‘He is keeping his cards close to his chest': Pope Leo's first three months
Not only was he the first American pope, the tiny religious order that Leo, formerly Cardinal Robert Prevost, ran for 12 years had also just produced its first pontiff in the history of the Roman Catholic church. Still somewhat bewildered by his election, he had a yearning to see his fellow Augustinian brothers.
Over lunch, Leo spoke about the sudden change to his life and how he would need to renounce his pleasure of driving or freely going for a walk.
'He appeared very tense on TV so it was nice to see him more relaxed,' said Pasquale Cormio, the rector of the Basilica of St Augustine in central Rome's Campo Marzio, who met Leo during their priesthood training. 'He was aware of the weight of the role, but said: 'Look, I assure you, I will never give up being your brother'.'
The new pope's first months – he marks three months as pontiff this week – have been relatively low-key despite hosting plenty of audiences, and the Augustinian emphasis on unity, listening widely, community and collaboration appear to have guided him. Leo's style starkly contrasts with his often divisive and hasty Jesuit predecessor, the late Pope Francis, even though they shared similar progressive political views.
Francis, elected in 2013, snubbed the Vatican's traditional trappings by choosing to live in a room in a humble guesthouse rather than the Apostolic Palace, ditching its fancy cars for a modest Fiat and opting out of spending his summers in the papal palace in Castel Gandolfo, a hilltop town close to Rome.
Francis also moved swiftly on making key appointments, travelled to Brazil on his first overseas trip after just a few months in office, and made several bold statements, including saying 'who am I to judge?' when discussing homosexuality.
Leo, on the other hand, has restored some Vatican customs – using less modest means of travel, living in the Apostolic Palace and resuming papal holidays in Castel Gandolfo.
'One of the ways the world got to know Francis was through his gestures,' said Christopher White, the author of the recently published book Pope Leo XIV: Inside the Conclave and the Dawn of a New Papacy. He described him as an extrovert who 'liked being around people'.
Leo, 69, is an introvert. 'He's very much a quiet manager, someone who likes to do his homework,' added White. 'He hasn't yet made any top appointments but he has held lots of audiences – as a way to listen. He's figuring out how he's going to run the show and is keeping his cards close to his chest.'
One area where he has been quick to exert himself is geopolitics, White said. The pontiff has twice met the Ukrainian president, Volodymyr Zelenskyy, has spoken by phone to the Russian president, Vladimir Putin, and has repeatedly affirmed the Vatican's willingness to host Ukrainian-Russian peace talks.
He has also become more robust in his condemnation of Israel's war in Gaza, even more so after three people were killed by Israeli shelling of the strip's only Catholic church. The pontiff received a phone call from the Israeli prime minister, Benjamin Netanyahu, after the strike, during which he pushed for an end to the conflict. Two days later, in his strongest words against the conflict yet, he condemned the 'barbarity' and Israel's 'indiscriminate use of force' after 93 people were killed while waiting for food.
'Leo is moving cautiously but he is more clear in his denunciation of the Israeli government,' said Marco Politi, a Vatican journalist and author of the book The Unfinished Revolution: The Church After Francis. 'This represents a problem for Israel because, unlike Francis, who might have been considered a bit reckless and gaffe-prone, it proves that nothing has changed in the Vatican's continued support of Palestinian rights.'
Unlike the Jesuits, whose structure is more hierarchical, Politi said Leo clearly signalled how he would lead the church during his inauguration mass homily when he said the pope 'is not a lone leader or a leader placed above others'. This approach was evident when he handed the microphone to Pietro Parolin, the Vatican's secretary of state, and Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the Catholic Latin patriarch of Jerusalem, to initially speak out after the attack on the Gaza church. 'He doesn't want to be like Francis who worked alone and who made decisions alone,' added Politi.
Geopolitics aside, Leo's main initial task has been to foster unity in a church divided by some of Francis's policies. That said, his papacy is expected to more or less continue along the progressive path laid by his predecessor.
'We mustn't forget that during conclave, the ultra-conservatives wanted to put Francis's politics on trial,' said Politi. 'But they failed, and that's why Leo was chosen – to send a signal that the church is moving forward, not backward.'
