needed to deliver them. Far from the unpredictable 'rogue state' that is often portrayed, argues Edward Howell, a lecturer at the University of Oxford and author of North Korea and the Global Nuclear Order: When Bad Behaviour Pays, Pyongyang has in fact pursued a coherent strategy, alternating between periods of crisis and compliance as it tests the patience of the international community, and its long-time ally China. 'North Korea has learned from the outcomes of behaving badly as to how and when it should behave in the future,' Howell told me from Seoul. 'This means testing how far it can break international norms pertaining to non-proliferation and non-aggression – the norms that basically guide every sovereign state in international relations – with the aim of reaping benefits and pursuing its ultimate goal of being recognised as a nuclear-armed state.' He calls Pyongyang's approach: 'strategic delinquency'. In 2009, a new song began playing in regular rotation on North Korean radio. The lyrics were printed in soldiers' notebooks, but they were not difficult to remember. 'Tramp, tramp, tramp, the footsteps of our General Kim…/Bringing us closer to a brilliant future/Tramp, tramp, tramp, ah footsteps.' The 'General Kim' in question was soon revealed to be Kim Jong Un, the youngest son of the dynasty's second leader, Kim Jong Il; the elder Kim had suffered a serious stroke in 2008 and was said to be 'gravely ill'. 'Kim Il Sung spent 25 years laying the groundwork for his son to take over as leader,' said Anna Fifield, author of The Great Successor: The Divinely Perfect Destiny of Brilliant Comrade Kim Jong Un. 'Kim Jong Il was steadily promoted up the ranks and the propaganda machine created a narrative around why he was the right person to succeed his father.' But when it came to his own successor, he had no such time. Instead, he began hurriedly promoting his youngest son as his own health deteriorated. 'It was a very hard sell,' Fifield said, 'trying to convince a very hierarchical system that a man in his twenties with no political or military experience, whose only qualification was his surname, should take control of a nuclear-armed totalitarian state.' Still, the regime's propagandists embarked on a concerted campaign to promote the new 'General Kim', claiming that he could fire a gun by the age of three and ride wild horses by six. He was also given a physical makeover. 'Kim Jong Un started wearing suits and glasses that were very reminiscent of his grandfather, Kim Il Sung, and cut his hair into that weird style,' Fifield told me. 'He even developed a gravelly voice – all traits of his grandfather, whose portrait is ubiquitous in North Korea.' The third Kim was widely viewed as young and inexperienced when he came to power in 2012. There were serious doubts among international observers as to whether he would be able to command the respect of the regime elite, and cautious optimism in some quarters that he might follow the Chinese model of reform and opening. He had been educated at a private school in Switzerland and he was known to be a fan of videogames and the Chicago Bulls. The then British foreign secretary, William Hague, ventured that Kim Jong Un's ascension could mark a 'turning point for North Korea' and a new opportunity to return to talks on denuclearisation. But those hopes were swiftly dashed. Kim ruthlessly consolidated power, in 2013 ordering the execution of his uncle and mentor, Jang Song Thaek, who was previously considered the country's second most powerful official. He later boasted to Trump that he had arranged for his uncle's head to be chopped off and displayed on top of his corpse as a warning to others about the consequences of betraying him, although it is unclear if this actually happened. He then had his half-brother Kim Jong Nam assassinated using VX nerve agent at Kuala Lumpur Airport in 2017. Kim also stepped up the pace of nuclear and missile tests, declaring a new policy of Byungjin, or 'parallel advance', which called for simultaneously strengthening the economy and the country's nuclear programme, ignoring that the latter brought international sanctions that stifled the former. According to the regime's narrative, there was no contradiction between the two – North Korea's future and the prospects for economic development could only be secured by the 'treasured sword' of its nuclear arsenal. On a reporting trip to Pyongyang in May 2016 that coincided with Kim's first Workers' Party congress, and took place between the country's fourth and fifth nuclear tests, I was taken to see model factory after model factory. There, model workers assured me, under the supervision of my omnipresent minders, that North Korea merely sought the means to defend itself and the peaceful lives of its citizens against the predations of its hostile foreign enemies. As the younger of the two minders put it, invoking the country's past suffering under Japanese colonial rule and during the Korean War, which North Koreans are told the US and South Korea started: 'We have learned the price of being weak.' The following year, as North Korea tested its first intercontinental ballistic missiles and carried out its sixth nuclear test – while Trump threatened Kim with 'fire and fury like the world has never seen' unless he changed course – I interviewed Pyongyang's ambassador to the UK, Choe Il. I asked whether his country would ever consider giving up its nuclear programme. Choe rattled off a list of countries without nuclear weapons that had been the subject of US military campaigns in recent years, such as Iraq, Afghanistan and Libya, to which he could since have added Syria and Iran. 