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The National
15 hours ago
- The National
How to explore Copenhagen for a lower cost with eco-friendly app
CopenPay, then, is a breath of fresh air – a new, innovative initiative that brings joy and real benefits for both locals and visitors; helping you literally clean up Copenhagen as you visit. 'CopenPay is something real that improves our city,' beams marine biologist Izzy Smith, as she guides me, my wife and our two teenage daughters around the Danish capital's spectacular waterways in our battery operated small boat. Izzy works for GoBoat, which offers free rentals if you fish out rubbish on your trip, as part of CopenPay, a scheme whose organisers stress rewards 'conscious actions'. READ MORE: 'Not in our name': Protests start in Aberdeen amidst Donald Trump visit As CopenPay develops, it's growing organic arms and legs. 'This summer, we're recording how much rubbish people pick up and what type,' explains Izzy. 'And then we're collating the data to measure trends and to learn more about the issues facing our city. We're also working with the WWF and other bodies on regeneration and biodiversity programmes.' We ease around the Frederiksholms Kanal and the Christianshavns Kanal, armed with wee fishing nets. I wasn't sure what my teens would make of this, but they buy in instantly, fishing out a crisp packet and a soft drink can as we slip along in the shadow of some of Scandinavia's most impressive architecture. 'Everyone wins as you get to have fun, save money and Copenhagen becomes cleaner. It's been really popular. I've got family in Aberdeen, so maybe you should try something like this in Scotland,' adds Izzy. Trying something like this in Scotland is a brilliant idea. In 30 years of travelling around more than 100 countries I've just not seen anything quite like CopenPay, with almost 70 businesses embracing it. Søren Tegen Pedersen, CEO at Wonderful Copenhagen, believes CopenPay can create wider ripples: 'Our long-term vision is included in our tourism strategy 'Copenhagen, all-inclusive'. Here, we adopt a holistic approach to tourism, which considers both its positive and negative impacts. Our vision is to make tourism in Copenhagen contribute positively, not only locally and nationally, but also globally.' I had worried that despite good intentions CopenPay – in its first full year after a successful pilot last summer – might crumble against the practicalities of the real world, but it couldn't start any better. As we arrive sustainably by train we're rewarded with vouchers at the station that, using the Too Good To Go app, give us a free meal made up of items 7-Eleven would have otherwise thrown out. It's enough for breakfast for us all. Our other three vouchers are similarly rewarding – one place giving us four heaving bags of pastries we passed on to some appreciative locals as 'a gift from Scotland'. One of the things that really impresses about CopenPay is that everyone seems to be embracing it; even our hotels. At the hip boutique 25 Hours Hotel Indre By ( in the city centre, we enjoy free iced coffees when we show on our phones that we've walked 5000 steps. At the swish, towering Crowne Plaza Copenhagen Towers by IHG ( – another great base, just five minutes by train from the airport, CopenPay gives us the option of a free yoga session, though I opt to peer instead over the sea to Sweden from our 23rd-floor room. You don't go to any Scandinavian city for a budget break, but CopenPay helps take the edge off. And while you're saving money you're travelling more sustainably. The Copenhagen Museum just ask us to show we've arrived using public transport to grab a free coffee. At the Danish Architecture Centre, you can get a free guide to go with your veggie lunch. Their Recycle! temporary exhibition (until September 10) chimes well with CopenPay. And over lunch at the excellent Bryggeriet Apollo at the landmark Tivoli Garden – where we'd planned to go anyway – we all get a free CopenPay drink, with beer an option. I enjoy delicious Skarsgard prawns washed down with a free fresh lemonade. Handily we also had a Copenhagen Card, which offers free use of public transport – including to and from the airport – and entry to a whole host of attractions. This award-winning app proves seriously easy to use and dovetails well with CopenPay – it allows us easy access to places, where we then enjoy the CopenPay rewards for our sustainable actions. Sustainability is a serious multi-faceted issue facing travel today and it's reassuring to see a city taking a stand and doing something about it in a practical way. As we handed those rubbish picking nets back at the end of our boat trip, my youngest Emma smiled: 'I didn't know going out picking up rubbish could be such fun. Maybe it's something we should try back home'. Well done Copenhagen and well done CopenPay, an innovative scheme that will hopefully inspire other cities. Further information at It's best to book CopenPay activities in advance as some are on specific dates and others have limited spaces.
