Savouring history: a reflection on food, art and culture
Dear Lahore foodies,
Calling Gadrung an eatery would be like referring to Monalisa merely as a painting and the Sistine Chapel ceiling as a fresco to decorate the building. In the first instance, Da Vinci's portrait is not just a representation of a woman but an example of the humanistic ideals of the European Renaissance. It has captivated its audience over the centuries with enduring mystique, technical brilliance and cultural impact. The second artwork, I shall say, illustrates much of the doctrine of the Catholic Church. Several 15th-century artists had already contributed to rationalising this vision in the Vatican City.
Yet, the Chapel's ceiling, painted by Michelangelo based on stories from The Book of Genesis, with 'The Creation of Adam' at its centre, proved to be a thing of beauty and passion. When the chapel opened to the public, people from everywhere rushed to see it and the sight alone was sufficient to leave them amazed and speechless. The scene can be considered the closest visual representation of 'Kun Fayakoon', only if the viewer understands the concept of art as a cultural expression that does not and should not always cater to or challenge religious beliefs.
Visiting Gadrung yesterday was nostalgic. Reconnecting with an old associate from NCA, Shireen Bano, the mastermind behind the project, was refreshing. An academic and a miniature painter by training Shireen celebrates her family's Deccani roots through this cozy, homely dining place where everything is prepared with affection and attention. She cherishes growing up in a Hindustani household, one that is usually celebrated in novels by Qurat-ul Ain Haider or Razia Butt. If you're unfamiliar with these references, a refresher course in Urdu literature might be in order.
Given the time and patience required for a 1000-page novel, I would suggest exploring the 80's PTV spectacle with several dramas set in the typical 20th century Indian, Muslim household. If Urdu is an issue, go for Salt and Saffron by Kamila Shamsie. The novel explores feminist identity in diverse contexts, drawing heavily on the region's cultural history to crystallise a postmodern, postcolonial perspective on the subject. What is more interesting is that Shamsie refers to food as a common interest that can bring people closer.
The sumptuous Hyderabadi cuisine, the ambiance and the chit-chat with Shireen also rekindled an old passion for doing a contemporary cookbook (this one for my darling Mehroze) to match the spirit of Naimatnama-i Nasirudin Shahi — a 15th-century Persian manuscript. The English translation, The Book of Delights, is fondly reviewed as a recipe book that somewhat diminishes the authenticity and robust approach of its patron, the Sultan of Malwa. While a recipe book provides instructions on how to prepare a certain dish, a cookbook is much more than that. A cookbook, at its best, is also a chronicle and treasury of the fine art of cooking, an art whose masterpieces — created only to be consumed — would otherwise be lost.
Naimatnama is known for its detailed recipes, illustrations and insights into the culinary practices and courtly life of the period. If interested, one may learn about socio-political situations, systems of knowledge production and transmission and transculturation to the extent of tracing trade routes. The recipes are detailed and illustrated with notes on the sides. The illustrations are Persian in appeal with a strong indication of an emerging 'Indo-Persian' style of painting that would fully develop in the later century under the Mughal patronage.
The Naimatnama's significance also lies in its role as a precursor to later Mughal culinary texts, including Ain-i-Akbari, Alwan-e-Naimat and Nuskha-i-Shahjahani. However, the earliest surviving specimen I know of is a 2nd-century treatise written by a Greek gourmet in the form of a dialogue between two banqueters who talk for days and relate recipes for dishes such as stuffed vine leaves and a variety of cheesecake. The said book also mentions at least 20 texts that preceded it, Pleasant Living from 350 BC being one.
Long live the Lahori passion of khabas.
Bano
June, 2025
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