I explored Europe's 'most boring city' and found it bursting with life

Metro

26-04-2025

Having read some downright withering reviews on Reddit, I imagined Athens to be a dirty, boring and overwhelmingly hectic city.
But while the rundown outskirts are certainly serving 'shabby chic', the heart of Greece's ancient capital is extraordinarily beautiful.
With labyrinthine cobbled alleyways, thousand-years-old ruins and street art that rivals Berlin, the birthplace of democracy gets an unfair rap.
Whether you're into architecture, food, mythology or lying horizontal on the beach, Athens has something for everyone — it's time it gets the clout it deserves.
I spent four days in the 'Cradle of Western Civilisation' to find the best it has to offer tourists in 2025.
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Fresh off an Aegean Airlines flight from London, I bundle into a taxi for the 40-minute drive to NEW Hotel, a modern five-star that's as much an art gallery as a place to sleep.
Through the car window, I hear the sounds of the city: horns honking and street vendors chattering.
Having read dozens of blog posts declaring Athens to be the ugliest, most degraded city in Europe, my expectations were low.
But largely thanks to my accommodation, first impressions were good.
Right in the historic heart of Athens, NEW Hotel is young and modern, with a terrace that captures a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding districts. Double rooms start from £238.
Designed by acclaimed Brazilian architects Fernando and Humberto Campana, each floor of the hotel reflects a different element of Greek culture, from shadow puppetry to ancient sculptures.
Gazing out, I see a city humming with life, and prominent landmarks, including the Acropolis and Syntagma Square. It doesn't look so dirty to me.
From quirky flea markets to creative ceramics, Athens surprised me at every turn.
Right in the thick of things is Monastiraki Flea Market, a treasure trove of vintage bric-a-brac where you can find everything from handmade jewellery to custom guitars.
Named one of Europe's best vintage markets by Lonely Planet, the cobbled streets are quaint and cheery, and a lovely place to spend a few hours.
There are countless street food joints to recommend, but I suggest resting your feet at Cafe Avissinia, a cute bistro that serves traditional Greek fare with a view of the stalls from its terrace. The market is open daily dusk to dawn.
If high-end shopping is more your thing, head to Ermou Street, just below Syntagma Square. You'll know you're walking in the right direction when you start to see determined shoppers marching around clutching Zara and Sephora bags.
Athens is renowned for its rich history of pottery, a creative scene that still thrives today.
The word 'ceramic' originates from the ancient Greek word keramos , meaning 'potter's clay' or 'pottery'.
In ancient times, clay was more affordable than copper and precious metals, so it became the preferred material for everyday utensils.
I tried my hand at the ancient art at YiArt, a studio in the upscale Thiseio neighbourhood.
At the ceramics seminar (€35 for a two-and-a-half-hour class), owners Ioanna and Penelope, guide you through the intricacies of pottery craft.
Shaping the clay is therapeutic, and it's satisfying to watch your clay develop from a round ball to something with personality and character.
I doubted my skills until my fellow would-be potters remarked how easy I was making it look – art is all about perspective.
Tea and coffee are served during the workshop and if you're lucky, YiArt's resident cat might come and keep you company.
It might be the most touristy destination in all of Europe, but no visit to Athens is complete without seeing the Acropolis.
April and May are some of the best months to visit, before hordes of tourists descend for summer. (Entry to the Acropolis is €20.)
Inside, I learn the history of the word Athens. Ancient Athens was made up of dozens of small villages that were amalgamated into one over time. This, my tour guide Betty tells me, is why we say Athens — as opposed to Athen.
Athens can be stiflingly hot in summer. The best time to visit is in the shoulder season, which runs from April to May, and September to October.
In April, temperatures are in the sweet spot for walking, with highs of 20°C and lows of 12°C at night. You'll need sunnies, but you'll want to pack a light jacket for evenings too.
Below the Acropolis' hilltop outcrop, Anafiotika Village is beautiful but often overlooked by tourists.
Ancient terraced houses painted in Greece's white and blue line the narrow streets, with classic tavernas tucked under winding stairs and the scent of spanokopita (Greek spinach and feta pie) wafting in the air.
If the Acropolis feels too obvious, just a 25-minute walk is the First Cemetery of Athens, a fascinating under-the-radar sight with no queues, and no entry fee.
Marvel at the marble tombstones and lavish memorials to great writers, actors and poets of the past.
Half Note, one of the city's best jazz clubs, is also right beside the cemetery, and worth a stop after a stroll.
Museums are as common as pigeons in Athens, but an unexpected highlight was the Museum of Cycladic Art, home to one of the most important and complete collections of Cycladic art in the world. More Trending
Cycladic art is best known for its small-scale, marble figurines – through history, the sculpture styles evolved through many shifts. The museum is often described as one of Athens' best hidden gems.
For culture vultures keen to enjoy other lesser-known spots, try the Eleni Marneri Galerie, a showroom of modern Greek jewellery, or the Agia Marina Church.
There's no doubt that Athens serves grunge along with grace. It's anarchical, arty, and at times, it is a bit grubby.
But there are treasures to be found in the Greek capital, if only you know where to look.
The main airport in Athens is Athens International Airport, also known as Eleftherios Venizelos. If you want to travel in style, fly with Aegean and enjoy one of the lounges between check-in and boarding.
Travelling in May, Metro found direct flights from London to Athens from £73.
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