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This Small Italian City Is a Quieter Alternative to Florence
The cheesemaking process involves strict rules and regulations, including precisely where it can be produced, as I learned early one morning while watching cheesemakers work fresh milk into curds at Caseificio Montecoppe, a family-run dairy. True Parmigiano Reggiano must be made using a fully natural process, without any additives, the same way it's been done for hundreds of years.
Spend a few days in Parma and you'll eat some of the most delicious food you've ever had in your life. After all, Parma is located in Emilia Romagna, the region known as Italy's Food Valley. It was even designated a Creative City for Gastronomy by UNESCO.
At family-run restaurants like Trattoria Ai Due Platani and Parma Rotta, the quality of the ingredients shines. Even the gelato is made using the same milk that goes into Parmigiano Reggiano. And there are many more local specialties—just think about prosciutto di Parma and balsamic vinegar from nearby Modena, the city that's home to Massimo Bottura's three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana.
Aside from the food, Parma has a rich history full of art and culture that can be seen all over the historic center. Established during the Roman Empire, Parma became prosperous during the Renaissance, when it was ruled by the powerful Farnese dukes, who left their mark on the city with projects like the Farnese Theater and Palatine Library, both part of the Palazzo della Pilotta museum complex in a historic palace built for the Farnese dynasty. When I visited the museum one afternoon during my trip, I found myself alone face to face with a Da Vinci—unthinkable in busy, crowded Florence.
Though Florence is Italy's most famous city for Renaissance art and architecture, the arts and culture flourished in Parma, too, during that period. Homegrown talents like Correggio and Parmigianino painted masterpieces, including the ceiling frescoes inside the Camera di San Paolo in the Benedictine convent of Saint Paul. I marveled at the ceilings nearly alone, save for a couple of other visitors.
It's no wonder Parma is considered one of Italy's most livable cities. The city is flat, so many locals get around by bike, but it's easy to walk too, especially in the compact historic center. Strolling around the cobblestone streets, it's easy to appreciate the city's charm and quality of life. Lively but not crowded, full of fantastic places to eat and things to do, Parma is a city that makes it easy to experience an authentic side of Italy.
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