'The only way to protect our country is that we strengthen our power enough to suppress any enemy countries,' he insisted. 'This is a lesson we feel in our bones.' There is a lie at the heart of Pyongyang's rationale for its nuclear weapons as it claims to be defending the country against its foreign enemies. In truth, as the ruling elite knows, there is no imminent threat to North Korea's security. There is no imperialist army massing at the gates. The Kim regime's main priority is, as it always has been, the survival of the Kim regime, not the lives of its citizens. North Korea's nuclear arsenal gives the ruling dynasty power, prestige and a powerful deterrent against any external efforts to provoke regime change. So, despite his brief foray into diplomacy with Trump in 2018 and 2019, it seems unlikely Kim was ever seriously contemplating an end to his nuclear programme. When those negotiations petered out, with Trump cutting short their summit in Hanoi, Kim retreated into his previous isolation, sealing the country's borders completely at the start of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 as he embarked on a renewed crackdown on potential threats to the regime's domestic control. 'I don't think people understand how massively the Covid pandemic changed the situation,' Fyodor Tertitskiy, a Seoul-based scholar of North Korea and author of Accidental Tyrant: The Life of Kim Il Sung, told me. 'I think we entered a new age in 2020.' The government introduced a new law against 'reactionary thought and culture', which included punishments for citizens caught using South Korean slang terms. There were reports of people being executed for watching and sharing South Korean movies and pop music. Kim then led his generals on horseback to the snow-capped summit of Mount Paektu, where he invoked his grandfather's 'indefatigable revolutionary spirit' and vowed to defeat the 'unprecedented blockade and pressure imposed by the imperialists'. For good measure, he severed all contact with Seoul and had the inter-Korean liaison office near the border with South Korea blown up. Then Kim was handed an unexpected breakthrough: Russia invaded Ukraine. The few resources he had to offer were suddenly in demand. North Korea shipped millions of artillery rounds to Russia, along with short-range missiles and an estimated 10,000-12,000 troops. In return, the regime received a badly needed influx of hard cash, and perhaps also technical assistance with its long-range missile and nuclear programmes. After hosting Kim at the Vostochny Cosmodrome in the Russian far east in September 2023, Vladimir Putin was asked whether Russia would now help North Korea to build its own satellites. He replied: 'That's why we came here.' Two months later, after two previous failures, North Korea successfully launched its first reconnaissance satellite. The following June, Kim welcomed Putin to Pyongyang, where they took turns driving each other around, at speed, in the new Russian limousine the Russian leader had just presented to him. Then they signed a mutual defence pact that resurrected the earlier Cold War treaty between North Korea and the Soviet Union, cementing their new alliance and reducing Pyongyang's dependence on Beijing. 'Kim's dream would be to be able to play off Russia and China against each other, recreating the model from the late Cold War and enabling North Korea to milk both cows,' Tertitskiy explained. 'That was the golden age for the regime, and the darkest era for its people.' Presumably to underline his new friendship with Moscow, Kim was filmed meeting Russia's ambassador to North Korea at his new tourist resort in June, shaking hands by the water slide. Two weeks later, he hosted Russia's foreign minister, Sergei Lavrov, onboard his yacht in Wonsan, where he reiterated his unconditional support for Putin's war on Ukraine. Lavrov said Russia understood North Korea's need for its nuclear programme, effectively recognising its status as a nuclear power. The US strikes on Iran will only intensify the Kim regime's determination to expand and advance its nuclear arsenal. Informed by hindsight, Sydney Seiler told me of his long personal history of observing North Korea's diplomatic negotiations: 'I can say with a high degree of confidence that none of those were real, authentic pursuits of diplomacy.' Rather, he observed a 'pattern of behaviour, with each major period of engagement coming to an end after about a year, or 18 months, and returning to the status quo ante with the weapons programme ending up being stronger at the end than it was going into it'. With Trump back in power, Kim may be preparing to embark on a new cycle of diplomacy, perhaps to see what he can extract from a president who has gushed over the 'beautiful letters' the two men exchanged in 2018 and how they 'fell in love'. A few days after I spoke to Seiler, Kim Jong Un's sister Kim Yo Jong announced that further talks might indeed be possible, but only if the US accepted North Korea as a 'nuclear weapons state'. Having finally secured its 'magical weapons', Pyongyang has no intention of giving them up. [See also: Disdain and apathy in Washington DC] Related
