
Immersed in Elegance as the World Rolls By: Luxury Sleeper Trains
If you've longed to indulge in elegant rail travel, but thought the days of lavish cars and live music were over, you're in luck. New trains as well as new routes, amenities and special events are rolling out, enticing travelers to sit back, Champagne in hand, and glide through some of the world's most beautiful landscapes. Be it the Lake District in England or the mountainous island of Kyushu in Japan, these journeys offer suites that rival rooms in high-end hotels, and dishes from chefs whose restaurants have won Michelin stars. Here's where to climb aboard.
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond Train, Europe
Beginning in May, this opulent train, with its restored 1920s and '30s carriages, will offer a new, three-night journey called Paris to Tuscany by a Legend of the Rails. Step into Bar Car 3674 to enjoy live piano music before retiring to your jewel-toned room. Options include a 'historic cabin' with seats that convert to berths (communal restrooms are at the end of each sleeper carriage); a suite with its own marble bathroom and a double or twin bed that converts to a seating area; or a grand suite with a marble bathroom, double bed, dining area and 24-hour butler service.
During your travels, you'll visit Siena, Italy, where you'll tour the Gothic-style historic center. You'll stop by a 13th-century palace in the Piazza del Campo where you can savor an aperitif while taking in panoramic views of the city, and spend two nights amid vineyards and olive groves at Castello di Casole, a Belmond Hotel, Tuscany. While there, stroll the grounds, join a stargazing session at the outdoor amphitheater and unwind with live music in the courtyard. Prices (including meals with wine) are from 9,350 pounds, or about $12,100 a person, based on two guests sharing a historic cabin and two nights in a junior suite at Castello di Casole.
In June, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express will begin traveling to Portofino from Paris again (last year was its inaugural journey), this time with an added carriage: the L'Observatoire sleeper carriage, designed by the French artist, JR. The train's largest accommodation will have its own library with more than 1,000 books, a tearoom with a fireplace, even a skylight so you can watch the clouds as the train moves along. The trip concludes at Splendido, a Belmond Hotel, which, beginning in June, will unveil renovations and updates to communal spaces, including a breakfast area, cocktail bar and Dior spa. Prices (which include meals and wine) for Paris to Portofino are from £10,400 a person, based on two guests sharing a historic cabin and two nights in a premium room at Splendido.
La Dolce Vita Orient Express
Channeling the allure of Italy in the 1960s and 70s, this sleek train will begin offering eight round-trip itineraries in April, each departing from Rome, where you'll find the new La Dolce Vita Orient Express lounge, at Roma Ostiense train station. From there, depending on your itinerary, you'll travel to places like Tuscany and Piedmont. Some itineraries may appeal to train buffs, such as the Rome-to-Sicily trip during which you'll see the train decouple and be loaded onto a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina, then get reassembled on the other side. Indulge in meals overseen by the chef Heinz Beck, perhaps best known for La Pergola, the three Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome. At night you'll sleep in one of 12 deluxe cabins with mirrored walls (a sofa unfolds to a double bed, and ottomans can be used as coffee tables) or in one of 18 suites with beds, sofas, tables and armchairs. An additional suite, meant to be the grandest on the train, is in the works. Prices for a one-night itinerary from 3,500 euros, or about $3,800, a person in a deluxe cabin.
Should you wish to supplement your train travels with stays in Rome or Venice, the first ever hotels from Orient Express are also opening this year, including the Orient Express La Minerva, a former 17th-century palace in Rome, and the Orient Express Palazzo Donà Giovannelli in Venice.
The Britannic Explorer, a Belmond Train, United Kingdom
Billing itself as the first luxury sleeper train touring England and Wales, this new train is scheduled to take to the rails in July. Departing from London, it will offer three-night journeys with three different routes through Wales, Cornwall and the Lake District.
Inside you'll find bright cars and 18 playful, soft-hued cabins, including 15 suites and three 'grand suites' that take their inspiration from the scenic views beyond the windows and have double beds, en-suite bathrooms and butler service. The British chef Simon Rogan, whose restaurants have garnered Michelin stars, will offer dishes with seasonal ingredients inspired by Britain's various regions. Indulge in massages and facials in the wellness suite, sip a cocktail at the bar, and take part in off-train activities, including swimming in the Lake District, visiting Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens in Cornwall, and touring the Hauser & Wirth Somerset gallery and arts center along with dinner at the on-site restaurant, Da Costa. Prices from £11,000 (for a double cabin), including a three-night itinerary, excursions, meals and alcoholic beverages on board.
Seven Stars
Plan ahead for a journey on the sumptuous Seven Stars in Kyushu, the island in southern Japan known for its hot springs, mountains and mouthwatering cuisine. A glamorous sleeper train with just 10 guest rooms, Seven Stars includes eight suites and two deluxe suites, one at the end of the last car with breathtaking views through a wall-to-wall window. Savor a cup of tea in the tearoom, enjoy piano music at the Blue Moon bar, or try the new Kaz Bar, a private bar in a cabin available for use by reservation only. Itineraries, some of which include stays at a ryokan, vary with the season. All depart from and return to Hakata Station in the city of Fukuoka. To reserve, apply online (the next application period will be in the spring for journeys for fall 2025 to winter 2026) or book through a travel agent (some sell tickets as part of a package). March to June 2025 prices for a two-day journey are from 680,000 yen a person, or about $4,575, and from 1,300,000 yen for a four-day journey. Prices include meals and beverages (excluding some vintage wine and Champagne), as well as excursions. The Kaz Bar is not included in the price.
