Merak review: An authentic Balkan experience for meat lovers in Dubai

The National

07-02-2025

Merak, which opened in September in JBR's DoubleTree by Hilton hotel, offers a touch of the unusual to Dubai's thriving gastronomy scene. The emirate is synonymous with modernity, something that's reflected within its dining culture. Throw a bit of experimentation in there and you're well on your way to summarising a city now established as one of the food capitals of the world. From daal dishes lined with real 24k gold to chocolate cake infused with mushrooms, diners here are accustomed to expecting the unexpected … and seeing these combinations work, too. But Merak is different. Merak is old school, and in the best possible way, for its culture, for the Balkans. Merak, which translates to a term used to describe the feeling of delight one feels when trying or experiencing something new, is a venue that lives up to its name. The concept is a simple one: a family restaurant featuring recipes passed down by generations for all to enjoy in a sociable setting. With a custom-built butchery and smoke room, the venue presents a homely, European vibe that combines eloquently with the Dubai surroundings it finds itself in. There's live music, with a traditional violinist playing during our visit and ample space to sit either inside or out. Opting to sit outside and take in the JBR views, my dining partner and I are welcomed by our knowledgeable server, Freeman, whose sense of pride and knowledge is as infectious as it is hunger-inducing. It's with this backdrop that we choose to let Freeman recommend his favourite dishes, and we can't wait to get stuck in. Merak's menu is reflective of the rich history of the Balkans, drawing on an eclectic range of flavours from the various nationalities that make up this unique region. First up, my dining partner and I are treated to a serving of Ottoman history with a bowl of Begova soup (Dh50). This, Freeman explains, is a dish found throughout the Balkan region and, while there's an element of rivalry between nations over who can claim ownership of it, it is thought to have originated in what is now Istanbul – at the heart of the Ottoman Empire. The soup is made up of chicken and okra with the addition of root vegetables and herbs, served alongside a basket of home-made breads. It is a beautiful opener, one that's steeped in history and based on a recipe that's been passed down from generation to generation. It sets a wonderful tone for the evening ahead of us, one that celebrates Balkan cuisine and culture. Next up, we have the mixed deli platter (Dh160) which showcases a selection of cold cut meats served alongside ajvar (a traditional pepper spread), kajmak butter, Shopska salad (a Balkan variation of a Greek salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and feta), and Olivye salad (a Russian salad of boiled potatoes, carrot, and eggs mixed with pickles, ham, and peas). Not only is this an authentic and traditional starter, packed with flavours from across the Balkans, but it's also incredibly sociable. The large, colourful platter dominates the table and allows my dining partner and I to pick at whatever tickles our fancy. Now thoroughly buying in to the setting we find ourselves in, it's time for our main course, which is a serving of sharska pljeskavica (a Macedonian beef burger stuffed with cheese for Dh78) for me and grilled chicken breast served with iceberg lettuce (Dh95) for my dining partner. A nice touch to this is that Freeman leaves what's left of the plates from the mixed deli platter on the table, meaning we can tuck into our mains and complement the selection of salads with the meat. For dessert, it's an easy choice for both of us: baklava (Dh45), a stalwart of Ottoman cuisine to round off an evening that pays homage to this unique culture. The filo pastry is beautifully delicate while the walnut and syrup leaves that perfect sweet taste to end the evening with a brilliantly satisfying finale. Merak's concept is admittedly a simple one but its simplicity is precisely the point. Southern European flavours that provide a comforting, earthly feel that makes this restaurant stand out from some of its more flamboyant Dubai competitors. Its one downside is perhaps an obvious one: this isn't a venue for vegans or vegetarians. Yes, it's not a meat-only menu and there are options available, but the core concept of Merak is meat-focused and to visit without buying into this would be to visit and not get the best out of it. The standout dish at Merak is undoubtedly the mixed deli platter. It's on the more expensive end of the starter list but it's worth the money as nothing encapsulates the Balkan concept of the restaurant better. The selection of cured meats, the salads that pay homage to the region, and the sociable nature of a large sharing platter make it a must. It's also got the aesthetic appeal, for those after Instagram-worthy pictures. As for what I'd avoid, it would be the penne Arrabiata (Dh62) or the Mediterranean risotto (Dh179). Not that these two dishes aren't delicious. It just seems like a waste to visit a restaurant with such a niche cultural ethos behind it only to order dishes that are not only Italian but also readily available the world over. A three-course meal at Merak can cost between Dh111 and Dh470. On the high end of the price spectrum lie the mixed deli platter (Dh160) as a sharing starter; the Merak mix grill roll (Dh260) as a sharing main course; and the Merak cheesecake (Dh50) for dessert. The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are fried cauliflower with tahini sauce and pomegranate molasses (Dh36), home-made pastry served with spinach and cheese (Dh40) and baked apple served with cinnamon, walnuts and cream (Dh35). Joe Matta is Merak's executive chef. From Lebanon, he says beef brisket is his favourite ingredient to cook with. 'Its versatility is unmatched and I've incorporated it into menus using a variety of techniques,' he says. 'I've prepared dishes with brisket that are smoked, cured, slow-cooked, grilled, roasted, confit and sous-vide, showcasing its incredible adaptability and depth of flavour.' Asked about his cooking style, chef Matta describes it as 'fresh and innovative' as he focuses on 'combining traditional tastes with modern gastronomy'. 'We believe in simplicity, quality, and respect for the ingredients we use,' he explains. 'Every dish tells a story, blending heritage with modern culinary techniques. For vegetarians, he suggests a selection of light bites such as Shopska salad, tzatziki, spicy hummus, green bell peppers, cheese and spinach bureks, and oven-baked feta. For vegans, his nod goes to the spicy hummus and green bell peppers. Like my dining partner and I, chef Matta's go-to starter suggestion is the mixed deli platter while his tip for a healthy choice is the Fattoush salad. For meat-lovers, he suggests this is your go-to restaurant, with cold cuts, steaks, home-made sausages, short ribs, roasted lamb and many more such dishes available. His suggestion for seafood-enthusiasts is the Mediterranean risotto, prepared paella-style with prawns, salmon and sea bass. For desserts, his top tip is the baklava. Merak is located in the Double Tree by Hilton, JBR – The Walk, in Dubai. It is open from noon to 1am on Mondays, noon to midnight Tuesday to Thursday, noon to 3am Friday to Saturday, and noon to midnight on Sundays. Tables can be booked by calling 04 325 1660. This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant