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The Largest Temperate Rain Forest in the World Is in the U.S.—and It Has Stunning Glaciers and Fjords
The Largest Temperate Rain Forest in the World Is in the U.S.—and It Has Stunning Glaciers and Fjords

Travel + Leisure

time15-06-2025

  • Travel + Leisure

The Largest Temperate Rain Forest in the World Is in the U.S.—and It Has Stunning Glaciers and Fjords

Get a bird's-eye view of the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield from a seaplane. Hop on a boat for a whale watching and wildlife viewing tour where you may spot humpback or killer whales. Ride the Goldbelt Tram for the best views of Juneau and the surrounding area. Hike the half-mile Mount Roberts Alpine Loop Trail to see Indigenous totem poles, Sitka spruce trees, and sweeping vistas of the Gastineau Channel. Pitch a tent at Mendenhall Campground—one of the 13 campgrounds in Tongass National Forest. With more than 700 miles of hiking trails, 17,000 miles of creeks and rivers, and 128 glaciers, Tongass National Forest is a haven for those who want to experience "wild' Alaska. It stretches across approximately 17 million acres and includes Alaska's coveted Inside Passage—it's the largest national forest in the U.S. 'The Tongass National Forest makes up over 90 percent of Southeast Alaska,' says Peter Nave, owner and lead guide of Wild Coast Excursions. 'It is a region of mountains and fjords, where towns are thinly stretched between steep forested slopes and deep, rich waters." Tongass is not only the largest temperate rain forest in the country, but the largest in the world. It's a thriving biodiversity hotspot and the perfect environment for brown bears, moose, wolves, bald eagles, deer, and even flying squirrels. Located in Southeast Alaska, Tongass National Forest includes the Alexander Archipelago, made up of 1,100 islands. While cruising the waterways, you may see five species of Pacific salmon, humpback and killer whales, sea lions, seals, and sea otters, as well as several types of seabirds. In addition, the region is the native home of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian Indigenous peoples, who have lived in the area for thousands of years. A popular access point is the capital city of Juneau, but most people come to the forest via cruise, usually entering the area through either Ketchikan or Sitka, Alaska. Depending on your cruise and how much time you have, you could explore the forest by hiking, fishing, dog sledding, or even zip lining. Here's everything you need to know before visiting Tongass National Forest. Tongass National Forest near Ketchikan, Alaska. You'll want to be prepared for chilly weather by dressing in layers, and a raincoat never hurts—Tongass is a rain forest after all. Also, be sure to bring water with you and a fully charged cellphone. Since cell reception can be spotty in the area, make sure someone knows where you're going. While there is no official entrance (or entry fees), like you would find at a national park, the Southeast Alaskan Discovery Center in Ketchikan or the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in Juneau are great places to start. Admission is $5 for adults, while children are free. You can learn about the flora and fauna, history, culture, and geography of Tongass National Forest by walking through exhibits, watching films, or participating in activities. Park rangers are on hand to answer questions, give suggestions, and hand out maps. You will not need a rental car, as there are few roads in the area. Most people get from town to town by seaplane or boat. Drones are allowed in some areas. Just be sure to follow Federal Aviation Administration regulations. Steve Blackledge, Environment America's senior director of conservation campaigns recommends bringing binoculars. 'If you're from the lower 48 and aren't used to being around bald eagles, these birds—America's symbol—will take your breath away,' says Blackledge. You can see views of the Tongass Narrows from Rainbird Trail. Most people would agree that the best time to visit Alaska is during summer, when the weather is warmest—usually in the 40s to 70s Fahrenheit. The darkest months are in winter, when there could be less than seven hours of daylight. You can see the Northern Lights from August through April, but you'll have better luck further north in towns like Fairbanks. If you're trying to avoid large crowds and high prices, don't visit in June through August, which is the peak season for cruise ships. As many as 16,000 passengers could descend on these small towns during the weekends. Visit in November to attend the Sitka WhaleFest where you'll learn about local marine life and go whale watching in Sitka Sound. September is the wettest month of the year. A cruise ship approaches Juneau, Alaska. Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure The vast majority of travelers arrive via cruise ship, which typically stop in small towns such as Sitka, Ketchikan, and Juneau. Cruise ships typically visit Alaska from May through September. Though it's less common, you could fly into Juneau International Airport (JNU) or Ketchikan International Airport (KTN). However, you would still need to travel by seaplane or boat to reach most points of interest within the park. A family of grizzly bears in bears in their natural environment is one of the best things you can do in Tongass National Forest. There are four observation sites that are managed by the U.S. Forest Service to keep travelers and bears safe. Most sites require permits and fees. Getting out on the water is a must. Marine life is abundant here and thrives in the numerous channels, fjords, and bays within the forest. From humpback and killer whales to sea otters and sea lions, seeing these majestic creatures frolicking in their natural habitats is thrilling. Several companies offer boat tours. Alaska is known for its breathtaking glaciers and ice fields, and there are several ways to experience them in Tongass National Forest. You could see them from the water on a boat or by kayaking or from the sky via a float plane or helicopter. Alternatively, you could simply hike around them or view them on a dog sled. There are 19 designated wilderness areas in 'The Last Frontier.' You can fish, camp, hike, kayak, watch wildlife, or just appreciate the wild and scenic landscape. Two of the areas, Misty Fjords and Admiralty Island, are national monuments. The Auk Nu Trail in the Tongass National Forest. wanderluster/Getty Images This hike in Juneau starts with a scenic ride on the Goldbelt Tram, which whisks you to the trailhead at 1,800 feet. The half-mile trail provides expansive views of Juneau and the picturesque waterways and forests that surround it. Be sure to grab a trail map at the Goldbelt Tram gift store. To access this roughly three-mile loop trail, begin at the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in Juneau where you can first watch a short video about the glacier. The moderate trail will reward you with epic views of the approximately 13-mile-long Mendenhall Glacier that flows from the Juneau Icefield. Head to the end of Basin Road in Juneau to get to the three to five-mile out-and-back Perseverance Trail. It runs along an old railroad and passes by out-of-commission mine shafts. This trail is dog-friendly and also open to mountain biking. Follow the beautiful Indian River about four miles (one way) to arrive at a dramatic waterfall on the Indian River Trail, also known as the Kaasda Héen Trail. It winds through a lush forest landscape just outside of Sitka. The trailhead is accessible via the public Ride bus from downtown. Guest room in Four Points by Sheraton Juneau. Staying in a backcountry lodge in Alaska is on many people's bucket list. Raven's Roost Cabin, owned and operated by the U.S. Forest Service, is a tranquil escape since it can only be reached by helicopter or by hiking four miles on Raven Trail from Petersburg. Peer out of your tent or RV for spectacular views of Mendenhall Glacier from this fully equipped campground near downtown Juneau. 'Roughing it' is easy here, since there's drinking water on tap, flush toilets, showers, and grills. Spend your days hiking and your nights around the campfire. If your goal is to hook the 'big one,' book a stay at Salmon Falls Fishing Resort. This all-inclusive resort in Ketchikan, aka the 'Salmon Capital of the World,' has upscale rustic lodging, a waterfront restaurant with locally sourced cuisine, and guided fishing excursions. For more contemporary accommodations, stay at the Four Points by Sheraton Juneau. You will find all the comfort and modern amenities you would expect from a Sheraton. The hotel is conveniently situated in the historic downtown district, within walking distance of shops and restaurants. Tracy's King Crab Shack in Juneau, Alaska. Meg Roussos/Bloomberg via Getty Images Sink your teeth into a true Alaskan delicacy, Alaskan king crab, at Tracy's Crab Shack. With two locations in Juneau, you can order a bucket of crab legs and claws, crab cakes, or crab bisque. Choose from red king crab, golden king crab, Dungeness crab, or snow crab. Watch float planes take off and land from this kitschy waterfront eatery in Ketchikan, serving locally sourced seafood. At Bush Pilot's Lounge, you can learn about the history of Alaskan bush aviation while dining on a three-course, made-from-scratch meal. Don't miss the 3D-printed map of Alaska's Inside Passage. Located in Sitka's Harbor Mountain Brewing Co., you can wash down your craft beer with a piping hot artisan pizza from Campfire Kitchen. These hand-tossed, wood-fired pies come in six varieties, including 'Break Up at Burning Man' with eight toppings. They also serve reindeer hot dogs.