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Find a restaurant by type: Best all-rounders Best for families Best for cheap eats Best for fine dining Best for walk-ins Best all-rounders Canalha When Chef João Rodrigues left Feitoria, above, he changed his previous Michelin-style cuisine for something more fun. Step up Canalha, a buzzy restaurant with a real neighbourhood vibe. Start with perfectly crisp codfish cakes and then order the scarlet prawn in garlic, with fried egg and chips or the prawn and onion open tortilla and sit back and watch João and resident chef, Brazilian Livia Orofino, dish up the delights in the open kitchen. Prado Exquisitely balanced, ingredient-led, farm-to-table food served with beguiling simplicity in a low-key, large and leafy space is what makes Prado unmissable when in Lisbon. The urban restaurant is housed in a former 19th-century factory for candied fruit and biscuits, which Ark Studio have designed to brim with a feel of a pastoral paradise, greenery cascading over white walls. At the stove is the young and very talented António Galapito, who celebrates Portugal's bounty with dazzling dishes. Santa Joana The flagship restaurant of the new hotel Locke de Santa Joana comes with Portuguese-born, London-based Nuno Mendes at the helm. Promising 'fun-dining, rather than fine-dining', dishes here celebrate the best of Portugal – shrimp, cockles and mussels from the Algarve, pork from the Alentejo and cheese from the Azores. Try the chickpea fritters, smoked pork chouriço and pickles before a slow-poached hake, with charred fennel and smoky butter sauce, amidst beautiful interiors by Lázaro Rosa Violán. Area: Avenida da Liberdade Website: Prices: ££ Reservations: Essential Ramiro Cerveja This much-loved restaurant is famous for its fresh seafood and has been going strong for more than 70 years. The neighbourhood is named after the Moors who were allowed to live here after the Christian re-conquest of Lisbon in 1147. Choose your fare from the giant aquariums with spider crabs and rock lobster. But start with the house pata negra (smoked ham) or a plate of garlicky clams and finish with the delicious azeitão cheese. Tapisco A fun, buzzy atmosphere combined with excellent, tasty bites from the Iberian Peninsula make this a popular option for a quick lunch or dinner. Taking its name from a merging of Spanish Tapas and Portuguese Petisco, Chef Henrique Sa Pessoa highlights the best of both worlds. Try the fried cuttlefish with coriander mayonnaise and lime but start with a drink from the seriously impressive list of Vermouths and red and white wines from either side of the border. Brilhante A timeless, French-inspired, brasserie which just ticks all the boxes. Interiors mix wood panelling with brass studded red leather, red velvet, fringed lamps, and curtained windows. Try the oysters or the blinis with salmon to start with, or the veal croquettes with a selection of mustards. Follow it with their signature steak Brilhante, a twist on a century old, popular, Lisbon dish, steak à Marrare, or a just perfect sole Meunierè with truffle mashed potatoes. JNcQOUI Every city has a see and be seen restaurant, which delivers glamour in equal measure to good food; JNcQOUI is Lisbon's. This is the first JNcQOUI, a growing empire, but should be your starting point. Designed by Lázaro Rosa-Violán, the room is dominated by a dinosaur skeleton, with an open plan kitchen at one end. Try the prawn and lobster with truffle mayonnaise on avocado or, if you want to go local, the codfish gratin. BAHR Perfect on a sunny day when you can sit on the terrace and soak up the views over Lisbon's red roofs to the River Tagus beyond, BAHR serves classic Portuguese ingredients, beautifully presented, with a contemporary flair. A perfect balance between comfort food (smoked barnacles on toast), modern (prawns, endives and yuzu) and traditional (Portuguese scarlet prawn rice) – every dish delights. Also good for brunch at the weekends when you have time to linger. Sea Me Buzzing, crowded, fun and lip-smackingly good, Sea Me is described as a modern fishmonger. At the back they have a sushi bar, where Asia meets Portugal. In the front you can buy fish alongside ordering the catch of the day for your table. Try the seafood selection from the market, which includes oysters and shellfish, or fish soup with coriander, before opting for the shrimp curry or octopus with onion, olive oil and garlic. Café de São Bento A Lisbon classic, going strong for more than 40 years, this is one for meat lovers. They are famous for their steak à São Bento, tender sirloin served in a creamy sauce with French fries. But you could start with a Vesper Martini, followed by a steak tartare and finish with a lime pie. Rather club-like in atmosphere, you need to ring the bell for admittance; once in, service is flawless. Boubou's You can choose a table at the counter to watch the action in the open kitchen or opt for a table in the plant-filled, private courtyard of this charming, family-run restaurant. Chef Louise Bourrat, winner