Sikkim—The floral paradise of India

Time of India

12-05-2025

Mondreeta is a national-level swimmer and a world-record-holding mountaineer. Currently, as Vice President of TOGA, Ministry of Tourism & Culture, Government of India, she serves as an Indian Ambassador to foreign delegates. LESS ... MORE
During my mountaineering course, I had visited Sikkim, but only to traverse the trail leading to the Kanchenjunga Base Camp. Even then, I was captivated by its ethereal beauty and vowed to return. My next opportunity arrived when I drove from New Jalpaiguri to Gangtok, the vibrant capital of East Sikkim.
Sikkim is a land divided into four distinct zones—North, South, East, and West—each offering its own breathtaking landscapes and experiences. The drive to Gangtok was enchanting, winding alongside the Teesta River through dense pine and bamboo forests. I stationed myself in a hotel on MG Road, the picturesque Mall Road, which is a pedestrian-only promenade lined with chic shops, cosy cafés, luxurious hotels, and, most importantly, panoramic views of the majestic Himalayas. Sikkim struck me as the cleanest, most meticulously maintained state I had ever visited.
Upon my arrival, the hotel manager informed me that the International Flower Festival was underway. Intrigued, I decided to visit. To my astonishment, the festival sprawled across vast acres, with an overwhelming array of plants and flowers—some planted in the earth, others showcased in pots. The sheer diversity was staggering: over 30 types of rhododendrons, 600 varieties of orchids, 150 kinds of gladioli, and much more. Sikkim boasts over 5,000 species of flowering plants, 515 rare orchids, 60 primula species, 36 rhododendron species, 11 oak varieties, 23 bamboo species, 16 conifer species, and 362 varieties of ferns.
Participants from countries as far as the USA, UK, Russia, Netherlands, Australia, Spain, Canada, Austria, France, Germany, and Switzerland had converged to celebrate this floral extravaganza. The valley resembled a garden from paradise—an otherworldly vision that compelled me to spend the entire day soaking in nature's vibrant artistry, attempting to capture its splendour through my camera lens.
Gangtok: Gateway to Sikkim's spiritual and scenic wonders
Over the next couple of days, I explored Gangtok's rich cultural and natural heritage. I visited the Rumtek Monastery, renowned for its stunning architecture, and the Enchey Monastery, a spiritual haven. From Tashi's Viewpoint, I took in the panoramic vista of the Himalayas, including the towering Kanchenjunga. The tranquil Tsomgo Lake, a glacial gem nestled at a high altitude, shimmered like a celestial mirror.
A special permit granted me access to Nathula Pass, a historic trade route now famed for its breathtaking views and the revered Baba Mandir, dedicated to a Sikh soldier who is regarded as a divine guardian of the region.
North Sikkim: The road to heaven on earth
Next, I ventured to North Sikkim, a region where the landscape grows increasingly rugged and otherworldly. I set off for Lachen, a quaint mountain town at 8,300 feet, a 4.5-hour drive from Gangtok. The temperature dipped to a chilling 5–6°C at night.
Early the next morning, I began the journey to the legendary Gurudongmar Lake, 64 km away, passing through Lachung and the Yumthang Valley of Flowers—the ultimate floral sanctuary of Sikkim.
As the ascent steepened, the lush green forest gradually gave way to dense thickets of rhododendrons. Suddenly, the greenery vanished, and the landscape exploded into a kaleidoscope of colours. Giant clusters of primulas, poppies, irises, and other blossoms blanketed the slopes, transforming the valley into a mesmerising sea of flowers. The scene was surreal, as if a celestial artist had scattered rainbow hues across the earth.
Upon reaching the valley, the panoramic vista of floral meadows took my breath away. A tributary of the Teesta River meandered along the valley's edge, adding a melodic murmur to the spectacle. I walked to the river, crossed over to the hot spring on the other side, and indulged in a rejuvenating mineral bath—an invigorating balm against the mountain chill.
The drive from Yumthang Valley to Gurudongmar Lake was a heart-thumping adventure, as the road clung to the edge of snow-capped peaks. Upon arrival, I was greeted by warm-hearted soldiers who welcomed me with hot tea.
Encircled by towering snow peaks, Gurudongmar Lake gleamed like a colossal mirror, its still waters reflecting the cloud-draped mountains. Colourful Tibetan prayer flags fluttered around the lake, infusing the air with a sense of reverence and tranquillity. To the left of the lake, a small stream cascaded forth—the nascent Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim. On the return journey, I chose to halt at Lachung instead of Lachen.
West Sikkim: A tapestry of monasteries and waterfalls
From North Sikkim, I made my way to West Sikkim, descending to Pelling, a serene hamlet nestled at the foothills of Kanchenjunga. I stayed at a hotel on Pelling's helipad, an ideal vantage point to gaze at the snow-clad peaks.
My exploration commenced with the 17th-century Sanga Choling Monastery, offering panoramic views of the mountains, followed by the Pemayangtse Monastery, adorned with exquisite walls and murals and a gold-plated statue of Guru Padmasambhava, my spiritual teacher.
Beyond the monastery stood the ruins of the Rabdentse Palace, once a royal seat and now a poignant reminder of Sikkim's storied past.
Other highlights included the Pelling Skywalk, India's first glass skywalk, and the spellbinding Kanchenjunga Falls. But the most spiritually uplifting experience was visiting the sacred Khecheopidi Lake, also known as the 'Wish-Fulfilling Lake.'
According to legend, the goddess Tara meditated atop a mountain and stepped down, leaving an imprint of her left foot, which later filled with rainwater to form the lake. The right foot imprint, located 10 km away, also became a lake. Astonishingly, when viewed from above, Khecheopidi Lake resembles a perfect footprint. Its waters are impeccably clean, as birds dutifully pick up any fallen leaves, preserving its sanctity.
Nearby, the Dudhsagar Waterfall cascades down the rocks in a frothy, milky torrent, adding yet another element of surreal beauty to the landscape.
South Sikkim: The spiritual and scenic haven
My final destination was South Sikkim. From Pelling, I drove to Ravangla, a picturesque town perched on a ridge. I spent a night at the Buddha Park, an oasis of lush gardens and tranquil pathways, leading up to a colossal bronze statue of Buddha.
The next day, as I descended to Namchi, a breathtaking sight greeted me from afar—the world's tallest statue of Guru Padmasambhava, standing at a staggering 135 feet atop Samdruptse Hill. White Tibetan prayer flags fluttered along the path, adding to the aura of serenity.
In Namchi, I visited Char Dham, a spiritual complex atop Solophok Hill, featuring miniature replicas of India's four sacred pilgrimage sites—Badrinath, Dwarka, Puri, and Rameshwaram—encircling a 108-foot-tall statue of Lord Shiva with the Ganga cascading from his crown, surrounded by 12 Jyotirlingas.
Sikkim: The eternal symphony of nature and culture
Beyond the tourist spots, the very roads of Sikkim are a visual symphony—serpentine paths winding through dense forests, waterfalls tumbling down mossy cliffs, and verdant valleys cradling the Teesta River and its tributaries. The air is fragrant with the scent of blooming flowers, and the warmth of the Sikkimese people adds to the allure.
The journey was flavoured by the region's delectable cuisine—steaming momos, hearty bowls of thukpa, tangy sisnoo soup, fermented gundruk, and rich chhurpi cheese—all savoured amid the backdrop of Sikkim's unmatched natural splendour.
To this day, my Sikkim sojourn remains one of the most unforgettable chapters of my Himalayan odyssey—a floral paradise that truly felt like a slice of heaven on earth.
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Views expressed above are the author's own.