Irish whale-watching company ends tours on south Atlantic coast and blames overfishing
Irish whale-watching company ends tours on south Atlantic coast and blames overfishing

The Guardian

time30-05-2025

  • Business
  • The Guardian

Irish whale-watching company ends tours on south Atlantic coast and blames overfishing

A whale-watching company has abandoned tours off Ireland's southern Atlantic coast and declared the waters an empty, lifeless sea. Colin Barnes, who ran Cork Whale Watch, announced he was closing the company because overfishing of sprat has disrupted the marine food chain and diverted humpback, minke and fin whales as well as dolphins. 'Sadly, our world-class whale watching is now a thing of the past,' Barnes said in a post this week. 'A small number of greedy fishermen with huge trawlers have overfished the sprats to the point of near extinction. There is nothing left for the whales to prey upon so they have moved on in search of prey elsewhere.' The company, based in the coastal village of Unionhall, also known as Union Hall, had thrived for most of its 25 years, but only a few minke whales and small groups of dolphins now appeared in its search area, he said. 'Over the last couple of years our trips have become totally disappointing. In this light I am truly sad to say we are closing down for good.' The announcement prompted a public outcry and a promise from the government to do more to protect fish stocks and marine biodiversity. 'We have to introduce measures to protect this forage species – not just for whales, but for all the other fish stocks and wildlife that depend on it – to prevent the collapse of an entire food web,' Christopher O'Sullivan, the minister responsible for nature and biodiversity, told the Irish Examiner. He said he hoped Ireland would emulate UK curbs on sprat fishing, which were having a positive effect. Demand for fishmeal from fish farms has dramatically increased the fishing of sprats, a small, sardine-like fish that plays a crucial role in the maritime food chain. Sign up to Down to Earth The planet's most important stories. Get all the week's environment news - the good, the bad and the essential after newsletter promotion Mark Gannon, who runs Atlantic Whale and Wildlife Tours from Courtmacsherry, 22 miles east of Unionhall, said the number of whales and dolphins had plummeted since large trawlers began scooping up sprat. 'It's a devastating form of fishing. It's like a farmer taking all the grass out of his fields and expecting his cows to thrive.' However, Gannon said he had invested in a new boat and still offered enthralling excursions, albeit with less wildlife. 'Just today we saw three minke whales,' he said on Friday after a tour. 'Compared to the numbers we had before it's chalk and cheese, but we still have a beautiful coastline. With the right policies, the south of Cork and the west coast of Ireland could be the European capital of marine tourism.' His wife and company co-owner, Trish Gannon, said bookings remained strong. 'I tell people we can guarantee absolutely nothing in terms of sightings and they're still happy to go out.' Patrick Murphy, the chief executive of the Irish South and West Fish Producer's Organisation, said warming waters appeared to be pushing sprat further west and north – where sprat catches have risen sharply – and this accounted for the dwindling whale sightings off Cork. 'We are asking for a proper scientific assessment for this species, so a proper management policy can be developed to ensure the continued sustainability of this important fishery,' he said.

Taking the liberty of including Hermanus in the Garden Route area
Taking the liberty of including Hermanus in the Garden Route area

