10 signature jewellery pieces that define luxury brands
2. Bulgari Serpenti
Slinky, sculptural and steeped in symbolism, Bulgari's Serpenti has slithered its way into the canon of signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands. Since the 1940s, its sinuous form has wrapped around the wrists and necks of screen sirens and style icons, embodying transformation, eternity and Italian audacity. Crafted with enamel scales or pavé diamonds, Serpenti remains the house's most hypnotic emblem.
Don't miss: How Bulgari's Serpenti has evolved over 75 years 3. Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
First launched in 1968, the four-leaf clover of the Alhambra motif has become synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels. Worn by the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, this signature piece symbolises luck, love and effortless elegance. Whether in mother-of-pearl, onyx or malachite, the Alhambra is one of the most timeless and recognisable signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands.
See more: Van Cleef & Arpels introduces new guilloché yellow gold and blue agate Alhambra jewellery 4. Tiffany & Co Open Heart and T collections
From Elsa Peretti's sculptural Open Heart to the architectural lines of the T Collection, Tiffany & Co has no shortage of icons. These designs capture the brand's New York spirit—bold, clean and instantly wearable. As far as signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands go, Tiffany's offerings balance sentimentality with strength. 5. Chanel Camélia and Coco Crush
Coco Chanel's favourite flower, the camellia, is immortalised in Chanel's fine jewellery as a delicate, almost ethereal bloom. Meanwhile, Coco Crush, with its quilted motif, translates the maison's haute couture heritage into gold and diamonds. These collections embody the brand's ability to merge fashion and fine craftsmanship into truly signature premium jewellery. 6. Hermès Collier de Chien
What began in the 1920s as a chic leather collar for French bulldogs (yes, really) evolved into the Collier de Chien—a metal-studded cuff that would become Hermès' most rebellious signature. Polished yet punk, elegant but dangerous, it's been spotted on everyone from Madonna to modern-day fashion editors. It may not scream Hermès as loudly as a Birkin, but it growls just enough. 7. Graff Butterfly and Icon collections
Graff's butterfly motif, rendered in dazzling diamonds, represents the house's obsession with symmetry and light. Its Icon collection, meanwhile, showcases exceptional stones in minimalist settings, letting the gems speak for themselves. For a brand known for record-breaking diamonds, these signature designs are surprisingly restrained—yet utterly unforgettable. 8. Piaget Possession
With rotating bands and playful mechanics, Piaget's Possession collection invites interaction. This signature line embodies the house's philosophy of movement, joy and understated glamour. It's a tactile, joyful twist on the classic luxury jewellery narrative. 9. Chaumet's Joséphine tiara rings
Chaumet has been crafting tiaras for royalty since the Napoleonic era, but the Joséphine collection cleverly downsized that grandeur into rings and pendants you could wear to dinner without a coronation.
Named after Napoleon's empress, these pieces echo tiara silhouettes—pear-shaped diamonds perched like little crowns. Among connoisseurs of haute joaillerie, it's Chaumet's not-so-quiet reminder: some legacies are worn, not shouted. 10. Chopard Happy Diamonds
When Chopard launched its Happy Diamonds collection in 1976, the idea of letting diamonds float freely behind sapphire glass was downright radical. But those twirling little gems weren't just playful—they were a revelation.
Elegant yet whimsical, Happy Diamonds became a symbol of 20th-century joie de vivre and are still a house staple today. Movement, after all, is the essence of happiness. And luxury that dares to dance? Timeless.
