‘Three to five sprays or risk annoying people': The rules of aftershave for modern men

Telegraph

a day ago

The fragrance market is booming right now – and men are leading the charge. Data from analytics firm Euromonitor says that the global male fragrance market is predicted to be worth $22 billion (£18.6 billion) by the end of 2025, thanks to 4.2 per cent growth year-on-year (as opposed to 3.5 per cent the year before). And while men of all ages are increasingly willing to spend more on fragrance, it's one group in particular who are driving the trend: Gen Z.
According to American market research company Circana, men currently between their 14th and 29th birthdays are becoming increasingly serious about scent. In 2020, 34 per cent of this age bracket reported using fragrance, but as of 2024, that had risen sharply to 56 per cent. In short, men are buying more scents than ever before and at a younger age than ever before – so the real question is, are they deploying them correctly?
First, it's worth saying that the world of scent is highly divisive because how we want to smell (and how we want others to smell) is so subjective, but it can also be mind-bogglingly complicated. In great part, this is down to the language we use around fragrance. For example, in the UK, we tend to call the entire category of scent 'perfume' and men's fragrances 'aftershaves', whereas in America, men's scents all tend to get called 'colognes'. We tend to use these words interchangeably, but these are all actually specific categories of the types of scents we wear, which are based on the concentration of aromatic oils within the scent itself (the rest being water and alcohol).
So, in order from highest concentration to lowest, the spectrum starts with parfum (which has a perfume oil concentration of 20 to 40 per cent), then onto eau de parfum (15 to 20 per cent), eau de toilette (five to 15 per cent), eau de cologne (or what we Brits tend to call 'aftershave', at two to five per cent), and finally eau fraîche (one to three per cent).
The higher the concentration of oils within the juice, the stronger and more powerful it will be from fewer spritzes. In other words, getting those spritzes right is the difference between your appearance at your next event being a subtle, seductive whisp as you are greeted versus an absolute nuclear bomb that announces your arrival three streets away.
So now we've got that sorted, what should every man be aware of when applying scent? That's where the experts come in…
Where should you apply aftershave?
Before we get into the nitty gritty of how much to spray on, let's discuss where to apply your favourite fragrance. 'For a swoon-worthy fragrance experience, apply on clean, freshly showered skin,' says perfumier Azzi Glasser, founder of The Perfumer's Story, who creates bespoke scents that help A-list actors like Jude Law and Helena Bonham Carter get into character for their movies.
'Around the neck and the chest is a must, but also make sure you hit the pulse points on the back of your neck, wrists, hair and back of the knees. The increased heat here, thanks to blood flow being closer to the surface of the skin, will activate the full effect of your fragrance.'
How many spritzes?
A perennial question men ask about fragrance is how many spritzes is correct? 'A good rule of thumb is between three and five sprays across your chosen pulse points,' says Karine Dubreuil, a master perfumer who recently crafted Givenchy's Gentleman Society Eau de Parfum Ambrée.
However, the number of sprays of a fragrance that you need may depend on the situation. 'If you're on a date, a hint of a scent is enough. In an office environment, less is more. If you're working from home, spray liberally and enjoy the fug of your chosen favourite fragrance,' advises Sarah Reason, owner of cool, independent fragrance boutique Soliflore in Brighton. 'It's far better to err on the side of restraint and have your fragrance be an invitation to get closer. After all there's no better compliment than 'you smell great' when greeting someone.'
And sometimes it's not about the amount you spray, but the notes within it – a lighter citrus, for example, will often be less intrusive than a deep, rich woody, resinous or leathery scent. However, it's these bold, strong notes that tend to get included in fragrances for men. 'If you're rocking an uber toxic masculine projector of utter doom fume, these can be very annoying to other people,' says David Seth Moltz, co-founder of edgy Brooklyn-based scent house, DS&Durga. 'I like strong perfumes that are more balanced – with these you can go two to six sprays with confidence. However, if you think it's cool to spray ten spritzes, you might have a problem.'