of French television show Top Chef in 2022, delivers original dishes with an obviously feminine touch. Think asparagus, kumquat, elderflower. Wine, selected by Charlie Bourrat, is equally impressive with many great Portuguese labels, so indulge in a wine-pairing menu. Best for families Páteo Considered one of the best places for young children to be entertained whilst parents enjoy some of Portugal's finest fish and seafood. While adults can indulge in dishes like char-grilled octopus with black rice or oven-baked cod with cornbread and chorizo crust, youngsters can choose a pizza from the kid's menu or a Portuguese classic like chicken piri-piri, loved by all ages alike, and set about creating beautiful art with the crayons and paper provided. Area: Chiado Website: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended Seen A fun spot for older teenagers (only over 13's accepted) with a cool and sophisticated vibe, and sweeping rooftop views over Lisbon. Seen has great cocktails (like the Wasabi Papi – wasabi with gin, lemongrass, ginger and lime) and a wide choice of cuisine. Try the Wagyu burgers with memorable truffle fries or the Portuguese pica-pau (beef tenderloin with beef broth and mustard sauce) or sashimi and miso black cod. Also open for lunch, dinner is accompanied by live DJ's. Terrace While in the same district as the Oceanarium and the hugely popular Pavilion of Knowledge, it makes sense to fit in lunch or dinner too. The best places for families to head is the Terrace Restaurant in Martinhal Lisbon Oriente, part of the family-friendly Martinhal group. There is a menu of purees for babies and toddlers as well as favourites like spaghetti bolognese for older children. Parents meanwhile can order off the Asian-inspired menu. Best for cheap eats Taberna The deliciously simple tavern food here is a Lisbon favourite. In the shadow of huge hams hanging from the ceilings and a counter with the best of Portugal's cheeses, delve into favourites such as the Prego (beefsteak) sandwich with mustard butter, made from the typical bolo do caco flatbread. But don't miss the traditional beef croquettes or the octopus with garlic, kimchi sauce and sweet potato. Finish with a glass of port and Taberna's own chocolate cake. Area: Chiado Website: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Liberta Kitchen Liberta Kitchen entices with its affordable Italian cuisine from talented Chef Silvio Armanni, whose product-driven menu draws on the best seasonal ingredients from both Portugal (think beef from the Azores, clams from the Algarve) and his home country (polenta from Rovetto, olives from Sicily, flatbread from Sardinia) to ensure you return and return. Not to be missed are his home-made meat ravioli, casoncelli alla Bergamasca, with pancetta, sage, brown butter and parmesan. Las dos Manos Situated right opposite one of Lisbon's scenic points, or miradouros, this Mexican restaurant fused with Japanese touches proves as much of an attraction with its dazzling turquoise tiles and mural of Frida Kalho as the view opposite of the capital's red-roofs. At the helm is acclaimed chef Kiko Martins, who here delivers a fresh and vibrant take on Mexican cuisine, weaving the best of Portuguese ingredients and Japanese techniques through a Mexican base. Magnolia Set in Praça das Flores, where much of Lisbon seems to gather in the evenings, a table at tiny Magnolia is hard to come by. Open every evening for dinner and Thursdays to Mondays for brunch, the fare is simple. Brunch offers dishes such as shakshouka, whilst the baked camembert with honey or the tuna tartare are favourites at dinner. Wines here are also a draw, with natural and organic bottles from Portugal and further afield. SNOB Open since 1964, this is one of Lisbon's most iconic addresses. Frequented by politicians and presidents, writers such as José Saramago, film makers and intellectuals, this is a place where journalists came to discuss history in the making. With its small wooden tables, brass lamps and dim lighting and its menu, mostly untouched over the decades, this offers a glimpse of a Portugal from yesteryear. Famous for its meat croquettes and steaks, with home-made, crunchy, French fries. Area: Bairro Alto Website: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Best for fine dining Feitoria Feitoria is found right on the banks of the River Tagus in historical Belém, where the great Portuguese explorers set sail. This gourmet restaurant, with a gold Nanban panel at its entrance, pays homage to the spices found on those journeys, weaving them through the menu. Chef Andre Cruz serves two tasting menus based on roots and leaves, each paired with a vegetarian option. Wine pairing is expertly done with little known gems from around the country. Area: Belém Website: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential Cura Cura raised the gastronomic bar in Lisbon when it opened with Portuguese Chef Pedro Pena Bastos setting the tone with dishes such as turbot paired with black trumpet mushrooms, barnacles and lemon grass or