See more: Inside Chopard's gold foundry and watchmaking manufacture
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2. Bulgari Serpenti Slinky, sculptural and steeped in symbolism, Bulgari's Serpenti has slithered its way into the canon of signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands. Since the 1940s, its sinuous form has wrapped around the wrists and necks of screen sirens and style icons, embodying transformation, eternity and Italian audacity. Crafted with enamel scales or pavé diamonds, Serpenti remains the house's most hypnotic emblem. Don't miss: How Bulgari's Serpenti has evolved over 75 years 3. Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra First launched in 1968, the four-leaf clover of the Alhambra motif has become synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels. Worn by the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, this signature piece symbolises luck, love and effortless elegance. Whether in mother-of-pearl, onyx or malachite, the Alhambra is one of the most timeless and recognisable signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands. See more: Van Cleef & Arpels introduces new guilloché yellow gold and blue agate Alhambra jewellery 4. Tiffany & Co Open Heart and T collections From Elsa Peretti's sculptural Open Heart to the architectural lines of the T Collection, Tiffany & Co has no shortage of icons. These designs capture the brand's New York spirit—bold, clean and instantly wearable. As far as signature jewellery pieces by luxury brands go, Tiffany's offerings balance sentimentality with strength. 5. Chanel Camélia and Coco Crush Coco Chanel's favourite flower, the camellia, is immortalised in Chanel's fine jewellery as a delicate, almost ethereal bloom. Meanwhile, Coco Crush, with its quilted motif, translates the maison's haute couture heritage into gold and diamonds. These collections embody the brand's ability to merge fashion and fine craftsmanship into truly signature premium jewellery. 6. Hermès Collier de Chien What began in the 1920s as a chic leather collar for French bulldogs (yes, really) evolved into the Collier de Chien—a metal-studded cuff that would become Hermès' most rebellious signature. Polished yet punk, elegant but dangerous, it's been spotted on everyone from Madonna to modern-day fashion editors. It may not scream Hermès as loudly as a Birkin, but it growls just enough. 7. Graff Butterfly and Icon collections Graff's butterfly motif, rendered in dazzling diamonds, represents the house's obsession with symmetry and light. Its Icon collection, meanwhile, showcases exceptional stones in minimalist settings, letting the gems speak for themselves. For a brand known for record-breaking diamonds, these signature designs are surprisingly restrained—yet utterly unforgettable. 8. Piaget Possession With rotating bands and playful mechanics, Piaget's Possession collection invites interaction. This signature line embodies the house's philosophy of movement, joy and understated glamour. It's a tactile, joyful twist on the classic luxury jewellery narrative. 9. Chaumet's Joséphine tiara rings Chaumet has been crafting tiaras for royalty since the Napoleonic era, but the Joséphine collection cleverly downsized that grandeur into rings and pendants you could wear to dinner without a coronation. Named after Napoleon's empress, these pieces echo tiara silhouettes—pear-shaped diamonds perched like little crowns. Among connoisseurs of haute joaillerie, it's Chaumet's not-so-quiet reminder: some legacies are worn, not shouted. 10. Chopard Happy Diamonds When Chopard launched its Happy Diamonds collection in 1976, the idea of letting diamonds float freely behind sapphire glass was downright radical. But those twirling little gems weren't just playful—they were a revelation. Elegant yet whimsical, Happy Diamonds became a symbol of 20th-century joie de vivre and are still a house staple today. Movement, after all, is the essence of happiness. And luxury that dares to dance? Timeless. See more: Inside Chopard's gold foundry and watchmaking manufacture
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Curious about Van Cleef & Arpels' latest high jewellery collection? Here's what the brand's Asia Pacific president shared with us
Van Cleef & Arpels sets sail for adventure with a new high jewellery collection inspired by author Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island, celebrating maritime history, literary charm and stunning craftsmanship In 1883, Robert Louis Stevenson published his famous Treasure Island, an adventure story filled with pirates, betrayal and buried gold. Nearly a century and a half later, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn inspiration from that famous story to create a high jewellery collection of the same name, inviting jewellery editors on an adventure of their own—not on the high seas but to the balmy island of Phuket. The Thai island was a clever choice on the part of the maison. Located in the Andaman Sea, it was a perfect setting in which to anchor the narrative of the new launch: once a bustling hub for spice traders and a pitstop for pirates seeking refuge from monsoons, Phuket could stand in for Stevenson's fictitious island. One could almost imagine pirate Long John Silver plotting his course in the shaded corners of Patong, or Captain Flint burying his treasure beneath the swaying palms of Kata Noi. Read more: Mother's Day 2025: 3 heartfelt stories of jewellery heirlooms inherited from mums Above Stevenson's Treasure Island inspired the entrance to the high jewellery showcase in Phuket (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels) Van Cleef & Arpels, a master of transforming literary fantasy into reality, has not merely illustrated Treasure Island through a special edition of the book; it has dissected and reinterpreted it to create this latest high jewellery collection. As Julie Clody Medina, the brand's Asia Pacific president, says: ' Van Cleef & Arpels has been inspired by literary works for decades—be it poetry, novels or theatrical productions. This year, the inspiration comes from Treasure Island. This classic adventure and travel novel, published in 1883, allowed us to create a story that goes beyond European and western influences. I think all of us, no matter where we grew up, search for treasure and play at being pirates.' The collection is divided into three chapters, which Clody Medina explains are directly related to the popular tale. 