Waterfalls, wildlife and cafe in little-known UK forest trail that locals love
Stepping onto the woodland trail, you'll immediately be struck by the crisp air, tinged with the earthy aroma of damp pine and moss - a sensory reminder that this is nature in its rawest form. This is the lesser-known Hafren Forest in Mid Wales, home to cascading waters, trails and a quaint café just a short drive away.
Hafren is a meticulously managed woodland with an intriguing history and an abundance of trails to discover. Originally planted by the Forestry Commission in the 1930s for timber production, it now offers much more than just rows of trees.
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Now under the stewardship of Natural Resources Wales, the forest strikes a balance between commercial forestry, conservation, and public enjoyment, making it a crucial habitat for wildlife and a sanctuary for outdoor enthusiasts.
The name 'Hafren' derives from the Welsh term for the River Severn (Afon Hafren), which embarks on its impressive journey to the sea right here. Over the years, Hafren Forest has transformed into a popular and accessible walking destination, with its blend of natural beauty, heritage features and well-maintained trails drawing visitors all year round
The trails here are clearly marked and welcoming, meandering through groves of pines and firs. Their natural symmetry forms archways overhead, framing the path ahead.
When sunlight pierces the clouded sky, it floods in golden beams, lighting up leaves and bark, reports Wales Online. The River Severn, or Afon Hafren as it's locally known, takes the spotlight here. It originates from the slopes of Pumlumon, with its concealed source nestled just beyond the forest.
Initially, it's merely a tranquil stream meandering through the trees with quiet resolve. However, it soon gains momentum, cascading over rocky ledges and morphing into thunderous waterfalls that carve their way through the landscape with unyielding vigour.
Forest trails
There's an abundance of trails to explore here, all clearly marked from beginning to end. Starting at the Rhyd-y-benwch car park, the paths guide you through towering trees, alongside rushing waterfalls, and even to the hidden source of the River Severn.
The Cascades Walk is a gentle amble suitable for all visitors. It commences with a sloping path from the car park and leads to a scenic boardwalk that skirts the riverbank. Along the route, water cascades over rocks, providing a calming backdrop to your woodland walk.
At the boardwalk's end, a raised viewing platform offers a splendid spot to pause and soak in the surroundings before looping back along a broad, well-maintained path through the forest.
The Severn-Break-Its-Neck trail is as thrilling as its name implies. Starting from the car park, you'll meander along a gentle path by the river until it opens up into a meadow.
Here, a boardwalk brings you closer to the sound of gushing water. After a short climb, the Severn-Break-Its-Neck waterfall comes into sight.
At this point, the River Severn roars down a rocky ravine, its raw power tangible as you cross the footbridge above.
The return journey follows a forest road, offering panoramic views through the trees and a chance to recover after the steeper sections.
Blaen Hafren Falls Trail (6 km, 1.5 hours, Moderate)
For a more extended hike, the Blaen Hafren Falls Trail provides a longer, more immersive stroll through the forest canopy. The route follows a well-maintained gravel path alongside the River Severn, leading you through peaceful woodland.
As the trail climbs, glimpses of the surrounding forest appear before unveiling the cascading Blaen Hafren Falls hidden amongst the trees.
Benches scattered along the way offer spots to rest and soak in the scenery. The trail loops back via a forest road, making it a rewarding choice if you're up for a hiking challenge.
Source of the Severn Trail (13 km, 5 hours, Strenuous)
This is my preferred route in the Hafren Forest as it leads to the source of the River Severn. It's astounding to think that the mighty River Severn, which spans over 200 miles, begins its journey here in Hafren Forest.
Its humble beginnings on the slopes of Pumlumon quickly gather pace as the water carves its path through the forest, forming a series of lively cascades and waterfalls.
As you traverse the trails, the river's sound alters, becoming more potent and persistent. Each stride brings you nearer to the water's rhythm, building like an overture before unveiling its concealed source beyond the edge of the forest.
Reaching the source is no ordinary stroll. A steep ascent takes you onto the moorland, where a simple, carved wooden post marks the precise spot.
Beyond Hafren - long-distance adventures
Hafren Forest also serves as the starting point for two epic long-distance walks. The Wye Valley Walk traces the River Wye for 136 miles, while the Severn Way follows the Severn's journey to Bristol.
For a shorter challenge, the Sarn Sabrina circular walk offers 25 miles of myths and landscapes named after a Celtic river goddess. Cyclists can also explore the area via the Sustrans National Cycle Network, which meanders through the forest and beyond. It's a fantastic way to experience the region's beauty at a faster pace.
Afternoon tea at Cobblers Tea Room
If all that walking has left you famished, jump in the car and head to the charming market town of Llaindloes.
Here, you will discover the vintage Cobblers Tea Room on the High Street, a cosy spot for coffee and cakes. Step inside, and you're greeted with the comforting aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked goods still warm from the oven.
This quaint, traditional tea room has been a hit with locals since it changed hands in December 2018. Their reasonably priced menu boasts homemade treats. Cakes are baked on the premises, and depending on the season, you can enjoy mince pies in winter or gelato in summer.
Sandwiches are freshly prepared to order, and the daily homemade soup is just the ticket for warming up after a long forest walk.
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