Dubai Fashion Week: Australian fashion designer Paolo Sebastian on presenting his debut collection
Paolo Sebastian, the first Australian brand to grace the prestigious stage of Dubai Fashion Week (DFW), marked its highly anticipated debut with an invite-only showcase. The Autumn/Winter collection highlighted the designer's signature blend of romance and contemporary elegance. Each piece demonstrated detailed craftsmanship and transported the audience to a fantastical world — some elements dark, others sweet and romantic. If you're wondering about his journey, let us take you through it...
Creative Director and Founder of the label, Paul Vasileff, learned to sew at the age of three. Initially taught by his grandmother, he completed his first evening dress at age 11 — Vasileff was always fascinated by the inner workings and underpinnings of garments. With dreams of one day becoming a couture designer, he developed his skills by undertaking private lessons in pattern making and sewing from the age of 13.
Following his debut at 17, which garnered rave reviews and client orders, Paul polished his craft under a traditional Italian tailor before earning a scholarship to Milan's prestigious Istituto Europeo di Design and graduating with honours. Returning to Australia, he expanded his label 'Paolo Sebastian', training his team in the fine art of sewing. His dedication earned him the title of Young Australian of the Year in 2017 and later, Designer of the Year at the Prix de Marie Claire Awards. He continues to elevate his brand with international clients, annual Paris showings, and uncompromising craftsmanship.
On the second day of DFW, Paul put out a show that was filled with grace and stunning figure-enhancing silhouettes. These cuts are what every woman dreams of being in, cinching at the right places, with a drape that flows perfectly on the garment. Dubai seemed like the perfect place for this Australian brand to debut, given how in love with hemming and silhouette we are here.
Fit for weddings, parties, and the glitterati of Dubai, the collection displayed shades of white, eggshell, lilac, baby blue, black, grey, with tasteful embellishments of rhinestones and appliqué work, ostrich feather and tulle. The gowns, with their form-fitting silhouette and meticulous beadwork mirrored the night sky. Some gowns had a semi-sheer fabric along the arms and chest that added a touch of mystique, making the model appear as though she were floating on a cloud of silver light. In Paul's world, this is how he envisions any bride — a true fairy.
Excerpts from the interview:
Who is the Paolo Sebastian woman?
I think the Paolo Sebastian woman is someone who is confident, strong, and loves to dream. I think that's why the clientele here is such a perfect fit.
We have such a strong following in the UAE, and although we have only been showing here for a few years, we feel we really understand our clients. In return, they also seem to understand the essence of our brand.
Did you have a theme for your collection, what was the concept?
This season, the collection is inspired by the image of a maiden descending from the heavens to illuminate the darkness of Earth. Drawing from vintage Hollywood, we meticulously curated the colour palettes and textures. My goal was to transport the audience into a realm where they are free to dream.
What are your long-term aspirations for Paolo Sebastian in the Middle East, and what strategies do you have to enhance your brand's presence in this market?
I would love to continue our presence here and grow our reach. My dream is to one day have a store or a permanent base here in the region so that our clients can experience the brand more frequently.
Which is your favourite look from the collection and why?
It's hard to pick my favourite from the collection. But if I had to, I think I would have to say the tassel dress, mainly because of its movement on the runway. The process of creating it was also a lot of fun and very rewarding for the team. We got to experiment with new techniques and craftsmanship and push our pattern making and problem-solving skills.
All Paolo Sebastian designs are handmade in Adelaide, South Australia. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted from the finest fabrics, so the design, construction and fitting process take a minimum of four months to make.
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