Armani Couture Paid Homage to A Bygone Film Archetype

Elle

08-07-2025

When a collection is almost devoid of color, right down to the grayscale makeup, it's difficult to not immediately conjure ideas of the silver screen. Intrigue, intense beauty, and glistening gowns often evoke traditional images of femme fatales and seductive heroines. But this season at Armani couture, while these elements were undoubtedly present, something more interesting lay in the mix. Nestled among stunning signature liquid dresses in the historic Palazzo Armani, the collection paid homage to the long-lost archetype of the female dandy. A modern Marlene Dietrich strutting down the runway, cigarette holder and all.
In this context, a traditional tuxedo almost becomes a perverse suggestion, especially when there are so many ways to play with it. Why not craft a low-cut evening gown whose neckline is trimmed with lapels and pair it with an invisibly fastened floating bow tie, oversized fan, and pointed-toe shoes, calling to mind a glamorous woman of a bygone era who entertains in house slippers more often than stilettos? That is the Armani question. Don't wear a shirt underneath the embroidered jacket—or do—as long as it's totally and completely extravagant.
Military-style equestrian jackets also enjoyed a cameo; the style was shown both on a dress bodice and paired with skinny velvet pants. (Given that it has recently adorned other runways, including Dior menswear, all signs point towards a renaissance.) Where there was color, it served to bolster the intensity of the film noir effect, as if floral embroidery or blue, pink, and green peek-a-boo feathers poking from an oversized charcoal feathered coat could become even more luxurious.
For the finale, the models dropped the cinematic veil and cheered. Armani Privé recently celebrated its 20th anniversary, which coincides with the half-centennial of Armani itself. 'Haute couture has allowed me to explore a different side of my style, one that is both complementary and alternative to prêt-à-porter, yet unified by the search for a timeless, linear, and high-end signature style,' the designer told ELLE on the occasion. 'I would describe these years as the story of another Armani—freer and more glittering—but still unmistakably the Armani that everyone knows.' Shimmering with creativity and saturated with seduction it is.
Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.