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Casa Chablé hotel review: romantic barefoot escapism in Mexico

Casa Chablé hotel review: romantic barefoot escapism in Mexico

Times2 days ago
Enveloped by coconut palms, Casa Chablé sits on a skinny jungly peninsula of the protected Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve, sandwiched between the beautiful turquoise Caribbean Sea and an inland chalky green lagoon where wildlife roams. It's reached by an exciting (but expensive) 35-minute boat ride or a 90-minute car trip from Tulum, and the location on a wild stretch of beach is nothing short of spectacular. Smart bungalows dot the softest of sand and are backed by a restaurant, a beautiful underutilised lobby designed by the Mexican architect Paulina Morán and a small, oblong pool. Locals, who know the lay of the land intricately, lead boat trips to spot jumping dolphins, surfacing manatees, marine turtles, rays and flamingoes, and glimpsing bioluminescence in the lagoon under the stars is a particularly unmissable experience. The service is excellent, thanks to a fabulous team of attentive staff that tend to your every need.
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Score 10/10Casa Chablé's light eco-footprint accommodates just five guest rooms and five thatched wooden bungalows on the sand. The pick of the bunch is the master beachfront bungalow Hunab Ku — translated as 'the beginning of everything' — which stands apart from the other rooms and gives the impression of being cocooned by its own private beach. A large terrace with an alfresco shower is perfect for early morning coffee and croissants, delivered to your door, as well as watching the sunrise and the raccoon-like coatis that mooch about the sand.
The spacious bungalows, designed in natural tones of biscuit, cream and cocoa, and accented with Yucatec-made bedspreads, come with their own hammocks, fat-cushioned sunloungers and tipis. The rooms, found in the main building behind the lobby, are equally attractive although smaller and while all bathrooms have showers, only some come with tubs. The hotel's eco focus is genuinely impressive: 1,848 solar panels generate 60 per cent of the property's energy needs and its own water plant recycles and purifies the supply by reverse osmosis.
Score 10/10Meals are served by the delightful staff in K'úum, a handsome open-sided restaurant on stilts overlooking the palm-dotted sand and ocean. The menu riffs on regional Mexican cuisine: examples include Yucatec cochinita pibil (slow-roasted marinated pork) and local sausage with a reduction of black beans; tacos al pastor, hailing from Puebla, served with octopus rather than the traditional pork; and Oaxacan tlayuda, a toasted tortilla dish, covered in refried beans, avocado, Oaxaca cheese, pepian (rich Guatemalan meat stew), roast cauliflower and a delicious roasted asparagus purée. You'll need a week to savour everything from the menus.
Breakfasts of eggs, fabulous chilaquiles (fried tortillas covered with a variety of ingredients), acai bowls or pancakes are full of flavour. And be sure to take one of your dinners at a lantern-lit romantic spot set up on the beach, or at a pop-up with candlelight arranged amid the hotel's extensive orchard and vegetable garden. Dishes might include tuna with ponzu sauce, coriander and amaranth tostadas, and the most citrusy of ceviches. Elsewhere, expect moreish cocktails like margarita de Jamaica, made with Cointreau, lemon juice, orange and strawberries.
• Best hotels in Tulum• Cancun v Tulum: which is better?
Score 9/10A small gym and a spa are found tucked away near the hotel lobby where great massages are as rhythmic as the sound of the waves you can hear. On offer too are sound-healing experiences and a shamanic ceremony at the boat dock for all guests as the sun sets (it's here that you can spy bioluminescence at night under the stars). You can walk or bike along the main peninsula track to spot small Mayan ruins and some of the 300 species of birds found here, and the hotel offers a huge array of complimentary wellness and wildlife tours including snorkelling and kayaking.
Score 9/10For lovers of wild beaches, the natural world and dark skies, this is a small slice of heaven on earth in a Unesco-protected nature reserve. Those looking for a Tulum party scene may not feel entirely comfortable here. The local boat trip is a must.
Price B&B doubles from £550Restaurant mains from £13Family-friendly YAccessible N
Claire Boobbyer was a guest of Casa Chablé (chablehotels.com)
• Best beaches in Tulum and Cancun• Discover our full guide to Mexico
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Georgia Love makes VERY telling comment amid rumours her ex Lee Elliott has moved on with Carrie Bickmore
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Tourists with cameras are now as bad as the trophy hunters