Daily Mirror
6 hours ago
- Daily Mirror
UK 'seaside town' without a beach has 20C lido, arcade and cable cars
The town may be 70 miles from the nearest seaside, but the riverside setting and classic attractions give it the feel of a British coastal town - and you can still go for a dip. Amusement arcades, fish and chip shops and quirky independents give Matlock Bath a coastal town feel ( Photos by R A Kearton via Getty Images) A trip to the seaside is always a fun day out, but depending on where you live, there isn't always a coastal town close by. If you're in the Midlands, you're in luck - there is a unique town in Derbyshire that offers all the charms Brits adore about coastal visits - with one exception. Matlock Bath boasts great fish and chip shops, amusement arcades and even a picturesque waterside promenade, but it lacks a beach. Despite being 70 miles from the sea, this Midlands town, with its riverside location and classic attractions, boasts a similar vibe to seaside towns. READ MORE: {{title}} Visitors can still enjoy a swim, thanks to the warm waters of the Derbyshire spa town's historic thermal springs, which are accessible at the New Bath Hotel and Spa's restored lido. The outdoor pool, tucked near the wildcat crafts of the Derbyshire Dales, is filled with naturally mineral-rich thermal spring water flowing at a comfortable 19.8°C - a more pleasant temperature than the beaches at Blackpool or Weston-super-Mare, reports Birmingham Live. The best way to discover the 'seaside town' of Matlock Bath is by water ( Anuj Mishra) It was following the discovery of Matlock Bath's springs in the 17th century that the town became somewhat of a tourist magnet. Today, a host of attractions cater to visiting families, including Gulliver's Kingdom theme park, the 60-acre Heights of Abraham hilltop park, accessible via cable car, the Victorian aquarium, and traditional amusement arcades scattered along the promenade. Old-fashioned shops selling fudge, antiques, ice creams and gifts contribute to the seaside atmosphere. The Heights of Abraham hilltop park is home to adventure playgrounds, hidden caves and a restaurant - all reached by cable car ( Heights of Abraham) For those seeking a peaceful retreat, the opposite bank of the river Derwent is an ideal location, with High Tor's sheer cliff attracting more walkers and climbers than tourists. Giddy Edge, a winding path along the cliff edge, can also be found here. Further afield, you'll find Cromford Mills, the world's first water-powered cotton spinning mill, and the magnificent National Trust manor house of Kedleston Hall, its interior designed to reflect the grandeur of ancient Greece and Rome.
Wales Online
6 hours ago
- Wales Online
Colourful Welsh town is one of the best places in the UK for an ice cream by the sea
Colourful Welsh town is one of the best places in the UK for an ice cream by the sea We love a coastal town, especially one with colourful houses, a boutique hotel, and some of the best ice cream in Wales. We love a coastal town, especially one with colourful houses, a boutique hotel, and some of the best ice cream in Wales. (Image: Michael Roberts via Getty Images) We love a coastal town, especially one with colourful houses, a boutique hotel, and some of the best ice cream in Wales. Pretty Aberaeron on the Ceredigion coast is one of the loveliest seaside escapes in Wales, known for its colourful Georgian-style houses and boat-filled harbour. Aberaeron means "mouth of the Aeron" in Welsh, and the name has some serious bite. It comes from the Middle Welsh word aer, meaning 'slaughter.' Local lore says that it traces back to a Welsh god of war named Aeron, which gives the town an unexpectedly fierce origin story. Fast forward to the early 1800s, and this sleepy stretch of coastline was about to get a serious glow-up. Before 1800, there wasn't much here, no town, no harbour, no hustle. That all changed when the ambitious and forward-thinking Reverend Alban Thomas Jones Gwynne got to work in 1805, designing one of the very first planned towns in all of Wales. It's one of the first planned towns in all of Wales. (Image: Portia Jones ) He didn't just sketch out some streets and call it a day. He built a handsome harbour, one that quickly became the heart of the town. It buzzed with shipbuilding, trade, and industry throughout the 19th century. The harbour didn't just support commerce; it shaped the coastal community. A row of houses for the workmen and a school popped up along the northern edge, but both were eventually claimed by the sea, swept away by the same choppy waters that had made the town thrive. Even as steamships chugged up and down the coast into the 1920s, Aberaeron's harbour stayed busy. Today, it's a peaceful half-tide haven with a candy coloured strip of buildings where sailboats and little fishing vessels bob gently in the estuary. The small town recently had a national spotlight when its harbour front hotel, the Harbourmaster, was crowned hotel of the year 2025 by the Sunday Times for its 'old splash of style and substance" The deep blue landmark hotel is no stranger to accolades. It has won several awards, including the Good Hotel Guide's César Award for Best Hotel in Wales in 2024. First opened as a hotel in 2002, the independently owned hotel features 13 maritime-themed rooms spread over three historic harbour-side buildings, which were originally used as