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Korean-style boiled fish stew with an asparagus salad

Korean-style boiled fish stew with an asparagus salad

The Guardian11-06-2025
When we first came across today's main course, described in Chang Sun-Young's classic A Korean Mother's Cooking Notes as 'hard-boiled mackerel', we were as sceptical as we were intrigued. While the idea went against every fish-cooking mantra we knew, a large, fatty fish actually stands up rather well to a fairly long boil, and the process firms it up nicely, so you can pick up chunks of fish while leaving the bones (essential to give body and flavour to the broth) in the bowl. Our all-time favourite version of this dish was at the now defunct Jeju Hang restaurant in Seoul, where they served it with plump, broth-imbued half-moons of Korean radish and a condiment of fermented cutlass fish innards, as well as perfectly steamed rice. The salad, meanwhile, is a seasonal take on one of Jeju Hang's side dishes (the original used seaweed instead of asparagus), and its mild, nutty, herbaceous flavour is the perfect foil to the sweet, spicy fish.
Source your mackerel carefully, because many UK fisheries are now so overfished as to be unconscionable – the ones we use are line-caught in the southwest, which is one of the UK's few remaining sustainable mackerel fisheries; otherwise, use big fat herrings instead. Most large supermarkets sell gochujang (Korean fermented chilli paste) nowadays, while doenjang (Korean soybean paste) and gochugaru (Korean chilli powder) can both be found in any Asian supermarket (the doenjang can, at a pinch, be replaced with miso). As for the kelp, while it's edible and very tasty, its main purpose is to impart umami to the broth and fish. Steamed rice is a non-negotiable alongside.
Prep 20 minCook 30 minServes 4
For the seasoning sauce120g soy sauce
120g mirin
40g peeled garlic (about six or seven cloves), roughly chopped
10g ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
15g doenjang15g gochujang30g fish sauce
15g gochugaru
For the fish1 mooli, peeled and cut into 2cm-thick rounds (about 500g)
2 small onions, peeled and thinly sliced (about 250g)
2 large sustainably-sourced mackerel, or herring, heads and guts removed, then cut across the bone into large chunks (800g-1kg net weight)10g kelp (kombu), or about ½ standard sheet
A few finely sliced spring onions, to serve
Steamed rice, to serve
First make the seasoning sauce. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz smooth.
Lay the mooli rounds in a single layer in a wide, shallow saucepan, then layer the sliced onion, fish and seaweed on top. Pour the seasoning sauce over the whole lot, then add enough water just to cover the fish. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat so the broth is at a lively simmer, and cook for 20-25 minutes, regularly basting the fish, until the fish is cooked through, the mooli is tender and the sauce is reduced.
Ladle into bowls, garnish with a handful of sliced spring onions and serve with steamed rice.
Prep 10 minPress 15-30 minCook 20 minServes 4
½ small block firm tofu (about 140g)50g pine nuts (about 3 tbsp), plus extra for serving1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tsp readymade English mustard
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tsp honey2 red dates, pitted and roughly chopped (optional but recommended)2-3 tbsp dashi broth, or waterSalt and black pepper2 bunches asparagus (English, ideally), woody stems removed (about 500g net)
Wrap the tofu in kitchen paper or muslin, put a heavy object on top (a can of beans will do) and leave for 15-30 minutes, to press out some of the moisture – the tofu needs to be very dry for this dish.
Toast the pine nuts in a dry frying pan, tossing them continuously, for three or four minutes, until nicely golden brown all over and the kitchen is filled with the intoxicating aroma of freshly roasted nuts. Tip the nuts into a mortar or food processor, then grind to a powder. Roughly chop or crumble the tofu, add it to the mortar or processor, then mash until smooth.
Add the garlic, mustard, vinegar, honey and red dates, if using, then pound or process again until smooth. Add just enough dashi (or water) to loosen the mix to a thick, creamy dressing, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
Cook the asparagus in a pan of salted boiling water for about three minutes, so the spears are cooked but still have some bite to them, then drain and refresh under cold water. Drain again and dry on a clean tea towel or kitchen paper.
Arrange the asparagus on a platter, spoon over the tofu dressing, and serve sprinkled with a few extra toasted pine nuts, if you like.
Kyu Jeong Jeon and Duncan Robertson are chefs/co-owners of Bokman and Dongnae, both in Bristol
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The Seoul 'convenience stores' fighting loneliness
The Seoul 'convenience stores' fighting loneliness