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These animals had tried to cross the day before, but tourist vehicles blocking their exit — as they do in Nick Kleer's video — had forced half the herd to turn back. Many of those stranded were calves, and their mothers were waiting for them on the far bank, until the tourist cars scared them away. Carcasses of the animals that perished in the crossing bobbed in the river, largely ignored by the crocodiles, which had eaten their fill overnight. The injured animals — most with broken legs — had been unable to climb the steep banks to safety, so stood bleating in the shallows, awaiting the inevitable. Above them, as the herd reformed to try again, the cars rushed in, with the photographers hanging over the sides of the vehicles, pointing Canons in the way that hunters aim rifles. Then a group of about 300 wildebeest tried a crossing, and some even made it past the tourists choking the exit point on the other side. Others, again mainly calves, tried to turn back but were trampled beneath the hooves of the oncoming masses. By the time it was over three more wildebeest were dead, with three more stranded on river beaches with broken limbs and little hope of survival. This was a tiny event in the grand drama of the migration, but these deaths would not have occurred had tourists not been blocking the exit routes. • Read our full guide to Africa Sadly, you'll see similar ignorance, selfishness and greed almost every day in the Serengeti and the MMNR. I've counted 41 vehicles parked around a single leopard in an acacia tree; picked up a basket full of plastic, wet wipes, cans and bottles from a sundowner site; seen a fist fight break out after two amateur photographers climbed onto another party's vehicle to get a better angle; and watched an open-topped Land Cruiser repeatedly charge through a herd of zebras so the whooping photographers on board could capture the panic. Such disrespect is not limited to Africa. I've witnessed a car crash in Ranthambore National Park in India as guides jostled to get their clients to the front of a crowd around a tiger, while Yala National Park in Sri Lanka is the only protected area where I've seen roadkill. In Kenya and in Tanzania safari tourism is divided between the so-called value sector — in which guests pay upwards of £800 per person per night in high season for five-star accommodation — and the mass market, in which you can book a day trip from Nairobi for as little as £227. Those in the former are taken on two game drives a day by a qualified guide; the latter typically get a driver with minimal knowledge. 'These guys are earning maybe [£15] a day, but if they promise the world they can make maybe six times that in tips,' said an MMNR guide who wished to remain anonymous. 'But I know qualified guides who are just as bad. We depend on good reviews so it is very hard to resist a client who is saying, 'I want to be at the front at the crossing and I will pay you well.'' The value sector blames all the bad behaviour and overcrowding on the day-trippers at the cheap end of the market, but that's not entirely fair. Guests from two high-end lodges were filmed at the Kogatende crossing last week and, regardless of the finger-pointing, the truth is that — with no cap on peak-season visitor numbers — overtourism has arrived in the bush and it's hurting the wildlife. Two years ago the MMNR's new management plan warned that overcrowding was not only spoiling the tourist experience but was also leading to habitat degradation and 'a major decline in several of the reserve's charismatic wildlife species'. • Two women died on safari last week — are these trips becoming more dangerous? Access to the Serengeti is relatively cheap (£3 a day for Tanzanians and £52 for foreigners) and — while many in the industry say that a significant increase in fees is the most effective way to limit numbers — the Tanzania National Parks Authority is actively encouraging low-cost, high-volume tourism and will raise prices by just 15 per cent in 2026. However, it is not guaranteed that higher prices would limit numbers. Last summer the entrance fee to the MMNR for foreigners increased from £52 to £150 a day. Official arrival figures aren't yet available, but anecdotal evidence suggests that it's had little effect on demand — and last week President Ruto of Kenya announced a new push to increase overall visitors from three million in 2025 to five million in 2027. Restricting visitor numbers to the Serengeti and the MMNR, perhaps by copying the Rwandan model of limited permits, would reduce pressure on wildlife but would require significant increases in conservation fees and risk turning safari tourism into even more of a pursuit for the rich than it is now. And this won't improve behaviour. Guides always want to earn tips; tourists (especially the frantic ones with the big cameras) always want the best view at every sighting — and that doesn't change because you're paying £1,100 a night in a top-end lodge rather than £227 for a day trip in a pop-top minibus. One argument is that the parks can do without the so-called box-tickers who come for migration, but every species in the Greater Mara ecosystem — and elsewhere in the protected areas of Africa — is dependent on tourism for its survival. Take away the tourists, the conservation argument goes, and the only way to make that grassland pay is to put cattle on it. Calls for heavier sanctions on irresponsible tourist traffic have fallen on deaf ears in park administrations, so here is a simple, effective fix: position rangers at the key crossing points during migration and ban all safari vehicles from approaching within 1,000ft until the herds have moved on. The industry will argue that the crossings are the most exciting and dramatic feature of the migration, and a ban on getting close up will hit bookings. Maybe it will, especially from the trophy hunters dreaming of an award-winning photo. But is their money worth the life of a single wildebeest? Share your views in the comments

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