Taking the liberty of including Hermanus in the Garden Route area

The Herald

11-05-2025

Jose Burman is the author of a book called The Garden Route which has seen several editions being printed since 1964.
Second-hand copies have become scarce and valuable. Locals in the know, swear by this book which is jam-packed with information, anecdotes and even maps of the area.
Burman says: 'The Garden Route proper includes only the area between Mossel Bay and Storms River. Short of arriving there by parachute, however, it is necessary to travel to reach these points.
'In the wider sense, therefore, the Garden Route, is generally accepted to lie between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth.'
This description of the area in Burman's book therefore completely warrants a visit to Hermanus.
Most of us think Hermanus and we only think whales. Wrong, because though it is a very famous whale-watching destination, which sees foreigners and South Africans flocking here in the winter, this town, which hugs the Walker Bay coast in the Overberg region, rocks for many reasons.
There's the sea of course, but it's got so much more on-the-go from hikes, to wine farms, to good restaurants, shopping even.
I have a takkie fetish and I don't need not even one more pair, but here in the main shopping drag just off the waterfront in Hermanus, I managed to find a trendy brand I don't have from a surf shop and of course I bought them.
There are plenty of bespoke shops here to tempt visitors including art galleries.
I first came to know about Hermanus when I worked in Cape Town years ago and locals used to blame Hermanus holiday-home owners for the traffic on a Friday afternoon headed that way, but until now I hadn't visited.
Well-heeled South Africans have holiday homes here and there are dozens of guest houses and accommodation establishments to take your pick from.
Unless you have many millions to spend, property prices here have shot through the roof as it's a very desirable town to live in.
The municipality works, the pavements are clean, there's no sign of urban decay rather a noticeably well-maintained infrastructure.
Property agents say Hermanus has seen more younger generations of families relocating here and calling it their home.
There are good schools, hospitals and amenities — all the hallmarks of a town that is desirable.
We spent two nights at the Hermanus Boutique Guest House overlooking the sea and it was crazy to see two groups of foreign tourists arrive in the late afternoon, head out for supper and leave after breakfast the next morning, something that happens a lot here one of the managers tells me.
What a waste of all the super things to do here because you really need a few days to do Hermanus justice.
The location of the Hermanus Boutique Guest House screams location, location as it has a prime oceanside position across the road from the scenic coastal path and the famous Fick's tidal pool cradled between rocks — providing a sheltered and safe place for families and children to swim.
It's also a central location so that the area can be explored on foot.
From our sea-facing patio, from early in the morning until sunset, there is an endless stream of walkers, hot-mommy joggers and cyclists who go by.
The Cliff Path, which you pick up directly opposite the guest house, is a perfect option for a scenic stroll along the coastline, with the path hugging the cliffs for more than 10km.
This path facilitates walks from the New Harbour all the way to the other end of Hermanus, near the mouth of the Kleinrivier Lagoon.
Staying at the Hermanus Boutique Guesthouse is like landing with your bottom in the butter not only from a location point of view.
It's a vibey and chic place, the décor reflecting the mood here in Hermanus with coastal blues and sunshine yellow, flashes of turquoise, modern and bright.
There are 19 exquisitely appointed suites, catering for a variety of preference and budget, but the pièce de résistance has to be the honeymoon suite, not only because you can lie in bed and watch whales in season.
The layout is all about romance with an open-plan bedroom-bathroom (except for the loo thank goodness) including a big tub with jacuzzi jets.
If you fill it with bubble bath, the foam floats over to the bed. The shower is big enough for two to share.
Hosts are especially friendly, making a real effort to find out what guests want to do and giving them ideas, making dinner reservations even.
The Hermanus Boutique Guest House does not do dinners for a good reason.
Guests like to get out and about and there are plenty of restaurants in the bustling centre of town a 10-minute walk away. And it's perfectly safe to walk.
The old adage of eating breakfast for a king applies here because this meal is included in the rates and is quite something to behold.
There are cereals, yoghurt, a fabulous selection of freshly peeled fruit, cheese, cold meat and anything you might like to warm up with before you order a cooked meal.
The full-house here is a memorable meal with attention to detail like perfect eggs and I learn their trick of threading edible flowers into a macaroni tube to make a plate of food next level.
It's little touches like this that earned the establishment its four stars.
The first night there we took an amble and found Rossis Italian Restaurant which serves a meaningful pizza.
You can't miss The Burgundy Restaurant, on the very edge of the bay and only a few metres away from Hermanus's historic old harbour.
It is open all day and you get to choose a spot on the outdoor terrace.
Its chef still goes to the quayside to his seafood supplier, Whale Coast Fisheries, to choose the fresh fish of the day.
The Burgundy Restaurant sources its produce from the Hemel en Aarde Farmstall to keep it local.
It's casual here and we get to talk to a local retired couple who come here once a week for dinner.
We discuss property prices with them and all hopes of living here are dashed.
Mandatory on a trip to Hermanus should be a visit to the award-winning Bientang's Cave Restaurant and Wine Bar on the shores of Walker Bay.
It's carved into the depths of a century-old cave and unforgettable.
A steep flight of stairs takes you down to the restaurant area which is right on the edge of the sea and I have never seen anything quite like this with tables perched right on the rocks so that the sea splashes almost at your feet.
In big tides or during storms, the rocks disappear under the water.
Our waitress tells me that during peak season, she clocks up 30,000 steps in a day's work from the kitchen down to the rocks and I am not surprised.
Bientang's has won a fleet of awards, has an elite wine list focusing on the best the Cape has to offer and there's a vast menu with an emphasis on seafood.
It's expensive if you choose the seafood platter, crayfish or pan-flashed tiger prawns, but even if you just go for a coffee on the rocks, you will never forget this setting.
Needless to say, during whale-watching season, you will get 100 metres away from them.
Throughout the year dolphins, Bryde's whales and the occasional Orca visit — then the main actors, the Southern Right whales come from May until the spring putting on a show just for patrons.
Apart from the Cliff Path, Hermanus offers a number of well-maintained walks from easy strolls to the more serious kind.
If you have time, the Fernkloof Nature Reserve offers hikers a cornucopia of Cape Floral Kingdom endemic plant life, birds and various walks.
Then there's the Hemel-en-Aarde Wine Region boasting several wine farms all a short drive from Hermanus town that you should set aside time for.
With views of the valley and soft mountains surrounding you, wine never tasted better.
I only have so much space to extol the virtues of Hermanus, so I suggest visit the passionate people at Hermanus Tourism located in the Village Square, Old Harbour, who will give suggestions to keep you busy for days.
And while you are there it's worth popping into the Old Harbour Museum and the Whale Museum.
The Hermanus Boutique Guest House is part of the Cape Country Routes (CCR), a leading group of owner-operated and managed accommodation and activity establishments — more than 20 privately owned hotels, lodges and guest houses — located on the scenic and historic routes in the Western and Eastern Cape.
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