The Herald

time11-05-2025

  • The Herald

Taking the liberty of including Hermanus in the Garden Route area

Jose Burman is the author of a book called The Garden Route which has seen several editions being printed since 1964. Second-hand copies have become scarce and valuable. Locals in the know, swear by this book which is jam-packed with information, anecdotes and even maps of the area. Burman says: 'The Garden Route proper includes only the area between Mossel Bay and Storms River. Short of arriving there by parachute, however, it is necessary to travel to reach these points. 'In the wider sense, therefore, the Garden Route, is generally accepted to lie between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth.' This description of the area in Burman's book therefore completely warrants a visit to Hermanus. Most of us think Hermanus and we only think whales. Wrong, because though it is a very famous whale-watching destination, which sees foreigners and South Africans flocking here in the winter, this town, which hugs the Walker Bay coast in the Overberg region, rocks for many reasons. There's the sea of course, but it's got so much more on-the-go from hikes, to wine farms, to good restaurants, shopping even. I have a takkie fetish and I don't need not even one more pair, but here in the main shopping drag just off the waterfront in Hermanus, I managed to find a trendy brand I don't have from a surf shop and of course I bought them. There are plenty of bespoke shops here to tempt visitors including art galleries. I first came to know about Hermanus when I worked in Cape Town years ago and locals used to blame Hermanus holiday-home owners for the traffic on a Friday afternoon headed that way, but until now I hadn't visited. Well-heeled South Africans have holiday homes here and there are dozens of guest houses and accommodation establishments to take your pick from. Unless you have many millions to spend, property prices here have shot through the roof as it's a very desirable town to live in. The municipality works, the pavements are clean, there's no sign of urban decay rather a noticeably well-maintained infrastructure. Property agents say Hermanus has seen more younger generations of families relocating here and calling it their home. There are good schools, hospitals and amenities — all the hallmarks of a town that is desirable. We spent two nights at the Hermanus Boutique Guest House overlooking the sea and it was crazy to see two groups of foreign tourists arrive in the late afternoon, head out for supper and leave after breakfast the next morning, something that happens a lot here one of the managers tells me. What a waste of all the super things to do here because you really need a few days to do Hermanus justice. The location of the Hermanus Boutique Guest House screams location, location as it has a prime oceanside position across the road from the scenic coastal path and the famous Fick's tidal pool cradled between rocks — providing a sheltered and safe place for families and children to swim. It's also a central location so that the area can be explored on foot. From our sea-facing patio, from early in the morning until sunset, there is an endless stream of walkers, hot-mommy joggers and cyclists who go by. The Cliff Path, which you pick up directly opposite the guest house, is a perfect option for a scenic stroll along the coastline, with the path hugging the cliffs for more than 10km. This path facilitates walks from the New Harbour all the way to the other end of Hermanus, near the mouth of the Kleinrivier Lagoon. Staying at the Hermanus Boutique Guesthouse is like landing with your bottom in the butter not only from a location point of view. It's a vibey and chic place, the décor reflecting the mood here in Hermanus with coastal blues and sunshine yellow, flashes of turquoise, modern and bright. There are 19 exquisitely appointed suites, catering for a variety of preference and budget, but the pièce de résistance has to be the honeymoon suite, not only because you can lie in bed and watch whales in season. The layout is all about romance with an open-plan bedroom-bathroom (except for the loo thank goodness) including a big tub with jacuzzi jets. If you fill it with bubble bath, the foam floats over to the bed. The shower is big enough for two to share. Hosts are especially friendly, making a real effort to find out what guests want to do and giving them ideas, making dinner reservations even. The Hermanus Boutique Guest House does not do dinners for a good reason. Guests like to get out and about and there are plenty of restaurants in the bustling centre of town a 10-minute walk away. And it's perfectly safe to walk. The old adage of eating breakfast for a king applies here because this meal is included in the rates and is quite something to behold. There are cereals, yoghurt, a fabulous selection of freshly peeled fruit, cheese, cold meat and anything you might like to warm up with before you order a cooked meal. The full-house here is a memorable meal with attention to detail like perfect eggs and I learn their trick of threading edible flowers into a macaroni tube to make a plate of food next level. It's little touches like this that earned the establishment its four stars. The first night there we took an amble and found Rossis Italian Restaurant which serves a meaningful pizza. You can't miss The Burgundy Restaurant, on the very edge of the bay and only a few metres away from Hermanus's historic old harbour. It is open all day and you get to choose a spot on the outdoor terrace. Its chef still goes to the quayside to his seafood supplier, Whale Coast Fisheries, to choose the fresh fish of the day. The Burgundy Restaurant sources its produce from the Hemel en Aarde Farmstall to keep it local. It's casual here and we get to talk to a local retired couple who come here once a week for dinner. We discuss property prices with them and all hopes of living here are dashed. Mandatory on a trip to Hermanus should be a visit to the award-winning Bientang's Cave Restaurant and Wine Bar on the shores of Walker Bay. It's carved into the depths of a century-old cave and unforgettable. A steep flight of stairs takes you down to the restaurant area which is right on the edge of the sea and I have never seen anything quite like this with tables perched right on the rocks so that the sea splashes almost at your feet. In big tides or during storms, the rocks disappear under the water. Our waitress tells me that during peak season, she clocks up 30,000 steps in a day's work from the kitchen down to the rocks and I am not surprised. Bientang's has won a fleet of awards, has an elite wine list focusing on the best the Cape has to offer and there's a vast menu with an emphasis on seafood. It's expensive if you choose the seafood platter, crayfish or pan-flashed tiger prawns, but even if you just go for a coffee on the rocks, you will never forget this setting. Needless to say, during whale-watching season, you will get 100 metres away from them. Throughout the year dolphins, Bryde's whales and the occasional Orca visit — then the main actors, the Southern Right whales come from May until the spring putting on a show just for patrons. Apart from the Cliff Path, Hermanus offers a number of well-maintained walks from easy strolls to the more serious kind. If you have time, the Fernkloof Nature Reserve offers hikers a cornucopia of Cape Floral Kingdom endemic plant life, birds and various walks. Then there's the Hemel-en-Aarde Wine Region boasting several wine farms all a short drive from Hermanus town that you should set aside time for. With views of the valley and soft mountains surrounding you, wine never tasted better. I only have so much space to extol the virtues of Hermanus, so I suggest visit the passionate people at Hermanus Tourism located in the Village Square, Old Harbour, who will give suggestions to keep you busy for days. And while you are there it's worth popping into the Old Harbour Museum and the Whale Museum. The Hermanus Boutique Guest House is part of the Cape Country Routes (CCR), a leading group of owner-operated and managed accommodation and activity establishments — more than 20 privately owned hotels, lodges and guest houses — located on the scenic and historic routes in the Western and Eastern Cape. Book a stay at reservations@ or bookings@ The Herald

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