BBC News

time7 days ago

  • BBC News

The Seoul 'convenience stores' fighting loneliness

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Five delicious Italian recipes straight from Nonna's cookbook
Five delicious Italian recipes straight from Nonna's cookbook

Daily Mail​

time02-08-2025

  • Daily Mail​

Five delicious Italian recipes straight from Nonna's cookbook

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Let the tomatoes steam in their juices for about 4 minutes, then add the clams, cover again and cook for a minute or so. Add a scant ladle of pasta water to the pan and cook until the clams are open – discard any that aren't. Use a slotted spoon to remove some of the clams and set aside. 4 Drain the pasta, add it to the pan, stirring until the sauce thickens. Divide between dinner plates and add the reserved clams, plus a sprinkling of parsley leaves. Serve immediately. NINETTE Born 1935, Mallorca, Spain 'My mother taught me how to make this dish and it's one that I have reverted to again and again because I find it incredibly adaptable. You can eat the cod warm and serve for a family dinner or it can be eaten the next day with a salad. This way it serves as a good dish throughout the year, as long as you can find the fish and a good-quality one at that. Another important element of the dish is the vinegar. I use a vinegar that is Chardonnay and very high quality from France, but any good-quality white-wine vinegar will work here. My cooking has an element of finesse because for my most formative years I lived in France and loved all things French. The food, the culture, all of it was my own for many years before we moved back to Mallorca. My family owned and ran a bar while we lived in France, so I was raised with an element of 'Frenchness' that I suppose I have never really shaken.' NINETTE'S BACALAO ESCABECHE AL FINO (Spanish Cod Escabeche) This is a showstopper that tastes slightly pickled, and is surprisingly quick and easy to conjure up. 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Add the bay leaves, ½ tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper, then gently simmer for about 30 minutes until very soft. 4 Meanwhile, combine the garlic and tomatoes in a bowl. When the onions are ready, add the tomato and garlic blend to the onions and cook for a minute or so until the mixture has infused with the onions, then follow up with the vinegar. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then remove from the heat. 5 Put the cod on a serving platter, top with the onion mixture and serve. SOULA Born 1946, Peloponnese, Greece 'Lots of people aren't aware that spanakorizo is an interesting combination not only because it tastes good. Spinach is difficult for the human body to digest, but the rice and lemon that we add to it helps the body to absorb the iron. My mother was an excellent cook, and she told me this many years ago. I lived in America for most of my adult life but have returned to Greece for the weather and the good produce. I like to go to my local laiki (market) every Thursday – it's an outing that happens ritually every week. I also tend to go for walks in the surrounding olive groves every day, leaving my brother, whom I live with, to sleep in while I get out and about to catch up with friends or start on the day's chores. I find that what is most important in life is to keep moving. Even when things get tough, we must put one foot in front of the other and keep walking.' SOULA'S SPANAKORIZO (Greek Rice and Spinach Risotto) This dish is a kind of risotto, but in true Greek style the vegetables are the stars and it's much less fussy to make than a traditional Italian version – who has time for all that hovering and stirring? 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We were seven children in total and my brothers were the only ones of us that were allowed to venture out. I didn't know any different and this was the norm, so I never questioned it.' LATIFA'S LABLEBI (Tunisian Chickpea Soup) Lablebi is a staple of Tunisian cuisine, although its origins can also be linked to the Ottoman occupation of Tunis in the 1600s, when chickpeas were served to Ottoman soldiers as a thrifty and filling meal. It's hot, hearty and the perfect go-to recipe if you ever feel a cold coming on. This recipe is for those well versed in spice. If you want a mellower lablebi, halve or even quarter the harissa quantity and then add more at the end if you need it, along with the other toppings. 500g dried chickpeas 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 70ml olive oil ½ bulb of garlic, cloves thinly sliced ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tbsp harissa, plus extra to serve ½ tbsp sea salt 4-6 slices of days-old bread TO SERVE capers poached or boiled eggs good-quality tinned tuna 1 The day before you want to make the lablebi, put the chickpeas in a large bowl, add half the bicarbonate of soda, cover with water and leave to soak overnight. 2 The next day, drain the chickpeas, then add to a large saucepan with 2 litres of water. Put over a high heat and start to bring to the boil as you add the remaining bicarbonate of soda followed by the oil, garlic, pepper, cumin, turmeric and harissa. 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Some people don't use garlic in this béchamel, or else they use it to flavour it slightly and then take it out. Being from the south, I keep the garlic in. I've been cooking for 63 years. When I was a young girl we would be taught by our mothers how to get by in the kitchen in order to be able to satisfy our future husbands. What I've learnt in these six decades in the kitchen is that delicious food really needs a certain dedication of time. It's difficult for young people now to make something truly satisfying because everything's always done in such a rush. The truth is, time is necessary for food to be good; it's an essential pause in the day to treat oneself.' MARYSE'S COURGETTE GRATIN FROM THE CAMARGUE, SOUTHERN FRANCE This recipe can be found all over the south of France. While it's baked in a béchamel sauce along with added butter and cheese (the latter helps the dish achieve the all-important golden crust that is essential to a gratin), this courgette bake is light, and it pairs perfectly with a meatier main – or perhaps even just a green salad on a summer's day. SERVES 4 as a main, 6 as a side 800g courgettes, sliced into 5mm rounds 40g Emmental, finely grated For the béchamel 4 tbsp plain flour 390ml whole milk, plus another 6 tbsp 1 tbsp sunflower oil 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1½ tsp flaky sea salt 4 tbsp double cream 10g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing freshly ground white or black pepper 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6 and grease a casserole dish (alternatively a roughly 25cm x 32cm baking dish or baking tray) generously with butter. 