US officials make big decision that could transform the fashion industry: 'Unleash American energy'
The Environmental Protection Agency has launched a series of actions deregulating United States industries and their environmental impact.
These actions affect the fashion industry and could halt its progress toward becoming more sustainable, Vogue reported, hurting both the planet and people.
The push includes 31 initiatives to "unleash American energy," according to the EPA. Reconsidering regulations on power plants, regulations on the oil and gas industry, the Mercury and Air Toxics Standards, and the Greenhouse Gas Reporting Program are part of the plan.
Eliminating the Greenhouse Gas Reporting Program, which requires about 8,000 facilities to report their emissions annually, would weaken regulation on textile mills' and apparel factories' pollution, Vogue warned. Vogue also cautioned that ending the Mercury and Air Toxics Standards will further deregulate pollution from these factories.
Other deregulations could harm air quality near fashion-production facilities, while water quality deregulations could be detrimental to the areas around these facilities, too, Vogue reported. Fashion production often relies on "water-intensive dyeing and finishing processes," and without regulation, these processes could impact water resources.
Deregulation in the fashion industry has consequences for the future of both the environment and the industry. The fashion industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, and textile dyeing is the world's second-largest water polluter, according to Business Insider.
Pollution could increase without regulation, and Vogue stated that companies must determine whether to save money in the short term or embrace sustainability in the long term.
"EPA deregulations could not only lead to increased pollution and harm ecosystems but also discourage companies from innovating new technologies for more sustainable production,"
University of Delaware Fashion and Apparel Studies director Dr. Sheng Lu told Vogue.
Becoming more sustainable costs more now but could pay off later and improve the reputation of the fashion industry, Vogue argued.
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Despite EPA deregulations, some companies are choosing to prioritize the environment. Danish company Rodinia Generation manufactures "low-carbon clothing" using technological solutions to reduce textile waste and pollution. Kenyan brand Maisha by Nisria upcycles discarded textiles into high-fashion pieces.
The Higg Index can also hold the fashion industry environmentally accountable. The tool allows companies to assess their social and environmental impact, helping them "identify risks, reduce waste and implement more sustainable practices," Vogue wrote.
"The real challenge isn't just whether we regulate more or less, but how we create a business environment where circularity, waste reduction and smarter material use drive profitability," Dr. Sheng Lu said to Vogue.
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