onion with black truffle, buckwheat and lemon-thyme. Best though was the squid; a delectable dish with hazelnuts, bergamot, roasted seaweed butter and caviar. It even outshone the elegant interiors by Miguel Cancio Martins. Now in the hands of previous sous-chef Rodolfo Lavrador. Alma This warm and welcoming restaurant has simple interiors of stone floors, wooden tables and vaulted stone arches, all illuminated by bronze lamps. In the open kitchen you will find Henrique Sá Pessoa, who won his first Michelin star here in 2017 and second in 2019. Low ceilings and the intimate atmosphere allow you to concentrate on the plates which lay the foodie heart of Portugal before you. Don't miss the scarlet shrimp with pumpkin, harissa and black garlic. Sala by João Sá João Sá displays his passion for the ocean in his sublime tasting menus. Here you find the typical Portuguese flavours of caldo verde soup reimagined into a clear broth, or clams à bulhão pato encased in a bite-sized tartlette. The small and charming restaurant sits near the waterfront, in an area with a rich multcultural history. João also pays homage to his Angolan heritage and the culinary melting pot of his beloved Lisbon. Belcanto A must if you want to understand the nuances of Portuguese cuisine, the traditions that the country holds close and the flavours they hold even closer. Here you will feel the Lisbon light that reflects off the Tagus River, the pull of the sea woven through the DNA of the people and you will taste Chef José Avillez's signature dishes over the years from The Garden of the Goose that laid the golden eggs to his suckling pig with orange peel purée. Area: Chiado Website: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential Kabuki Justly rewarded with a Michelin star for its skilful fusion of Japanese and Spanish cuisine. Opt for the tasting menu with delicacies from Wagyu teriyaki to hamachi with ponzu, or choose from wide variety on the a la carte menu, which includes sushi, nigiri sushi, makis and temaki. Not to be missed are the scallops with foie gras or the Pa Amb Tomaquet where tuna meets the Spanish combination of bread and tomato. Marlene In a glass fronted building near Lisbon's cruise terminal, Portugal's only current female Michelin star holder delivers a symphony of flavours. In a tasting menu of either nine or 12 moments, expect dishes such as a choux bun of cured sheep cheese and truffle, stone crab with avocado or a memorable combination of morels and hazlenuts. Sit at the counter surrounding the open kitchen, to watch the team at work, adding the pleasure of anticipation to the experience. Arkhe Open for lunch, as well as dinner, during the week, unusual on Lisbon's fine-dining scene, Arkhe is well worth a visit at any time of the day. Awarded with a Michelin star this year, it offers vegetarian and vegan dishes with trademark delicate sauces. A partnership between Chef João Ricardo Alves and sommelier/front of house Alejandro Chávarro. The interior of the restaurant, with its mellow, exposed stone, adds to the pleasure of the whole experience. Area: Chiado Website: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended Best for walk-ins A Taberna da Rua das Flores Taking you back to the Lisbon of old (and be warned it is cash only here), this little tavern, with acclaimed chef, André Magalhães at the helm, serves traditional dishes with a contemporary twist. It might offer sardines one night, clams another, lunch might be cod salad with chickpeas but everything will be full of flavour with wines from all over Portugal that impress just as much. Basically, it is worth joining the inevitable queue at the door. Area: Chiado Contact: @tabernadasflores; 00351 21 347 9418 Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only A Cevicheria No reservations are taken here, which often means a queue at the door, but they do serve drinks through the hatch while you are waiting. Highly recommended is their Pisco Sour. Once inside, in a small restaurant, dominated by a large (model) octopus suspended from the ceiling, try the shrimp ceviche with sweet potato, the potato causita with Algarvian prawns or anticuchos of black pork belly with roasted octopus. An intoxicating blend of Portugal and Peru. JNcQUOI Delibar Avenida The perfect place to drop in when you decide to treat yourself on a whim or want a fun catch up with a friend, this is tucked under their main restaurant. Start with a signature martini (Absolut Elyx, passion fruit and chilli) before ordering oysters or a lobster hot dog, a truffled beef tartare or a selection of Portugal's best cheeses. Save room to indulge in their creamy tiramisu and ice-cream, it is worth it. Area: Avenida da Liberdade Website: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest opening and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Mary Lussiana I have lived in southern Portugal for over 20 years. When in Lisbon, you can find me chatting with the chef at the latest culinary hotspot, checking out a new rooftop bar or sampling the newest hotel on the block.
