This City Is Known As the ‘Kitchen of Japan'—and It Wants You to Eat Until You Go Broke

Travel + Leisure

11 hours ago

Make a wish—and see others' dreams come true—amid thousands of daruma dolls at Katsuoji Temple.
Get lost in the glowing orbs of the magical forest installation at teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka.
Savor every crispy bite of the chef's kushikatsu tasting course at Kushiage Comet.
Take in stunning views of the skyline from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Waldorf Astoria Osaka, one of the newest hotels in the city.
See the city from above with a ride on the massive, 480-passenger Tempozan Ferris Wheel.
Walking through the streets of Osaka at twilight is an experience for all the senses. Among the sparkling neon lights of Dotonbori Canal, the scent of freshly fried okonomiyaki (savory Japanese pancakes), and the laughter of locals spilling out from the open-air arcades, it's easy to lose yourself in the rhythm of this lively city.
Osaka is always an excellent destination, no matter the reason, but it's an especially good choice for first-time visitors. Located in the central Kansai region, it's easy to take day trips to other nearby, popular cities such as Hiroshima, Nara, and Kyoto. But you may find it hard to leave the city, given the vast amount of (delicious) things to eat, see, and do. It is known as the "Kitchen of Japan," after all.
In fact, there's a saying in Osaka known as " kuidaore ," which literally means to eat until you go broke. With a compact layout and hundreds of restaurants, this is the perfect place to stroll between shops, sampling one delicacy after another.
I love visiting Osaka, but since I'm based close to Tokyo, I tapped a local to get the insider scoop on what to do here. Chris Xu lives in Osaka and works for a firm that supports foreign employees as they transition to life in Japan. For Xu, a big part of the city's charm is its casual, laidback atmosphere—it strikes a sharp contrast to Tokyo. "There's a high likelihood that the shop staff will strike up a conversation," he says. "They love to make small talk.'
Here's what you need to know before planning a trip to Osaka.
A guest room at the Waldorf Astoria Osaka.
With an opening date of April 2025, this is one of Osaka's newest hotels and the first Waldorf Astoria in Japan. This Art Deco-inspired masterpiece was designed by André Fu, the Hong Kong-based architect behind other iconic hotels like the Shangri-La in Tokyo, and Villa La Coste in Aix-en-Provence, France. Each of the 252 guest rooms and suites has floor-to-ceiling windows, with stunning views of the city skyline, Osaka Bay, and the Yodo River. Though there are certainly many places to eat in the city, there are four solid on-site dining options, including Tsukimi, a sushi and teppanyaki spot, and Peacock Alley, which specializes in afternoon tea.
The Patina Osaka is a retreat focused on rest and relaxation. You can pamper yourself at the heated indoor swimming pool, book a wellness session complete with an infrared sauna, or press pause on your day by sitting down to a decadent white peach and jasmine afternoon tea. The sky lobby on the 20th floor looks out towards Osaka Castle, making for an interesting juxtaposition of contemporary luxury and the city's historic past. Xu loves staying at hotels near Osaka Castle, such as the Patina. 'While it is still in the middle of the city, it remains so peaceful," he says.
When Four Seasons Hotel Osaka opened in Aug. 2024, it became the brand's fourth property in Japan, following outposts in places like Kyoto and Tokyo. Travelers can enjoy all the luxurious bells and whistles that they've come to expect from a Four Seasons, such as standout dining options, luxurious bedding, and top-notch service. There's a grand total of 175 rooms, including 154 Western-style units and 21 Japanese ryokan -style options. As for food, there's the French-inspired Farine for breakfast and Jiang Nan Chun, a Cantonese eatery that serves dim sum classics like salted egg and chicken puff pastry and roast duck, for lunch and dinner. The spa is a true gem, with a robust menu of treatments and ofuros , aka traditional Japanese soaking tubs.
The exterior of the Namba Yasaka Shrine in Osaka.
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For an escape from the busy shopping streets of Namba, pop around the corner to the famous Namba Yasaka Shrine. The entrance is unmistakable—just look for the giant lion's head. The open mouth, large enough to fit a crowd of people inside, is wildly photogenic. Local legend says that if you enter the mouth, the lion will swallow your evil spirits, leaving you purified. Open 24 hours a day, the shrine itself is quite small, making it a quick and convenient stop. Pick up a red lion's head keychain to remember your visit, and carry the good luck with you on the rest of your journey through Japan.
Also called "Victory Temple," this is arguably one of the most unique temples in Osaka. Visitors will find thousands of daruma dolls here, neatly and carefully placed all around the property. For a little cultural context: daruma dolls are papier-mâché figurines that are used to make wishes. When a daruma doll is first bought, both eyes are white and blank. You fill in one eye when making a wish, and then, when the wish comes true, you fill in the other, and (ideally) bring it back to the shrine you originally purchased it from as an offering. Although this was once a place where warring military leaders prayed for victory in battle in the days of yore, it's now a temple where everyday folks come to wish upon their hopes and dreams.
Jun Kataoka is the tour office coordinator for Visitour Japan, a Japan-based, Spanish-speaking tour agency. Kataoka has lived in Osaka since 2003, and Katsuo-ji is one of his favorite places to visit. 'From the moment you step through the gates, you're greeted with thousands of eyes of Daruma,' says Kataoka. He says seeing so many of the little red dolls in one place is unlike anything he—and most visitors—have ever seen.
For a surreal evening experience, head to the nighttime open-air museum of teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka. Located in Nagai Botanical Garden, this exhibit sprawls out over the property, with its eye-catching lake and lush foliage. Wander through LED creatures dancing in the trees, lanterns suspended over the water, or translucent orbs that glow with all the colors of the rainbow. The teamLab exhibit is also worth visiting in every season, and is meant to demonstrate humankind's deep relationship with nature. It's easy to get lost in the magic, so plan to spend an hour or two here exploring.