a home and office for the Harbourmaster. Seven original rooms in the former Harbourmaster's residence are accessed via a spiral staircase and command spectacular sea or harbour views with features including rolltop tubs or balconies. The top-floor suite is particularly sought after. Crowned Wales hotel of the year by the Sunday Times for its 'old splash of style and substance,' this striking boutique coastal hotel overlooks the Georgian quayside in Aberaeron. (Image: Portia Jones ) Along with coastal chic rooms, the on-site restaurant, described by the Sunday Times as offering "unfussy but bang-on flavours," is a real highlight. As you'd expect from a dining room within reach of the local fishing fleet, it strongly emphasises locally caught seafood dishes, such as Cardigan Bay shellfish, Welsh Beer-Battered Haddock, and Cardigan Bay Crab Linguine. There's also plenty of other local produce, including Welsh lamb and beef sirloin, Ammanford's Coaltown coffee and Welsh spirits, beers and wine from vines in the nearby Llaethliw vineyard. Charcuterie, served daily in the afternoon, is a must-try. It's loaded with cured meats, smoked salmon, Black Bomber cheese profiteroles, and olives. The Harbourmaster in Aberaeron (Image: Harbourmaster Hotel) Nearby, you'll find another spot praised by the Sunday Times, The Hive, named in The Times' list of the 41 best places for Ice Cream in the UK. The Orange-coloured Hive is also home to the legendary Honey Ice Cream, which is made on-site by master ice cream makers Kevin and Mateusz. This distinctive, creamy ice cream is hands down my favourite ice cream in all of Wales. One scoop, and you'll see why it has a cult following. The Hive is home to the legendary Honey Ice Cream (Image: Portia Jones ) Just across the harbour, Y Seler plates up big views and bold flavours. One of Aberaeron's top-rated spots, it's all about chilled vibes and standout seafood, Carmarthenshire mussels, pan-seared scallops, cod, shrimp, and sea bass all make a regular appearance. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here. There's plenty of walking to be done here, as the town is right on the Wales Coast Path and the Ceredigion Coast Path, one of the most rewarding sections of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path. Stretching for 60 glorious miles between Ynyslas and Cardigan, it offers some of the most varied terrain and scenery on the entire route, ranging from soft dunes and sandy coves to craggy cliffs and windswept headlands. This waymarked path can be walked in seven manageable sections, each ending in a village or town with accommodation and transport options. You can take on the full route over a week or choose shorter sections like New Quay to Aberaeron or the 11.7-mile stretch from Cardigan to Aberporth. For hiking, the Ceredigion Coast Path is one of the most rewarding sections of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path (Image: Portia Jones ) The section of the Ceredigion Coast Path between New Quay and Aberaeron is one of the most popular stretches and includes one of Dylan Thomas's favourite walks, along the beach between the town and his wartime home at Llanina. The 6.5-mile route offers epic sea views, opportunities to spot dolphins and other wildlife, and access to beaches and a cove. It passes by the Afon Drywi and its waterfall at Cwm Buwch, and a striking sculpture of a maiden blowing a kiss. Wildlife boat trips are another big draw in the area. Ceredigion's coast is well-known for abundant wildlife, including the famous Cardigan Bay bottlenose dolphin pods and Atlantic Grey seals. Seals on the Ceredigion coastline (Image: Portia Jones ) Just down the road, you can hop on a guided dolphin-watching boat trip, leaving from the picturesque fishing village of New Quay with Seamor dolphin watching trips. As you bounce along the waves, you can learn about the local history, geology and wildlife from the marine biologist guides and knowledgeable skippers who will also scan the shoreline for resident dolphins to point out. A further drive on are budget-friendly boat trips with local pros, 'A Bay to Remember'. Departing from St Dogmaels, this hour-long trip wizzes you around the shore on high-speed RHIBs, where your knowledgeable skipper will keep their eyes peeled for wildlife. On this fast boat trip, you'll likely spot dolphins and seabirds and be taken to secluded, pebbled bays where Atlantic grey seals lounge lazily on the rocks. The villa designed by John Nash in the 1790s at Llanerchaeron, Ceredigion, Wales. (Image: ©National Trust Images/Arnhel de Serra) Nearby is Llanerchaeron Georgian villa and gardens, a gentry estate largely unchanged since the 18th century. Built by John Nash in the mid-1790s, Llanerchaeron is the most complete example of the architect's early work. Set in the beautiful Dyffryn Aeron, a few miles east of Aberaeron, the estate has survived virtually unaltered. Once a self-sufficient entity with its own dairy, laundry and brewery, it is owned by the National Trust and used as a working organic farm. The two original walled gardens with their early greenhouses and amazing underground heating have been restored and are now used to grow fruit and herbs. Extensive walks thread through the parkland and estate, where you can spot sheep, pigs, and Welsh black cattle or wander around artefacts left by the estate's last resident 25 years ago. Article continues below
