Fresh twist to spice up Nyonya classics

The Star

21-05-2025

SOMETIMES, it takes only a simple twist to elevate the charm of traditional dishes.
This was seen in the 'Peranakan On Plate' Baba Nyonya buffet dinner by Pullman KLCC Hotels & Residences, Kuala Lumpur in a collaborative effort with Melaka-born cook Teoh Luan Neo.
The 75-year-old Peranakan cook, who has a platform on YouTube called 'Nyonya Melaka Flavours', is sharing popular heritage dishes including Ayam Pongteh with Lotus Leaf Bun, Nyonya Steamed Fish with Buah Keluak and Pang Susi (Eurasian sweet potato buns with spiced meat filing) at Sedap Restaurant.
For her ayam pongteh, Teoh leveraged on the taste and texture of white mantou (Chinese steamed bun) to enhance the overall presentation.
Ayam pongteh with mantou.
The pillowy soft mantou stuffed with shiitake mushroom, lettuce and tender chicken pieces make for an appetising treat.
A bite into the savoury chicken gives a hint of gula melaka.
Teoh said gula melaka is an ingredient crucial to 'make ayam pongteh taste like ayam pongteh'.
Besides the signature dishes, diners can savour other Nyonya dishes, from Teoh's recipe book, which are part of the buffet.
Two particularly noteworthy dishes are E Pian Fish with Nyonya Chilli Sauce and Ngo Hiang (chicken lobak).
E Pian Fish with Nyonya Chilli Sauce.
Both of these umami-rich dishes are a testament to Teoh's cooking skills.
Wrapped within a thin layer of beancurd sheets are chicken pieces and diced carrots sprinkled with five-spice powder for a savoury and tasty deep-fried lobak.
Diners can cruise through a sensory experience of flavours when savouring the Nyonya Asam Prawn.
The initial salty, sour flavours followed by satisfying sweetness come together beautifully when tasting this pleasing prawn dish.
Tamarind is the star here, without which the asam prawn loses its appeal.
This popular ingredient brings tangy notes to awaken the palate, giving the asam prawn its bold, briny taste.
Crunchy pai tee.
Then there's pai tee – thin, crispy pastry shells stuffed with vegetables.
It is not only eye-catching but also a signature Nyonya dish that is hard to refuse.
The natural sweetness of cooked jicama encased in crunchy pastry shells and served with chilli sauce make for an unforgettable bite.
In the Chap Chai Goreng (stir-fried mixed vegetables), the mixture of cabbage, dried beancurd stick, shrimps, vermicelli and black fungus offer much texture and taste.
With their softness and melt-in-the-mouth silkiness, the vermicelli and black fungus stand out among the various ingredients.
As a passionate home cook, Teoh dedicates time to finding ways to make traditional dishes taste better.
'I inherited most of the recipes from my mother. By adding in my own twist to these dishes, I am able to make them tastier and more presentable,' she said.
Besides Nyonya dishes, the buffet at Sedap also has various other cuisines.
From the Western corner is the Roasted Lamb with Black Pepper Sauce which is a must-try dish.
The tender lamb with a delicate balance of fat and lean meat is lovely with mild spiciness of black pepper sauce.
The Malaysian favourite of chicken and beef satay is on the menu too, served with nutty, savoury, sweet peanut sauce.
Cendol Pulut Tai-tai and ABC.
For desserts, Cendol Pulut Tai-Tai and ABC are among the must-haves.
On top of the basic combination of shaved ice, red bean and cendol, there are other condiments such as cincau, longan, lychee and shredded peanuts.
The aromatic and chewy pulut tai-tai (pressed glutinous rice) is a kuih that I enjoy very much.
Here, diners can immerse the pulut tai-tai in a mixture of coconut milk and gula melaka, and discover delicate sweetness and refreshing coolness all at once.
Look out for the dessert corner where there are various other local kuih.
Onde-onde with gula melaka packed within little light green spheres is always eye-catching and tempting.
When bitten into, this particular kuih spills out silky caramelised palm sugar that delights with its toffee-like flavour.
Deep-fried chicken lobak.
There's also Pandan Coconut Tart topped with a small slice of pineapple.
The 'Peranakan On Plate' buffet is served until June 1.
It is available every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from 6.30pm to 10pm.
It is priced at RM158 per adult while children aged six to 12 years old will be charged RM79 per person.
Children below six years old dine for free.
SEDAP Restaurant, Pullman KLCC Hotel and Residences, 4, Jalan Conlay, Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: [phone]). Business hours: 6.30am to 10pm, daily.
This is the writer's personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.