Move over sesame – in Korea, perilla oil is making a comeback

South China Morning Post

05-06-2025

Long before it gained recognition as a health food, perilla oil held a place of quiet importance in Korean kitchens and farmlands. Known as deulgireum in Korean, the aromatic oil has deep roots in Korean culinary and agricultural history, dating back thousands of years. Despite its longevity, perilla oil saw a decline in popularity in the late 20th century, as
processed vegetable oils and imported fats became more common.
Perilla seeds – said to rival sesame seeds – are the focus at Okhee Mill. Photo: @okhee_mill/Instagram
Moon Ji-Yeon didn't always see
perilla oil as her calling. A passionate traveller, she previously wrote for Lonely Planet Magazine Korea, but she lost her job when the Covid-19 pandemic hit. Instead of following other career options, she chose to return to her hometown of Wonju, Gangwon Province, to carry on the family business of oil pressing.
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'At first, I just wanted to help my mum – the work is physically demanding,' Moon, owner of artisanal perilla roastery and cafe Okhee Mill, said in a recent interview. 'Then I saw how much satisfaction my mum got from her work. Customers would bring their own perilla or sesame seeds and pay for the pressing service. And when they left, they said 'thank you' – that made her happy and dedicated.'
Inspired, Moon began months of study to take over her mother's business and became fascinated by perilla seeds and oil. She named the roastery-cafe in honour of her mother, Ok-Hee, preserving a piece of family legacy in every seed. 'Perilla seeds are a very unique and attractive ingredient,' she said.
History of perilla
A display of perilla oil products at Okhee Mill. Photo: @okhee_mill/Instagram
Unlike sesame , which originated in India and the Middle East's milder climates, perilla – a leafy plant in the mint family – thrives in tougher climates. It is believed to have been introduced to the Korean peninsula from China in ancient times.
According to the National Institute of Crop and Food Science, the first mention of the cultivation of perilla in Korea was in Hyangyakjipseongbang, a 15th-century medical book published during the reign of the Joseon Dynasty's (1392-1910)
King Sejong . Farmers in mountainous regions often grew perilla as a hardy, reliable crop.
According to Lim Jong-yeon, a certified trainee of National Intangible Cultural Heritage-designated Joseon royal court cuisine, perilla oil was widely used in the royal kitchen during the Joseon era.
Perilla vs. sesame
Visitors can pick up an array of perilla-related gifts, including a set of oils. Photo: @okhee_mill/Instagram
Though they may resemble each other, perilla and sesame differ in flavour and growing conditions. Sesame seeds, often roasted, are widely used in Korean cuisine as a garnish for everything from vegetable dishes to sauces and dips. Their oil, chamgireum in Korean, is a kitchen staple known for its savoury and nutty flavour, and is used in dishes like bibimbap (steamed rice mixed with vegetables and meat) and various salads.