The Independent
2 days ago
- The Independent
Tadej Pogacar admits he ‘can't wait for Tour de France to be over' as race nears Paris finish
Tour de France race leader Tadej Pogacar admitted that he 'can't wait for it to be over' and that he is counting down the kilometres until the race finishes in Paris on Sunday. The Slovenian is closing in on his fourth Tour crown after establishing a commanding four-and-a-half-minute lead over nearest rival and two-time champion Jonas Vingegaard. Vingegaard's Visma-Lease a Bike team rode an attritional race on Thursday, the race's 'queen stage' from Vif to the summit finish at Col de la Loze, in a bid to crack the defending champion. But Pogacar held firm and in fact eked out another 11 seconds with a sprint to the line which dropped his Danish challenger. Despite his impeccable form, four stage wins, and a near-unassailable lead, Pogacar admitted afterwards that he was tiring of the sport's most prestigious race. 'This is the point where I ask myself: 'Why am I still here?' It's so long these three weeks. 'You just count the kilometres to Paris, and yes, I can't wait for it to be over so I can do some other nice stuff in my life as well.' As the yellow jersey Pogacar is subject to more media attention, press conferences, and post-race protocols than other races, which may have compounded the exhaustion of racing for hours each day for three weeks. The Slovenian added, 'But I try to enjoy every day on the bike as much as I can. The fans really help. It's still nice to ride, even in the third week, when you're all tired and annoyed by everybody around you, and you just want to go home. 'When you ride on these big climbs and people cheer on you and give you the extra motivation, you then realise that it's not so bad. Especially if you have a good legs, then it makes everything quite good.' Pogacar racked up two stage wins in the opening week before back-to-back victories on the race's first real mountaintop finish on Hautacam and in the mountainous time trial to Peyragudes, in the Pyrenees in the second week. However, he has ridden a largely defensive ride in the third and final week, marking Vingegaard's attacks and only countering the Dane in the final moments to stretch his advantage. 'I wanted the win, but [defending] the yellow jersey is a priority,' Pogacar explained of his tactical shift. Col de la Loze was infamous as the scene of his collapse in the 2023 Tour, which Vingegaard went on to win, but this time the riders climbed it from the technically easier side at Courchevel, rather than Meribel as in 2023. 'I can't wait to climb the other side of the Col de la Loze in the Tour de France,' Pogacar said. 'I want to win that stage. This side of the Col de la Loze is much easier, but the other side I want to return [to] for a victory.'
Metro
2 days ago
- Metro
I explored the ‘forgotten' European islands just two hours from UK
'We don't worry about Trump,' Leene tells me over a pungent plate of fermented lamb. 'We worry about what's happening out there.' She waves a hand at the window that frames the slate grey sky. Sheltering against sheets of sideways rain, we're in the only restaurant on Fugloy, the easternmost island of the forgotten Faroe Islands. Population at last count: 38 or 40, depending on who you ask. A passing destroyer flying Denmark's colours steers conversation to US takeover threats on nearby Greenland, and the disturbing state of the world. But in far-flung corners like Fugloy, people focus on what matters: when they can fish, when they can sow, and when they can safely sail off this craggy lump of rock. Leene, a Danish woman in her 60s who met her husband while working as a teacher on a neighbouring island, returns each summer on a sort of pilgrimage to his homeplace. She's here by happy accident. I'm here on purpose. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. The Faroe Islands are only a short flight from the UK. Yet they're miles off the standard traveller's radar. Chances are, you haven't been. You might struggle to pinpoint them on a map. When I told friends about my upcoming visit, one confused it with Faro, in Portugal. Another asked if 'those were the ones near Egypt'. Adrift in the swell of the North Atlantic, this 18-piece jigsaw of islands erupts from the ocean about 200 miles north of Scotland and 300 miles southeast of Iceland. It's wild and windswept, and feels both ancient and modern, all at once. Turf-roofed cottages and wooden churches embroider the vast, treeless moors. Cairn-marked trails weave across barren mountains. Beneath them, a remarkable network of bridges and road