The New Trains in Central Asia Travel Back in Time to Breathtaking Sights Along the Silk Road

Travel + Leisure

14-06-2025

In Central Asia, the new trains travel back in time. As early as the second century B.C., an important network of trading routes known as the Silk Road linked Europe and East Asia. Now, in Uzbekistan, the region's first high-speed railway system is making it easier to visit that part of the route. Italian photojournalist Francesco Lastrucci switched between these new trains—which are on par with France's TGV or Portugal's Alfa Pendular—and the slower Soviet-era trains. He traveled from the capital, Tashkent, to Khiva—with stops in Samarkand, Uzbekistan's second-largest city, and Bukhara. On board, Lastrucci encountered few tourists and even fewer English speakers. From left: The showroom of Bukhara Silk Carpets; Kukaldosh Madrassa, in Bukhara.
Buy rail tickets à la carte at railway.uz, starting from $21, or join curated Silk Road trips, such as this 17-day Silk Road Through the Caucasus itinerary with tour operator Abercrombie & Kent. Here, Lastrucci recounts his three days on the Silk Road, complete with his best recommendations in Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva.
Tilla-Kari Madrassa, in Samarkand's Registan Square. En route from Samarkand to Bukhara on a modern train.
Day 1: Samarkand
'When I arrived in Samarkand, a city in east Uzbekistan that was a major stop on the Silk Road, I headed to Registan Square, which is arguably the most iconic site in the country. It started raining on my walk, so I ducked into Siyob Bazaar, a covered market with two levels and vendors selling food, pottery, and spices. A woman was selling bread, which, in Uzbekistan, is round like a wheel—although the decoration changes from region to region. In Registan Square, there are three madrassas, or religious schools, including Tilla-Kari Madrassa, which is connected to an ornately decorated mosque. I then took a fast train from Samarkand to Bukhara. Looking south, I could see mountains in the distance, bordering Turkmenistan. When we stopped at a station in Navoi, I peeked out the door and saw only locals.' From left: Bread for sale at Siyob Bazaar, in Samarkand; the Sherdor Madrassa in Samarkand, reflected in a shop's mirror. From left: Posing in front of Khiva's Ichan-Kala West Gate; Kalta Minor, an unfinished minaret in Khiva.
Day 2: Bukhara
'Bukhara is known for art and hand-woven textiles. I started my day at Bukhara Silk Carpets, in the city's old town, which has a huge showroom and a workshop behind it, where I met about 20 kind, welcoming women making rugs. Artisans set up stalls at the entrance of the ancient Kukaldosh Madrassa, many painting Persian miniatures, which are small pieces with intricate details. For lunch, I sampled the pumpkin manti, a classic Central Asian dumpling, and beef soup at Jam, a restaurant close to the madrassa. My visit fell right before Nauruz, the Persian New Year; many locals were preparing for the celebration. These women were dancing while cooking sumalak, a sweet paste made of sprouted wheat.'
'The train from Bukhara to Khiva was older than my first train. The landscape between the cities is all desert. For me, looking out at that expanse was hypnotic; like a form of meditation. When I got on the train, I was given a pillow and sheets and made my bed in the car, which I shared with three other people—two women, who only spoke Uzbek, and a university math professor who spoke English. We chatted the whole trip, and he even invited me for lunch at his house.' From left: Inside Kuhna Ark, in Khiva; passing by the Paklavon Makhmud Mausoleum. Women dancing in the streets of Bukhara.
Day 3: Khiva
'Khiva is smaller than Bukhara. The main attraction is the unfinished Kalta Minor minaret, which I visited early in the morning to photograph. My fingers were freezing as I took pictures, but it was worth it to have no one else around. In the late afternoon, I had tea at Terrassa Café & Restaurant, which has breathtaking views over Ichan-Kala, Khiva's Old Town. Away from the big crowds of Samarkand, my stay felt quieter, more intimate. I continued on to Paklavon Makhmud Mausoleum, the tomb of Khiva's patron saint, which has a magnificent turquoise dome and a blue-tiled façade. Kuhna Ark citadel feels like a city within the city of Khiva. It was built in the 17th century by the khan of Khiva and is surrounded by fortified walls and watchtowers. I climbed one of them and found the best view of Khiva.' Terrassa Café & Restaurant, in Khiva.