Review: Discover A Different Side Of Veg Thai Cuisine Through Toa 66's Tasting Menu

NDTV

19-07-2025

One of the things I love most about dining out in Mumbai is how it always has the potential to surprise, educate and thrill - mostly at the same time. There are dazzling venues that wow with grandeur and make headlines with celebrity clients. But there are also quieter, cosier spots that impress due to a different kind of refinement. We recently visited one such establishment that we would classify under the latter category. Toa 66 is an intimate 26-seater Thai restaurant in Churchgate. But you will not find most of what is "popularly" associated with Thai cuisine here. What you will find instead are various niche discoveries as well as Thai delicacies reimagined as vegetarian treats. Intrigued? We sure were.
Toa 66 is a vegetarian tasting menu-only restaurant founded by Ishaa Jogani Shah and Deval Shah, who is a hospitality entrepreneur. This is the couple's first restaurant venture. Ishaa drew on her experiences growing up as a vegetarian foodie in Bangkok to conceptualise Toa 66. There's also a husband-and-wife duo at the helm of the kitchen. Thai chefs Kanchit and Natanong Vongvichai bring over 35 years of culinary experience to this Mumbai restaurant. Their creations reflect their mastery of traditional techniques that they use to work magic with seasonal ingredients. The calm ambience is characterised by warm tones and wooden elements. There's a sense of intimacy that makes it feel homely and personal in a good way.
Our meal began with bowls of Kway Tiew Pak Mo, featuring an aromatic broth with water chestnut ensconced inside rice noodle sheets. Since our visit was during the rainy season, this mix of soup and slurp was especially comforting. The next course, Krathong Thong, provided a different sensation to enjoy. We bit into delicately crisp cups filled with a pounded vegetable stuffing and topped with a sweet mango puree. The course that followed was a take on Thailand's famous "drunken noodles" or Pad Kee Mao. This spicy dish contains no alcohol. It is believed to have been nicknamed so because it's eaten as a hangover cure. Others say it's called "drunken" because it pairs well with chilled beer.
The original version features stir-fried rice noodles, vegetables, meat, chillies, garlic, soy sauce and fish sauce. Toa 66's Popiya Khi Mao reinvents it by wrapping the stir-fried veggies in rice paper and using green peppercorns to add heat. The result is reminiscent of a spring roll. It's had an unapologetically high level of spiciness. We had to take extra sips of our (sweet) drinks to combat the effect of the fiery morsels. Depending on your spice endurance, it could be a treat or a terror.
We were glad a cooling palate cleanser - the Watermelon Larb - was next. The juicy fruit was topped with a little toasted sticky rice, kaffir lime, and shallots. A hearty portion of Northern Khao Soi arrived as the main course. This is not the popular Burmese version that's a staple at many Asian restaurants. Rather, this is a spicier version which has influences from Northern Thailand as well as Burma. Soft rice noodles were submerged in a broth that was rich but not too thick. It was filled with the goodness of different types of veggies and spices, making it a satiating meal in itself.
The next course felt felt a precursor to the main dessert. Khao Niao Mamuang features ripe mango specially sourced from Bangkok, served with sides of sticky rice and coconut cream. After the elaborate flavours of the Khao Soi, this light plate soothed our taste buds and prepared them for a final indulgence: the Thai Cannelle. This sweet treat ensured our meal ended on a bang. We loved every bite of this soft steamed date cake, enhanced with salted toffee, crunchy roasted Thai cashews, and a scoop of coconut cream.
During our meal, we tasted multiple zero-proof drinks that elevated our experience of the food. If you want something fuss-free yet fun, we highly recommend the Parallel, a fizzy concoction of apple brew and jasmine tea spiked with cinnamon. We also liked the Bangkok Glory, which was like a Thai lemon soda infused with the tartness of kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and galangal. Coffee lovers, don't miss the Cafe Yen made with Thai coconut milk and cold brew. We asked for ours to be strong, and it didn't let us down! We also tasted the Bad Thai, which was explained to us as a take on Pad Thai in a glass (a combination of vanilla-spiced house "rum," clarified coconut ice cream, Pad Thai dressing and lime). We must admit, this one turned out to be a bit too experimental for our taste. But the attempt was nevertheless appreciated. In general, it was heartening to discover zero-proof sips that exuded balance and attention to detail usually found in cocktail programmes. The city needs more thoughtful mocktail menus like this one. Toa 66 doesn't serve any alcohol (yet), though Deval told us that a specialised beer and wine programme is in the works.
Most tasting menu restaurants in the city feel exclusive and sumptuous. There's a sense of opulence that delights, but it may not put everyone at ease. Toa 66 shows that tasting menus don't need to be imposing experiences, nor do they need to be overly complicated. Its approach is more of a casual, open embrace - one we're glad we surrendered to.