2 Prepare a steamer (or steamer basket over a saucepan of hot water) and steam the courgette slices for 6 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, start preparing the béchamel. Combine the flour with 90ml of the milk in a small bowl. Whisk until smooth. 4 When the courgettes have steamed (they should be slightly softened at this stage but still possess a bit of bite), drain them in a colander and leave to dry. 5 Heat the sunflower oil in the same saucepan over a low to medium heat and fry the garlic, taking care to stop before it begins to brown. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool for a minute, then add the remaining milk to the pan, along with the salt and a grind of white or black pepper. Return to a low to medium heat. Now add the flour-and-milk mixture and stir like crazy with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes until you have a smooth and viscous béchamel sauce. You don't want it to be very thick – rather a pourable consistency, like cream. Remove from the heat and add the cream and butter, stirring until combined. 6 Put the courgettes in your chosen baking dish. You don't need to arrange them delicately in layers (although you can if you want to go for a 'fancy' look). Maryse just tips them in and shakes the dish to disperse the courgettes evenly. Pour the béchamel sauce over the courgettes and sprinkle over the cheese and 6 tbsp milk. Bake in the oven on the top shelf for 25 minutes, or until the gratin is bubbling and golden. MARGARITA Born 1932, Mallorca, Spain 'I've reached my nineties, but I don't particularly feel very old. Thankfully, I can still get around and take care of myself as well as the children and grandchildren. I have a life of hard work to thank for that. I was born into a family that wasn't hugely wealthy and so, like many children at the time, I was sent to the estate of a rich French family here in Mallorca. That way, my parents could ensure I would be well taken care of, but it also meant that I couldn't go to school. I was nine years old when I left to work on the estate and I was terrified to leave my mother, but I have to say that, in the end, they took very good care of me and treated me as their own daughter. I learned a lot there about the land and about cooking, which I have loved ever since. It was in that first job that I learned to make coca de verduras. I've been making it for over 80 years now, so we can say I've become an expert. The key to this recipe and my ultimate tip is to use a hardy iron tray to make it and to cook it on the lowest level of the oven with the top and bottom setting on. You want the vegetables to caramelise and the dough to cook at the same time. No one wants a soggy dough. You want it to come out crispy like a tart.' MARGARITA'S COCA DE VERDURAS (Mallorcan Vegetable Tart) Every Mallorcan is familiar with coca de verduras, a crisp, thin-based tart weighed heavy with plenty of vegetables. The coca is described as a flatbread or pizza as it isn't yeasted at all. It's best enjoyed with a beer and a couple of other small plates and would make a great addition to a picnic, packed lunch or garden party spread. SERVES 12 SLICES 1 butterhead lettuce (about 150g), trimmed and finely chopped 2 tsp flaky sea salt 2 small leeks, finely chopped 6 spring onions, finely chopped 1 small bunch of parsley, leaves finely chopped 1 tsp ground black pepper 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 garlic clove, crushed or grated 150ml olive oil 2 small tomatoes, thinly sliced handful For the pastry ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 100ml cold water 100ml olive oil 50g lard or unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into small cubes 300g plain flour, plus extra as needed 1 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and line a roughly 38cm x 25cm baking tray, preferably cast iron, with baking parchment. 2 Put the chopped lettuce into a large bowl, add 1 teaspoon of the salt and massage it into the lettuce to break it down a little. Add the leeks, spring onions and parsley to the bowl with the remaining teaspoon of salt, the pepper, paprika, garlic and olive oil. Stir to combine. 3 Next, make the pastry. In a separate bowl, combine the bicarbonate of soda with the water, olive oil and your choice of fat. Stir to combine and break down the cubes of fat a little. 4 Add the flour bit by bit, combining with your hands and rubbing the cubes of fat into the flour to break them up. Do this until it comes together into a soft, pliable ball that doesn't feel sticky. Add more flour or water a teaspoon at a time if the dough is too wet or dry. You are going to press this into the tray rather than roll it, so you don't want it to be too stiff. 5 Place the dough in the centre of the prepared tray and pat it down to flatten it. Begin to spread it out across the entire base of the tray with your hands, pressing in with your fingers and pushing the pastry outwards until it reaches the edges in a thin, even layer. Prick it all over with a fork, then bake on the bottom of the oven (not on a shelf) for 5 minutes. Placing it on the bottom of the oven will help the base crisp up. 6 After 5 minutes, when the base is a little more firm, remove the tray from the oven and cover the pastry evenly with the greens, then spread the slices of tomato on top. Return to the bottom of the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then move to the top of the oven for a final 5 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the topping is nicely cooked and slightly charred in places. Remove from the oven and top with the toasted pine nuts, then serve hot or cold. NOW BUY THE BOOK Our recipes are taken from Mediterranea by Anastasia Miari with photographs by Marco Argüello (Quadrille, £28). To order a copy for £23.80 until 17 August, go to or call 020 3176 2937. Free UK delivery on orders over £25.