tunnels has linked the seven most populous islands since the 1970s. Hidden within is the world's only underwater roundabout, loomed over by a giant aquamarine jellyfish. Even the most inaccessible hamlets are now connected, and somehow, phone signal is stronger than it is in London. On the ferry to Fugloy, where I meet half a dozen tradesmen and a few curious gazes, the 5G on my phone never drops. When the tourist board invited me to come and see what life on the Faroes is like, I'll admit I wasn't exactly fizzing with excitement. It's not somewhere I knew much about, besides the controversial dolphin hunt that makes headlines when it happens a few times each year. In my ignorance, I dismissed the Faroe Islands as a bleaker version of places I was already familiar with. I'm Irish; I know a thing or two about rain and grass. Instead, I discovered a fascinating nation with deep ties to the nature that sustains it, a quirky food scene rooted in native ingredients, and a unique approach to tourism that protects the land and local communities. In a world gripped by uncertainty, the Faroes feel truthful and real. Part of what sets this rocky outcrop apart is a willingness to do something few places could conceive of: closing to tourists. The brainchild of a Danish creative agency, the 'Closed for Maintenance' concept shuts the Faroe Islands to general visitors for one weekend each year. In their place are 100 volunteers who, in exchange for bed, board and a locally-made hat, come to repair footpaths, paint signs and make trails safe for the next tranche of hikers. The project may only happen once a year (it's already been and gone, in May), but part of the vision for tourism in the Faroes is to find a balance between the well-being of the 54,000 people who call these islands home, and providing a good experience for visitors. Everywhere I go, signs remind you to 'keep off the grass' and show virðing , the Faroese word for respect. On the mist-shrouded cliffside of Hvithamar, the Faroes' showstopper viewpoint, the raw beauty of this wild and unspoiled landscape is fully revealed. Dwarfed by fjords and mountains that stretch into the clouds, I feel like a microscopic crumb in an infinite universe. It's so striking, I wouldn't dream of leaving anything but footprints (on the designated pathways) behind. In 2015, an economic crisis in the Faroe Islands had a strange effect. As financial difficulties brought an end to an import craze that had blighted almost every domestic industry, people began to look inwards. Faroese culture entered a renaissance in knitting, in food, and in music. In Tórshavn, the chocolate box capital that's more small town than city, there are no high street chains or big fast food names. Instead, there's Tutl, an independent record store run by local musicians; Roks, a hip fine dining restaurant that serves things like sea urchin and vanilla-flavoured scallops; and Gudrun & Gudrun, a high-end wool clothing boutique run by two Faroese women. Like many indigenous languages around the world, the Faroese language is enjoying a revival. For Lea Kampmann, a young singer-songwriter from Vestmanna who performs in Faroese, it's about identity. 'I write about my experiences, about my grandmother who is no longer with us. Doing it in the language makes me feel connected to who I am and where I come from,' she says. Life imitates art. In Kirkja, the village where I meet Leene on Fugloy, young relatives of ageing residents are coming for summer. Some are even experimenting with new methods of farming. 'Life is coming back,' she says. 'If it had been up to my generation, we would have turned this place into a ghost town, but now it's different. The young feel the connection.' At Anna and Óli Rubeksen's elegant house in Velbastadur, I experience Heimablidni , a traditional Faroese supper club in the home of a resident. All over the islands are people who host guests from around the world for dinner, and I'm breaking bread (or in this case, wind-dried mutton) with two of the best. As Anna prepares a feast of prawns, lamb and honey-roasted potatoes, Óli pours me a gin mixed with Faroese rhubarb liqueur, and we chat about why they do what they do. 'For us, it's about possibilities,' he says. 