Tiffany & Co CEO Anthony Ledru on staying ‘anti-trend' and embracing the brand's legacy

Tatler Asia

2 days ago

Above Tiffany & Co Wave diamond necklace
Tiffany has always been a symbol of timeless luxury. How do you reinterpret that legacy for a new generation of clients?
At the heart of our jewellery brand is a rich heritage we cherish. In 2027, we will celebrate our 190th anniversary—a milestone that distinguishes us! Unlike many brands still searching for their roots, we draw inspiration from our extensive historical archives, making our designs meaningful.
A prime example is the beloved 'Bird on the Rock,' which has captivated Southeast Asian audiences for decades. This year marks its 60th anniversary, and we seized the opportunity to refresh this classic design three years ago. Though it featured the iconic Tiffany Diamond from 1995, it needed a new look to soar.
Our mission was to help the bird retake flight. We created our 'rainbow birds' by experimenting with emeralds, yellow, and white diamonds, transforming them into pendants, earrings, necklaces and rings.
This revitalisation is crucial for our brand to remain dynamic and relevant. We believe that innovation and tradition can coexist beautifully. While being showcased in a museum is an honour, we strive to be an exciting contributor to the jewellery world for years to come.
Since joining LVMH, Tiffany has taken a more fashion-forward turn. What inspired that creative pivot? How do you measure its impact, and what have been the results of this pivot?
When LVMH acquired Tiffany, we recognised the need to revitalise the brand, which had a rich heritage but felt dormant. Our initial campaigns with Beyoncé were surprising and aimed at refreshing Tiffany's image. We showcased the Tiffany diamond during the holiday season, highlighting its iconic status.
Today, our direction is clear: We focus on jewellery while celebrating our values of joy, inventiveness, and craftsmanship. Our approach is about 80 per cent heritage and 20 per cent modernity, a shift from our earlier strategy.
Inspired by Schlumberger, our recent campaign features some of our most timeless designs, following our motto, 'With love since 1837.' We aim to maintain a distinct identity by embracing the uniqueness of the past decades. We are anti-trend, creating modern designs that remain deeply rooted in our heritage.
Above Greta Lee wears Tiffany & Co jewellery from the Urchin chapter of Blue Book 2025
High jewellery is becoming increasingly central to Tiffany's identity. How are you enhancing this segment while preserving the legacy, and what do you think has contributed to the significant rise in high jewellery purchases?
Tiffany is a leader in the jewellery industry, celebrated worldwide and proudly American.
Three key aspects distinguish Tiffany. First, our inspiration comes from the extraordinary world of Schlumberger, capturing the essence of nature, wildlife, and the iconic bird, which reflects our brand.
Second, we take pride in the exceptional quality of our stones. Our collection features unique legacy stones, including Tsavorite, Tanzanite, Kunzite and Morganite. We acquired 32 rare stones from the Argyle mine, showcasing our commitment to exclusivity.
Finally, the Tiffany & Co Museum exhibits our finest craftsmanship, including exclusive 10-carat stones. This unique creativity fosters client loyalty, ensuring they return to us.
Above Tiffany & Co Seahorse blue zircon brooch
We're sitting in the reimagined 5th Avenue flagship. What does this space say about the future of Tiffany retail?
Tiffany is committed to creating unique and exciting stores that showcase exquisite jewellery and cultural items. Like the Basquiat piece in New York, our landmarks offer a distinctive experience.
Our recent store in Milan, which opened two weeks ago, exemplifies remarkable localisation. It offers views of iconic Milanese sites, Pistoritos in Tiffany's colours and archives from Liza Minnelli. Each store is modern, energetic, and has exclusive artistic touches.
We are also expanding in Asia and the Middle East. This July, we'll open our largest flagship in Japan, covering 2,200 square metres of exceptional jewellery, art and hospitality. In Europe, we're renovating spaces in Paris, opening new locations in London, Vienna, Zurich and Munich, and strengthening our presence in the US.
Brazil is an excellent example of localisation. In December, we opened a duplex store at Iguatemi, featuring local architecture and design.
Sustainability is crucial to us, and we lead the way in responsible sourcing. Our engagement rings come with a complete diamond journey, ensuring transparency from mine to market. As a founding member of the Gemstone Council, we actively support conservation efforts through the Tiffany Foundation.