'There's a universality and an imagination around the adventure at sea—which is the first chapter—and then discovering the lush island, with its enchanting and fascinating nature, which is a source of inspiration for the maison. And finally, the [third chapter is the] treasure hunt.' Above Treasure Island high jewellery showcase in Phuket (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels) The Adventure at Sea chapter opens with the Hispaniola, the ship upon which young Jim and his adult companions sail to find the buried treasure, reimagined as a diamond-encrusted clip. Rather than a literal depiction, it is a distillation of the ship's spirit: the billowing sails suggested by pavé diamonds and the sturdy hull rendered in textured white gold. The Traversée Mystérieuse bracelet in rose gold, with its undulating, mystery-set sapphires, captures the waves on the surface of the ocean. And the Cordage Infini necklace, seemingly a simple knot of diamonds and sapphires, speaks to the binding agreements, loyalties and betrayals that propel Stevenson's plot. The two pear-shaped Sri Lankan sapphires in the Cordage Infini necklace, weighing 18.07 and 17.30 carats respectively, can be interpreted as the embodiment of the hoped-for hidden spoils. Within this chapter, Van Cleef & Arpels has taken a creative leap to reimagine the idea of pirates from the novel, with the Pirate John, David and Jim high jewellery clips. 'I love the three pirates because they symbolise the collection,' Clody Medina says. 'There's this sense of adventure and appetite and curiosity for the horizon, and for a journey, a voyage, travel. I'm putting aside the mean side [of the pirates], of course, and focusing on the genuine, funny and quirky side.' She admires the 'little touch of humour' in their design, a playfulness that resonates with her own approach to life: 'I try really not to take myself too seriously, even if we work seriously.' Clody Medina describes them as 'totally wearable' pieces, full of colour and fun, while the binoculars-sporting pirate Jim is symbolic of 'a curiosity and desire to understand the vast and beautiful Asia Pacific region'. Pirate Jim highlights Van Cleef & Arpels' adeptness in character portrayal through jewellery—the carefully chosen stones and the subtle expressions crafted in metal all contribute to a miniature portrait that speaks volumes about the story's protagonist. 'Every time you look at the pieces, you discover something new—a new detail, an overlooked pattern,' she says. In case you missed it: Met Gala 2025: When superfine tailoring met superfine jewels Above Pirate John clip (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels) The Exploring the Island chapter sees the wild, untamed beauty of Stevenson's fictional land brought to life. The Palmeraie Merveilleuse necklace, with its yellow and white gold leaves and breathtaking, 47.93- carat Colombian emerald, sets in stone an intoxicating tropical vibe. But look closer—the emerald is a cabochon cut, not a perfectly faceted stone screaming for attention. This smooth, organic form, with beautiful inclusions, echoes the island's own secrets. The Coquilles Mystérieuses bracelet, available in traditional mystery-set rubies or sapphires, continues this theme. Clody Medina says the maison embarked on its own quest to source the perfect gems: 'We started four years ago to select the stones. It was, in itself, a treasure hunt, keeping in mind the theme of the collection. We were inspired by the colour, cut, clarity, weight and also the character and spirit of each stone. Then the design studio refined the design, and the artisans, stone experts and designers placed the stones in just the right pieces and places, so everything looks perfect. That's the beauty of this collection.' When asked about her personal connection to the collection, Clody Medina says: 'You don't need to jump on a boat and cross the sea to be someone who likes adventure; it could be a very internalised, personal journey as well. The third chapter of our collection, The Treasure Hunt, represents the gathering of memories from many places. It echoes so many people, beyond just my own experience'. Don't miss: Pierre Hardy explores the emotions of colour in Hermès' dazzling high jewellery collection 'Les Formes de la Couleur' Above Palmeraie Merveilleuse necklace and matching brooch (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels) The chapter's Carte au Trésor brooch, featuring a yellow gold map scrolled up with a rose gold rope encrusted with diamonds, is a playful nod to the novel's plot device; but beyond that, it's a reminder that the true treasure is the hunt itself. Besides, if you look closely, between the folds of the map, a ruby awaits discovery. The Lumières d'Udaipur earrings, inspired by Mughal designs, cleverly illustrate the greed of exploring far-off lands and their historical riches. Featuring two emerald-cut fancy vivid orangey yellow diamonds of 4.52 carats each, the earrings can be worn instead as pendants. The Coffre Précieux ring features a 14.32-carat, cushion-cut sapphire; more than just a pretty stone, it's evocative of the chests of sapphires, rubies and diamonds waiting to be discovered. With Treasure Island, the maison has created a high jewellery collection that is not just beautiful but also thought-provoking. As Clody Medina so aptly puts it, the collection is 'an invitation to dream, to dare and to discover, and it's endless—from exploring the sea and the island to collecting and putting together a collection. It [represents] our collectors, who are, in a way, building their own collection and legacy, on their journey as high jewellery lovers.'