Should the amount you apply change as we age?
In the same way that younger ears can hear a wider range of decibels, so too are more mature noses less sensitive to scents. 'As we age, our sense of smell fades – this is called presbyosmia, so there's a chance you might end up spraying too much,' Reason cautions. 'And with ageing comes drier skin, so your favourite fragrance might not last as long (as fragrance clings to moisture), meaning you'll need to spray more.'
Keep it fresh
It's not just an age thing. If we are around any scent for a sustained period of time, we tend to stop noticing it. This nose blindness also means you could end up applying more to compensate – potentially meaning others are suffocated by your scent. What you need is the equivalent of a pallet cleanser for your nose. 'If you have a signature perfume you wear everyday, it becomes so familiar to you that your brain becomes numb to it,' says Lyn Harris, the mastermind behind niche British fragrance house Perfumer H. 'I recommend wearing a different scent for a month – perhaps a light, simple cologne – and that will reignite your olfactory system to your favourite scent.'
Some brilliant aftershaves to try
Gentleman Society Eau de Parfum Ambrée by Givenchy, £110
Originally launched in 1974, Givenchy Gentleman became a heady icon for the disco generation. This new flanker continues its forefather's legacy in a more contemporary way by splicing the original's sensual vanilla, wood and vetiver with powdery orris, smooth tobacco and aromatic sage. One that'll put hairs on your chest – gold medallion not necessary.
Buongiorno Eau de Parfum by Acqua di Parma, £217
Inspired by the arrival of spring in Tuscany, the latest release from storied Italian scent house Acqua di Parma is a blast of crisp mint, tart lemon, clean lavender and botanical basil. A fresh, herbaceous and cooling citrus that's perfetto for the warmer months ahead on home soil or abroad.
Terre d'Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense by Hermès, £120
A deeper, darker, more intense new take on the modern classic Terre d'Hermès. Yes, the original's bergamot and black pepper is present, but this juice is defined by its unctuous and addictive notes of coffee and liquorice, and an interest-piquing fantasy note of lava bringing warmth, earthiness and minerality.
Steam Eau de Parfum by Perfumer H, £140
Created to evoke the mountain mists that roll in over the forests of Jingmai in China, Steam by British perfume house Perfumer H centres on a verdant, tannin-y green tea note, enhanced by sweet mandarin, aromatic coriander, juniper and cedarwood. Wonderfully warm, wet and comforting for those cool summer mornings.
Brown Flowers Eau de Parfum by DS & Durga, £159
New York perfume house DS & Durga is known for its complex and intriguing formulations – and their 1970s-evoking new release Brown Flowers is no exception. Decadent and provocative, instantly recognisable sweet jasmine is given an edge by freshly ground coffee and earthy, sexy musk. Definitely one for after dark.
Mystère Vetivert Eau de Parfum by The Perfumer's Story, £98
A favourite of A-lister Jude Law, Mystère Vetivert was created by perfumer-to-the-stars Azzi Glasser in tribute to her father. Its mix of green cypress, laurel and violet leaf, underpinned by a smoky, dry-mossy combination of vetiver, sequoia and clarysage make this scent feel as comforting as it is sophisticated.
American Psycho Eau de Parfum by 19-69, £160
Inspired by Patrick Bateman's penchant for sparkling water, icy sorbet and hours spent perfecting his skincare in the bathroom, this scent's blend of frosted citrus, cool aquatic notes and crisp carnation flower, pine and jasmine makes for a sparkling summer scent. An everyday fragrance to die for, you could say.
Cypress & Grapevine Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London, £160
Mossy, woody and aromatic, this is a distinctly masculine mix of earthy, sappy cypress branches and damp, dark green undergrowth with the gentle warmth of cedar. Imagine a traditional barbershop scent splashed on after shave – but that barbershop is in the middle of a forest and covered in a tangle of vines.