How ‘The Gilded Age' Women Use Their Jewelry to Show Power and Status

Yahoo

2 days ago

At the heart of HBO Max's 'The Gilded Age,' the drama unfolds not just in whispered secrets but in the historically inspired jewels adorning characters' necks and wrists. Arguably the series' silent star, the jewelry reflects the intense competition among New York's nouveau riche to outshine one another.
The series, which is inspired by New York's elite families from the late 19th century, has provided standout jewelry moments throughout its three seasons, with characters played by Carrie Coon, Taissa Farmiga, Christine Baranski and others dripping in pearls, diamonds, oversize gemstones and layered gold chains.
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'They were not shy to wear their jewelry; this I admired, because women were still held back to be conservative, but this gave way to show power and position of status. Their jewelry was flamboyant and clearly showcased success in society,' jewelry designer Mimi So told WWD.
The jewelry, like the characters, takes inspiration from history, as viewers see Farmiga's Gladys Russell often wearing pieces that resemble the vast jewelry collection of Consuelo Vanderbilt, on whom her character is based.
Selected by costume designer Kasia Walicka Maimone, the pieces from the show illustrate the typical jewelry from the Victorian era, featuring delicate and intricate compositions and gilded details for effect.
'The design feels dated now, but in its time, it ruled. Diamonds weren't just a girl's best friend — they were her values, her status, her armor. Belle Époque tiaras. Edwardian collars. These pieces didn't whisper wealth but declared it, in carats,' CH Jewelers' executive Victoria H. Lee Castro told WWD.
In the fifth episode of Season Three, Lady Sarah (Hattie Morahan) highlights the importance of jewelry at the time, scolding Gladys in front of everyone for choosing to wear diamond stars in her hair instead of a tiara, which ultimately leads to the dismissal of Adelheid (Erin Wilhelmi), who recommended Gladys to wear the piece in the first place.
'Everything is styled to feel opulent and intentional. It's less about exact historical replicas and more about storytelling. We love how the jewelry feels and speaks to the character. These pieces were clearly meant to be passed down as heirlooms and cherished for generations,' Logan Hollowell, designer and founder of Logan Hollowell Jewelry, said. 'That blend of opulence and storytelling will always inspire us.'
Some of the show's standout jewelry pieces are also seen during scenes where the characters face each other at gala events, using their accessories and costumes to showcase their power and affluence. A ritual that comes straight from history.
New York's Gilded Age marked the ascension of enterprising jewelers who catered to the prosperous families of the city. Among them, a name stands out: Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837, the company built a reputation for fine craftsmanship and imported gemstones, selling pieces to Vanderbilts, Astors, Whitneys and Havemeyers.
It was during the Gilded Age that Tiffany & Co. introduced the engagement ring as it is known today — before 1886, when the company unveiled what's called today the Tiffany Setting, diamond rings were set in bezels. The company also traveled the world during that time, promoting American craftsmanship. At the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle, Tiffany & Co.'s exhibition was described as 'the most extraordinary collection of jewels ever produced by an American jewelry house,' according to the brand.
Designs from that time serve as an inspiration to jewelers until today. Now, the show is introducing them to a new crowd through its characters.
The season finale of 'The Gilded Age' Season Three will air on HBO Max on Sunday.
Photos from HBO's 'The Gilded Age'
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Launch Gallery: Photos from HBO's 'The Gilded Age'
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