'If we say no, and we don't welcome people into our home, ok, that's it. End of story. If we say yes, you never know what might come of it, or who you might meet.' Over a four-course dinner served with locally brewed pilsner, I ask about the backlash to the Grindadrap, the hunt that has led animal rights campaigners to call for a boycott of the islands. Hundreds of whales and dolphins are slaughtered in Faroese waters each year, with the meat divided among villages. Internationally, it's widely condemned, but in the Faroes, public opinion is divided. Some see it as archaic and inhumane, others as a practice that has been part of the Faroese way of life for centuries. Anna raises a double standard: if you slaughtered pigs in the open in the UK, people would be talking about it in the same way. But they don't, because it's done behind closed doors. It's a fair point. Approximately 11 million pigs are killed in the UK each year, according to the RSPCA. In the taxi from the Rubeksen's to the Hilton Garden Inn, the only international hotel on the islands, I get talking to my driver, Magnus. He's surprised to hear I made the journey to Fugloy. All told, it's about two-and-a-half hours, by car and then boat. But in 57 years on the Faroes, he's never been. 'Young people are interested, I suppose,' he muses. 'In any case, the young people here are proud of where they come from.' More Trending They have reason to be. I think of all I have seen in my time on the islands. The breathtaking Múlafossur waterfall, crashing down into a tidal lagoon. The hidden hamlets, where grass-roofed houses sit in the cradle of mighty fjords. The resilience of tiny communities that seem to exist on the edge of the Earth. In times like these, it's easy to see the appeal of this peace and isolation. As Leene says, 'here, we only worry about what we can see.' The world might forget about the Faroes, but these islands know exactly who they are. Fly direct from the UK to the Faroe Islands with Atlantic Airways. Flights run year-round from Edinburgh, and during the summer season from London Gatwick. London Gatwick service to Vagar runs until 31 August, with prices from £120 one way. For more information, head to Visit Faroe Islands. If the thought of planning a trip feels overwhelming, fear not — I've pulled together the best of everything I saw and did. Feel free to steal it. Day 1 Arrive at Vagar Airport and rent a car with 62N, a rental company with offices attached to the terminal. Before heading to the capital, turn left and drive to the village of Gásadalur and its iconic Múlafossur waterfall. After, stop at Bøur, a tiny hamlet with cute turf houses. On a clear day, you'll see the famous view of Tindhólmur & Dranganir. On to Tórshavn to check in at the Hilton Garden Inn, a comfortable base with an excellent breakfast and decent bar snacks. (Rooms from £98 per night.) Stroll into town, about a 20-minute walk, and wander the ancient cobbled alleyways. Have dinner at Roks (it means 'silly' in Faroese). Day 2 Head to Fugloy, the easternmost of the Faroe Islands. To do this, drive from Tórshavn and head to Hvannasund (up north) and park the car close to the harbour. Take the ferry (it's a working boat called Ritan) from there. You can buy tickets onboard. The boat makes three stops, I suggest disembarking at Hattarvík and hiking over the mountain for about an hour to Kirkja, the largest of Fugloy's villages. Explore this tiny hamlet and stop for lunch at Kalalon, the island's only cafe. It's run by a wonderful woman called Amalja, who has lived on Fugloy her whole life. She doesn't speak English, but someone there will. Catch the ferry back to your car and head back to Tórshavn for dinner. On the drive, keep an eye out for Múli, an abandoned ghost village. For grub, I recommend trying Paname Cafe or grabbing takeaway from the popular fish and chips hut, Fisk und Kips. Day 3 Drive to the mountain village of Funningur and park up, then walk out to Hvithamar, the most iconic view in the Faroe Islands. The hike is moderately challenging and takes about an hour. Then drive on to Gjógv for a stroll in the village (there is a Guesthouse there called Gjáargarður, if you are hungry for lunch). After that, swing by Eiði and see the world-famous football pitch and also the beautiful view of The Giant & The Witch. Head back to Tórshavn around lunchtime and wander the shops, such as Tutl and Gudrun & Gudrun. Grab an open sandwich at Bitin, a trendy little cafe in the heart of town. Day 4 Start the day right with a floating sauna experience at Saundadypp, in the town of Runavik. Enjoy an evening of Heimablidni, the traditional Faroese supper club at the home of a resident. I highly recommend Anna and Óli Rubeksen's house in Velbastadur. MORE: Fake American catches Paris restaurants charging more than French diners MORE: New £17 travel charge comes into force across popular Greek islands MORE: The Greek island tourists haven't destroyed yet – revealed by Lonely Planet's founder