Fresh sushi in Osaka, Japan.
FrancescoDining at Kirameki is a sublime experience, with first-class teppanyaki cuisine. Guests can indulge in premium rank wagyu, which can be served five different ways and is prepared tableside, so you can sip on a classic Suntory Hibiki Whisky highball while you watch the show. The intimate restaurant is located on a quiet side street of the central tourist area of Dotonbori, making Kirameki the perfect choice for a special evening out on the town.
Okay, okay. I know there are hundreds of Japanese dessert options in the city. But after a busy day of exploring Osaka, there's nothing quite like treating yourself to some of the best Italian-style gelato you may ever eat. The owner of Gelateria Circo D'oro trained in Italy, and Sicilian Pistachio is one of the shop's most popular flavors. If you're looking for more Japanese fusion flavors, try the citrusy yuzu sherbet, which uses wild yuzu from Umaji village in Kochi Prefecture. "The gelato is incredibly fresh, and made daily in the back of the shop," Xu says. "The affogato is [also] out of this world."
Okonomiyaki is one of Osaka's signature dishes, and a must-try while you're here. A thin batter is mixed with shredded cabbage, heaped high with your choice of thinly sliced pork, beef, or seafood, and grilled tableside. The finished product resembles a cross between a savory pancake and a pizza, and is garnished with a drizzle of mayonnaise, a brush of sweet sauce, and a dusting of powdered seaweed. At Ajikuraya, there are six different okonomiyaki sauces and 20 toppings, so you can experiment with a variety and customize them exactly to your liking. Ajikuraya has tables that seat up to six people, making it an ideal choice for families and larger groups. 'Definitely order one tonpeiyaki to share,' Xu says. 'It's grilled pork belly wrapped up in an omelette. The first time I tried it, I was blown away.'
A trip to Osaka wouldn't be complete without a taste of Osaka's soul food, kushikatsu . The dish consists of a variety of skewered meats and vegetables that are lightly breaded and deep-fried. 'Historically, it's always been an affordable street food,' says Xu. He notes that the dipping sauce it's usually served with is similar to sweet Worcestershire. Kushiage Comet is one of Xu's favorite restaurants to eat kushikatsu because he loves the 'premium ingredients such as wagyu beef and specialty vegetables [that are sourced] from all over Japan" The canal flowing through Osaka's Namba district.
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Many people think of Namba when they picture shopping in Osaka—it's simply iconic. 'Namba is known for being a very lively neighborhood, especially at night,' says Xu. In this popular entertainment district, travelers can stroll along the Dotonbori canal under the glowing neon signs, including the famous Glico Running Man, all while sampling street food stalls and popping in and out of department stores and boutiques alike. Definitely visit Namba to get a real taste of Osaka's high-energy, high-wattage atmosphere.
A bustling business district, Umeda is perhaps best known for its towering skyscrapers, such as the Umeda Sky Building with its floating garden observatory and panoramic views of the city. There are dozens of shopping complexes in Umeda, and it ranks as one of the largest commercial districts in Japan. Both the Nintendo Osaka store and the Pokémon Center Osaka are located in Umeda, making it a fun place to visit for all members of your family, young and old. Umeda is centrally located, so it's easy to reach other attractions like Universal Studios Japan in under 10 minutes on the Shinkansen , aka the bullet train.
Tempozan Harbor Village offers the best of both worlds, with sweeping coastal views and a busy commercial district. The Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, one of the largest aquariums in the world, is located here, as is the Legoland Discovery Center Osaka. Tempozan Marketplace has a wide variety of shops and restaurants, making it easy to spend an entire afternoon in the area. However, a visit to Tempozan isn't complete without a ride on the giant Ferris wheel, which can hold up to 480 passengers and provides panoramic views of Osaka Bay and Mount Rokkō during a 15-minute ride. Fall foliage around Osaka's Minoh Falls.Spring and autumn are arguably the best seasons to visit Osaka, thanks to their mild temperatures and beautiful seasonal displays of cherry blossoms and fall foliage. Spring sees the streets filled with pastel pink sakura trees in full bloom, while autumn brings a collage of reds, oranges, and yellows, and crunchy leaves beneath your feet. If you're looking for smaller crowds (and great deals on hotel rates) winter is a good option as well, with gorgeous illuminations and plentiful Christmas shopping opportunities. While summer brings heat and humidity, there is no shortage of spots to cool off—you can always hop into a shopping arcade or treat yourself to a cool, icy dessert. Aerial view of Osaka station.
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Shin-Osaka Station is a major rail hub and is serviced by the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen. If you're traveling by bullet train, you can get to Osaka from Tokyo in approximately 2.5 hours or in just 15 minutes if you're coming from Kyoto. Osaka's Kansai International Airport (KIX) is around 32 miles (about a 45-minute drive) from the city center, and has plenty of domestic and international flight optuion. Osaka is also quickly becoming a popular cruise destination, and Osaka Port regularly welcomes ships from all over Japan and the world. People walking around the narrow streets of Osaka, Japan.
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It is not only pleasant to explore Osaka on foot, but is highly recommended. 'Osaka is very compact,' says Kataoka. 'From Umeda to Shinsaibashi to Namba, you could walk the entire stretch if you wanted. That path has everything: shopping, restaurants, and souvenirs." The city is also served by the Osaka Metro as well as a bus network, with most stations staffed with helpful attendants who are ready to assist travelers should they have any questions. Japan's national transportation cards, Suica and Pasmo, both work across all modes of transportation in Osaka, and can be charged at any convenience store. Better yet, add one of the cards to your phone's digital wallet so you can top it up on the go.