Kanpachi Ichiroku
For day-tripping sightseers in Kyushu, the new Kanpachi Ichiroku train enables you to gaze at the countryside while enjoying bento box meals that look (almost) too good to eat. Offering a soothing, minimalist atmosphere, the train has two runs. The Kanpachi service departs from Hakata-ku, Fukuoka, then travels to Oita prefecture; stops include Tanushimaru station, where part of the building has a head-and-beak design meant to resemble a kappa, a water creature from Japanese folklore, and Era station, where vendors sell local specialties. The Ichiroku service, begins at Beppu and ends at Hakata, with stops at Amagase station, where you can buy fortunetelling tickets that reveal their message when soaked in the hand and foot baths at the station, and Ukiha station, where you can try produce from this region. Choose from sofa-style seats, cozy box seats and private tatami rooms that can accommodate up to six with mats, seating, tables and big windows from which to watch the landscape roll by. Prices, sold only as one-way trips, include a bento box: From 18,000 yen, for adults and from 15,000 yen for children 6 to 12.
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In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. Best for: small platesTucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. Best for: cool ambianceFor many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. 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Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Best for: slices of pizzaThere's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Best for: outdoor seatingOnce a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. Best for: local cheeseJust at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. 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One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Best for: gelato and coffeeOtaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. 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National Geographic
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Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato Best for: classic dishes with modern flair Since opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. A standout plate at L'Antidoto: white asparagus with black mulberries, olives and a fermented asparagus sauce. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini At L'Antidoto, chef Mirko Pelosi runs the kitchen solo, crafting inventive small plates with precision and flair. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini Enoteca L'Antidoto Best for: small plates Tucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. At Retrobottega, signature plates like wild garlic spaghetti sit alongside seasonal indulgences like the artichoke katsu sando. Photographs by Berkok Yüksel Retrobottega Best for: cool ambiance For many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. At Fischio, the crowd often spills beyond the tables — locals linger around the kiosk with a glass in hand as evening sets in. Fischio Best for: a casual drink Located next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Fratelli Trecca Best for: slices of pizza There's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Necci dal 1924 Best for: outdoor seating Once a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. At Beppe e i suoi formaggi, cheeseboards are built to order from a counter stacked with raw-milk wheels and Alpine specialities. Photograph by Andrea Di Lorenzo Beppe e i suoi formaggi Best for: local cheese Just at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Mercato Trionfale Best for: food market haul Just a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Since 2012, Marco Radicioni's Otaleg has redefined Roman gelato with unexpected, chef-driven flavours. Otaleg Best for: gelato and coffee Otaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. The courtyard at Palazzo Ripetta offers a tranquil setting for aperitivi and all-day dining beneath the Roman sky. Photograph by Palazzo Ripetta Where to stay: Palazzo Ripetta This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).


Elle
8 hours ago
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Inside the Reopening of Italy's Stunning Splendido Hotel
Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. Villa Beatrice sits perched atop a cliff, with a 180-degree view of one of the most stunning, secluded settings imaginable. Turn to the right, and you see the Bay of Portofino. Look left, and it's the Bay of Paraggi. The restored former palazzo, which is set within a national park and has private access to the sea, will be available to rent beginning this July for the first time in its 112-year history. It's the only accommodation of its kind for the hospitality group Belmond, which specializes in resorts, trains, river cruises, and safari lodges that recapture the glamour of an earlier era of travel. Belmond, which was acquired by LVMH in 2019, got its start in 1976, when James Sherwood, the company's original owner, purchased the Hotel Cipriani in Venice. Soon after, he bought two original Orient Express sleeping cars at auction. Air travel had cut into the popularity of luxury trains, and Sherwood was able to get the pair for $113,000, according to The New York Times. He soon collected additional cars, and his revamped Orient Express took to the rails in 1982. Since then, the Belmond group has expanded to include train lines in Europe, Asia, and South America; hotels like Maroma on the Riviera Maya and Rio de Janeiro's Copacabana Palace; and seven river cruises. What connects them all is an emphasis on slow travel, amazing experiences, and classic design. Up the road from the Villa Beatrice is Splendido, a 16th-century Benedictine monastery-turned-52-room hotel, which opens for the summer season this month with a new Dior spa—the first in Italy—and a redesigned main building and cocktail bar. 'We haven't done anything crazy. We applied the modernity, but with respect for the past,' says Alfonso Pacifico, the hotel's general manager and Belmond's area managing director of Portofino. Belmond's properties are routinely restored and revitalized; in July, the group will unveil the Britannic Explorer, the first luxury sleeper train to tour England and Wales. Next on the list is Florence's Villa San Michele, which will reopen in 2026 after a renovation that helped conserve historical elements of the former monastery and redesigned the hotel's suites. Hotel Cipriani is set for an ambitious renovation led by famed architect and designer Peter Marino. 'The first approach is to understand the location and the existing history behind [the property],' says Ons Gherib, senior vice president of design and construction at Belmond, of the company's process for restoring hotels. The architecture and design teams examine the records of who lived and stayed at the property, and study the history, architecture, and types of craftsmanship used in its original construction. For train design, the bar is set even higher: Only pre-1945 technology is used. 'Trains push the know-how and the craftsmanship to a level that is absolutely unknown,' Gherib explains. 'There's real craftsmanship, to the smallest detail. Every detail is drawn, designed, and thought of in a very small scale, which is absolutely stunning.' The restorations can lead to delightful surprises. During the renovation of Villa Beatrice, the ceiling was removed to reveal the original, which was beautifully hand-painted. 'We really try to understand what was there and try to enhance it—bring it back to life and keep it alive.' A version of this story appears in the May 2025 issue of ELLE. GET THE LATEST ISSUE OF ELLE