Where to eat in Rome and Sicily

Boston Globe

20 hours ago

ROME
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Ditirambo
Recommended by a foodie family member (who might be annoyed I'm sharing her favorite special spot), Ditirambo is a classic Roman trattoria. Tucked in a warren of streets near the Campo de'Fiori, the intimate space is the opposite of swanky, with a dark beamed ceiling, pale yellow walls, art by local artists, simple cloths on wood tables, and super-friendly staff. When the one table of loud Americans left, we were the only ones not speaking Italian, creating an atmosphere of hanging out with the locals. But don't let the simplicity of the place fool you. The food is the star here, with fresh seasonal ingredients driving the menu's weekly specials and fixed choices. 'I piatti di mezzo' (middle dishes), a cross between an appetizer and a first course, include vegetarian choices such as eggplant meatballs, and zucchini millefeuille with smoked buffalo mozzarella. All breads and pastas are homemade, including filled pastas — ravioli, tortelloni, and such — and the Roman classic cacio e pepe, basically Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper that is made slightly differently by every chef in town. Other seasonal specialties include rigatoni alla carbonara made with pork cheeks, farro pappardelle with rabbit ragù, sea bream with capers, tomatoes, and olives, and suckling roasted pig. Our choice, fettuccini with fresh and fried artichokes and bacon, was sublime. We paired it with a local white Lazio wine, chosen from an extensive list. Open for lunch and dinner.
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P.za della Cancelleria, 74, 00186 Roma
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At Sora Margherita in Rome's Jewish Quarter, the walls are covered with handwritten thank-you notes from happy patrons.
Necee Regis
Sora Margherita
We had hoped to try a certain restaurant in the Jewish Quarter, but alas, it was closed for lunch that day. While wandering the neighborhood, an unexpected downpour led us running to the door of Sora Margherita, a tiny restaurant where we had one of the best meals of our trip. The place was packed with diners, but the friendly hostess managed to squeeze two soggy patrons into the one-room space and produced a handwritten menu of pastas, salads, and traditional Roman dishes: grilled marinated lamb, rustic chicken stew, steak with grilled vegetables, and fried salt cod. We ordered carciofi alla giudia, a deep-fried artichoke dish originating in Rome's Jewish community; polpete al sugo, three massive meatballs in a rich red sauce; and fettuccine cacio e pepe. When the Italian diners at our elbows were served what we had just ordered, we knew we had selected wisely. The smashed artichoke was like a golden sunflower, with leaves as crispy as potato chips that then melted in the mouth. Astonishing. The pasta was just peppery and cheesy enough, though our new friends suggested that next time we try it with added ricotta. The meatballs, flavorful and filling, were the perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine. As the lunch crowd departed, we could view the walls covered with handwritten thank-you notes from happy patrons. We were too full to order dessert, but our neighbors insisted we try a bite of their ricotta and sour cherry tart, a classic Jewish Quarter sweet. Open for lunch and dinner, with outside dining when weather permits.
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Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30, 00186, Roma
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The cool interior of Glass, a restaurant serving typical Sicilian dishes and pizza in the hilltop town of Piazza Armerina.
Necee Regis
SICILY
Glass
Clinging to a hilltop in central Sicily, the small town of Piazza Armerina is a terrific place for lunch when visiting the nearby Villa Romana del Casale, a not-to-be-missed fourth-century UNESCO World Heritage site known for its more than 37,000 square feet of well-preserved Roman mosaics. Before visiting the villa, we were hiking the maze of Piazza Armerina's medieval streets on an unsuccessful hunt for pizza when someone directed us to Glass. Stepping from the bright, hot sunshine into the cool stone building, we sat beneath the arched ceiling — hungry, tired — and learned that pizza is only served at dinner. When traveling, it's easier to pivot than to force a plan that isn't working. So, we stayed, and were thrilled that we did. It was tough to choose among the many offerings of typical Sicilian foods: Antipasti with Mortadella, speck, caponata, fresh ricotta, eggplant rolls and more; beef tartar with red wine reduction; fusilli with eggplant and almonds; hand-rolled pasta twists with cream of pistachios from Bronte (a town near Mount Etna famous for its small sweet pistachios only harvested every two years); fusilli with asparagus and speck; grilled Angus beef with arugula and parmesan; rolled veal stuffed with ham and pistachios; and hand-rolled macaroni with sausage and fennel. We chose the latter two dishes, and left sated and satisfied. Maybe someday we'll return for pizza. Open for lunch and dinner.
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Largo Capodarso, 5, 94015 Piazza Armerina
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Red shrimp crudo with Sicilian avocado on sauteed spinach with a grapefruit reduction, served at Portocostanza, a stylish restaurant overlooking the port in Palermo.
Necee Regis
Portocostanza
I'd be lax if I didn't mention the prevalence of locally-caught seafood in Sicily. Sardines, anchovies, shrimp, squid, shellfish, and finfish, including swordfish, are served in pasta, grilled, fried, and raw. For a special celebratory meal, a friend in Palermo directed us to Portocostanza, a stylish restaurant overlooking the port. The creative menu focuses on Sicilian flavors, with a farm-to-table approach that includes organic vegetables and herbs acquired from local farmers and its own 5-acre garden. Watching boats lazily glide past our tableside floor-to-ceiling glass windows, we bypassed the tasting menu and shared several dishes for our lunchtime meal: red shrimp crudo with Sicilian avocado on sauteed spinach with a grapefruit reduction; spaghetti with mixed seafood in light tomato cream with capers and mint-flavored breadcrumbs; and snapper fillet with confit cherry tomato cream and Salina caper powder. All were terrific, along with house-made breads, and we'd happily return to taste the many other tempting options, such as risotto with fish broth and shrimp; crispy octopus on smoked eggplant; and mixed salad with tuna tartar, mango cream, and almond flakes. They also have a pizza menu and serve happy hour snacks on an outside upper deck. Reservations are strongly suggested for both lunch and dinner.
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Marina Yachting, Via Filippo Patti, 30, 90133 Palermo
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At Bollicine in Palermo. a fire-singed, pillowy crust pizza is topped with salty prosciutto, sweet yellow cherry tomatoes, creamy Buffalo mozzarella, and earthy, nutty artichokes.
Necee Regis
Bollicine
Palermo is known for its street food, especially arancina, cheese or meat-filled deep-fried rice balls, and for its gelaterias serving a wide selection of fruity, nutty and chocolate/coffee flavors. We sampled many of these wondrous things, but nothing — really nothing — could outshine the pizza at Bollicine. Located around the corner from the historic Teatro Santa Cecilia, where we attended a top-notch jazz performance, the restaurant's outdoor seating was packed and festive on a Saturday night, with service friendly and quick. The menu offered a variety of antipasti, pastas, burgers, and salads, but the draw for us was the 20-plus pizzas. It was difficult to choose among offerings that included sausage, champignon mushrooms, anchovies, Mortadella, smoked scamorza, Gorgonzola, speck, red pumpkin cream, spicy salami, pistachio pesto, ricotta, sundried tomatoes, eggplant, rapini, and more. Our friends are tired of hearing us swoon over our choice — the Salento — with its fire-singed, pillowy crust topped with salty prosciutto, sweet yellow cherry tomatoes, creamy Buffalo mozzarella, and earthy, nutty artichokes. When I return to Palermo, this will be my first meal.
Piazza Rivoluzione, 13, 90133 Palermo
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Necee Regis can be reached at
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Necee Regis can be reached at