
The young hat maker who wants to bring back the bowler (and the King is already a fan)
One group who are doing their bit to keep hats in the headlines however are the Royal family, who can often be counted on to don their finery when attending state events and the like. It's why the King's Foundation has collaborated with Royal Ascot on a new bursary of £10,000 to help the next generation of milliners.
'We are always thinking about what skills are in danger in the UK, and with our long-standing partnership with Chanel and Le19M, it just made sense to pick a design programme that focused on millinery,' shares Daniel McAuliffe, the director of education at the King's Foundation. 'With King Charles being our founding president, it was the perfect fit. And we're definitely a country of hat wearers, we're probably the biggest hat wearers in the world, especially during Ascot week. The Royal family are instrumental in keeping hats relevant, we'll see that in the coming weeks when there will be lots of hats in the newspapers.'
The first bursary recipient, Emily Hurst, was announced this week. 'It's a fantastic honour,' she shares from St James's Palace, where she has just collected another accolade – the Emerging Talent Award – from David Beckham. 'It's a huge privilege to have recognition for my work, it's going to mean all the difference in setting up my studio and getting myself ready to become an independent designer.'
Hurst was first drawn to millinery after studying costume design, when hats and bonnets were a huge part of her oeuvre, but it was the sustainability element that most appeals to her today. 'During my time studying at the King's Foundation I realised it had so much potential both in terms of design and sustainability. I was in touch with Veronica Main, who's got an MBE for her contribution to straw work – she was instrumental in me deciding that this is what I would love to do.'
As part of the King's Foundation's partnership with Chanel, the students have access to the fashion house's deadstock. 'We're not using new materials, but ones that have a sustainable element,' she says. 'I learnt at university that we used to rewear our bonnets by having a new trim for different events, and that's something I'd like to explore more – you don't need to buy new things.'
So, does Hurst have any tips for how we should be choosing our hats for Ascot and the like? 'I think when it comes to wearing a hat it's so individual to each person,' says Hurst. 'Because we don't wear them so much anymore there's a lack of confidence, and a feeling of 'should I, shouldn't I?' but it's about choosing a hat that makes you feel confident. That makes you stand that bit taller. There's definitely a style that suits everyone.'
When it comes to her favourite hat shapes for this summer, she's a fan of a surprise design. 'The bowler is such a classic style, it's such a beautiful shape that you can reimagine,' says Hurst. 'I love it with a trim of ribbon. It suits so many people.'
Hurst and her fellow students' work will also be showcased at Royal Ascot, giving racegoers the chance to have a sneak peek of the next generation of millinery talent. But for McAuliffe, there's a bigger picture to focus on too. 'It's not just about making hats for Ascot, it's about making hats for performance, hats for the catwalk, and hats for wearing everyday,' he says. 'The music industry is also a great champion of hats – another of our students, Barnaby Horne, had a hat on Jake Shears for the recent Scissor Sisters tour. I think the next stage will be inviting stylists to look at our collection and see where we can go from there.'
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