South Korea air crash: Inside the final minutes of Jeju Air flight
South Korea air crash: Inside the final minutes of Jeju Air flight

Reuters

time27-07-2025

  • Reuters

South Korea air crash: Inside the final minutes of Jeju Air flight

July 27 (Reuters) - South Korea is investigating the crash of a Jeju Air ( opens new tab Boeing (BA.N), opens new tab 737-800 jet on December 29 at Muan International Airport that killed 179 people, in the deadliest air disaster on the country's soil. The following are the final minutes of Flight 7C2216 gathered from a preliminary investigation report in January, South Korea's transport ministry and fire authorities, and a July 19 update from investigators seen by Reuters. All times are Korea Standard Time (GMT+9). 8:54:43 a.m. - Jeju Air 7C2216 contacts Muan airport air traffic control as it makes the final approach and is given clearance to land on runway 01, which is orientated at 10 degrees north-east. 8:57:50 a.m. - Air traffic control gives "caution - bird activity" advisory. 8:58:11 a.m. - Jeju Air pilots are heard talking about spotting a flock of birds under the aircraft. 8:58:26 a.m. - The aircraft aborts the landing attempt and then strikes birds while starting to circle back for another landing attempt known as a go-around. Both engines continued to operate with vibrations. The right engine also experienced a surge, emitting large flames and thick black smoke. 8:58:45 a.m. - Pilots stop the left engine while performing emergency procedures. The July 19 update said the evidence for this came from the cockpit voice recorder (CVR), flight data recorder (FDR) and inspection of the engines. 8:58:50 a.m. - The aircraft's FDR and CVR stop recording. At the moment both "black boxes" stop recording, the aircraft is flying at the speed of 161 knots (298 kph or 185 mph) at an altitude of 498 ft (152 m). 8:58:56 a.m. - Flight 7C2216 pilot makes emergency Mayday declaration related to a bird strike during the go-around. 9:00 a.m. - During the go-around, Flight 7C2216 requests clearance to land on runway 19, which is by approach from the opposite end of the airport's single runway. 9:01 a.m. - Air traffic control authorises landing on runway 19. 9:02 a.m. - Flight 7C2216 makes contact with runway at about the 1,200 m (3,937 ft) point of the 2,800 m (9,186 ft) runway. Landing gear was not lowered and the plane lands on its belly. 9:02:34 a.m. - Air traffic control alerts "crash bell" at airport fire rescue unit. 9:02:55 a.m. - Airport fire rescue unit completes deploying fire rescue equipment. 9:02:57 a.m. - Flight 7C2216 crashes into embankment after over-shooting the runway. 9:10 a.m. - The Transport Ministry receives an accident report from airport authorities. 9:23 a.m. - One male rescued and transported to a temporary medical facility. 9:38 a.m. - Muan airport is closed. 9:50 a.m. - Rescue completed of a second person from inside tail section of the plane.

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