We have ongoing programs for ocean protection in the Philippines and recently engaged in coral reef protection initiatives in Southeast Asia.
Above Anya Taylor-Joy wears Tiffany & Co jewellery from Wave chapter of Blue Book 2025
How do you nurture and sustain that vital emotional connection in a world progressively dominated by social media and digital interactions?
There's an overwhelming amount of information today. By organising Blue Book events, we'll create a unique experience that differs from a Zoom call. Blue Book events facilitate meaningful connections among clients, the press, celebrities, and other stakeholders involved with the brand.
While I can show you pictures of jewellery, the absolute joy comes from wearing it. The live experience is vital—it's emotional and engaging. Yes, it requires a long trip and can be costly, but this reflects the essence of the brand.
Meeting in person creates a lasting impression that a Zoom call cannot match. The concept of luxury is evolving, and the Blue Book plays a vital role in this transformation.
See more: 9 celebrity jewellery looks that made a statement
Above Tiffany & Co Sea Turtle diamond pendant
As we look towards 2025, what does modern luxury signify for Tiffany & Co?
Modern luxury is about genuine experiences and personal connections. It's shifting away from traditional luxury standards and embracing tangible interactions. While digital platforms are valuable for their reach and educational aspects, they can't replace genuine human connection.
I believe in personal interactions, like handing you my business card and remembering our conversation. You may come to Tiffany for the brand, but I hope you return because of the relationship we build. In 2025, there is a growing desire for authenticity, which is often lacking online.
Everyone's talking about the softness of luxury retail at the moment. What are your thoughts?
Recently, LVMH released its earnings, which have shown resilience. However, there's notable uncertainty today—perhaps the highest since last year. We've been fortunate to see a positive trend over the past six months due to our focus on authenticity, but uncertainty is the only certainty right now.
While we wait for developments, the world stands still. This is why we create 'bubbles' for people to enjoy life.
The brand's transformation excites me most about Tiffany's next chapter. Aligning our goals has taken time, and we are committed to presenting timeless design through iconic elements, such as 'A Bird on a Rock' and Tiffany hardware. Being different is essential for relevance, and Tiffany truly understands its significance.
Our communication focuses on timeless design, heritage, and love—concepts we've celebrated for nearly 200 years. This narrative comes to life in our flagship stores, called 'lighthouses.' They illuminate the cities they inhabit and showcase our brand's potential.
Opening a store in Milan was a game-changer, and these landmark locations will allow Tiffany to shine more brightly.
Above Guests attend Tiffany & Co's Blue Book Gala at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's American Wing
What message would you like to convey to the Southeast Asia region? What would you like to share with them?
I have a deep appreciation for this region, as my experiences with Louis Vuitton allowed me to explore it frequently. Southeast Asia captivates me with its remarkable diversity and youthful population, which holds tremendous potential for the future. The love for unique gemstones and the vibrant spirit of celebration make it a thriving jewellery market. For instance, Singapore boasts a well-established high jewellery scene, while Thailand is bursting with excitement, and the Philippines stands out with one of the highest birth rates in the world.
I've had the pleasure of visiting the Philippines several times, and the energy in places like Greenbelt is simply infectious! My first visit left me struck by the warmth and friendliness of the people; it truly felt like friendship is woven into the fabric of daily life. The vibrant culture and the rhythm of life there reminded me of South America.
This beautiful archipelago is a treasure trove of culture and diversity, and I find immense joy in it. I believe embracing life's experiences is key to a fulfilling journey. Thank you all for being part of this adventure together—let's continue to learn, grow and celebrate the beauty of our shared journey!
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Credits
Images: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co