The Evolving Accent

New Indian Express

01-05-2025

On a sun-drenched Delhi afternoon, we glided beneath the leafy canopy of Lodhi Road, where time seems to slow beneath the embrace of ancient trees. Our destination lay at the end of this dappled route—Indian Accent, a name that resonates across continents as the vanguard of modern Indian cuisine. Though barely 15 years young, it carries the gravitas of a culinary legacy, having redefined what Indian food could be—with flair, finesse, and fearless innovation.
For years, the restaurant's soul bore the unmistakable imprint of chef Manish Mehrotra, the visionary who charted its pioneering course. But seasons shift, and so do chapters. Today, that luminous legacy has been entrusted to his long-time protégé, chef Shantanu Mehrotra, a craftsman who once stood beside the master and now stands tall in his own right. For the past year, he has quietly helmed the revered kitchen—first honouring the blueprint drawn up alongside chef Manish, and now, gently steering it into a new era.
With a newly unveiled tasting menu—his own composition, rich in nuance and bold in imagination—chef Shantanu steps into the spotlight. Together with his devoted team, he carries forward the story of Indian Accent, not as a repetition, but as a graceful evolution—one that honours its roots even as it reaches for new horizons.
We were welcomed at the door by chef Shantanu himself—a gesture both humbling and quietly powerful. As he guided us to our table, a quiet awe settled over me. There was something profoundly gracious about a chef of his stature personally ensuring that each guest embarking on his tasting menu felt seen from the very first moment. His humility, much like his food, speaks softly yet leaves an indelible impression.
As we settled in, the amuse-bouche arrived—a delicate herald of what was to come. I noticed with delight that the famed blue cheese naan had gracefully stepped aside to make room for its newer counterpart: a warm, caramelised onion and cheddar naan, deeply nutty and comforting. My husband, a devoted blue cheese enthusiast, wore a faint look of betrayal, but I couldn't have been happier—blue cheese and I have never been allies. This revised classic was paired with a demure shot of aloo-methi shorba, crowned with a whisper of garam masala. I admit, I had my doubts—a shorba made with aloo and methi felt like a culinary oxymoron. But one sip, and all hesitation melted away. I asked for seconds. Unashamedly.
Between courses, curiosity led me to enquire about the man behind the menu. In his quiet, almost hesitant manner, chef Shantanu shared that he hails from Saharanpur, a small town in Uttar Pradesh. Trained in classical French cuisine, he has been with Old World Hospitality for over 25 years—and with Indian Accent since even before its doors first opened. A man of few words, but each of them sincere.
We spoke about how Indian Accent, at first glance, can seem almost theatrical—plating that's elegant, almost sculptural, dishes that demand attention. But peel away that polished surface, and what you uncover is pure, undiluted India. The flavours are not inventions—they are memories, evocations, longings. Familiar and resonant, simply retold.
Take, for instance, the
khakra, vatana, dhokla
—a dish that might be mistaken for a modern canapé, a mere tart with its usual toppings. But one bite, and it unspools into a vivid memory of Gujarat. The base, a crisp khakra; the topping, a lush green pea mash crowned with the tang and crumble of khaman dhokla—a carnival of textures and a symphony of flavours in a single, unassuming bite.
Then came the congee—a silken tribute to the southern coast, where rice is more than sustenance: it is ritual. This rendition, creamy and rich, nodded to the comforting
kanji
of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, but with a twist: shards of crispy green jackfruit added texture and depth, while a scattering of pickled
narthangai
rind—sharp, citrusy, and deeply regional—elevated the dish into something rarefied and utterly unforgettable.
Chef Shantanu Mehrotra's new summer tasting menu is a quiet revelation—much like the chef himself. It doesn't clamber for attention; instead, it unfolds with gentle elegance and quiet assurance, each course more compelling than the last. Subtle, thoughtful, and deeply personal, it is the mark of a man who allows his food to do the talking—in the most eloquent of tongues.