How to Get Better Skin with Less Effort, According to Experts
We know more about how to care for our skin than ever before, but with a dizzying array of science-based options out there all vying for a spot on our bathroom counter, things can get overwhelming fast.
If you've ever bailed on a shopping cart full of serums, moisturizers, exfoliants, and creams in a state of skin care routine overload, this guide is for you.
Keep it simple — and smart. Instead of trying to maintain a 10-step routine every day, break down your regimen into daily, weekly, and monthly tasks.
What to do every day
1. Cleanse your skin every night
Your skin may be fine with skipping a morning wash, or sticking to just water or a very quick wipe with cleansing (aka micellar) water. But when it comes to your nighttime routine, cleaning off the slurry of makeup, sunscreen, dirt, oil, and bacteria teeming in your pores is a must.
Cleansing tip: David Lortscher, MD, board certified dermatologist, is in favor of micellar water: 'It cleanses, removes makeup, and moisturizes in one step by using tiny molecules — micelles — that pull the dirt and oil out of your skin.' Follow that step up with a gentle cleanser.
If you'd rather double cleanse (without micellar water), use an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup and sunscreen, followed by a foaming cleanser. If your skin doesn't tolerate foaming cleansers, then use a gentle non-foaming product. This is a thorough but super gentle way to cleanse everything off of your skin without stripping it.
2. Wear sunscreen
Yes, we've all heard the warnings and are still tempted to zip out for errands sans sunscreen, or to dodge that familiar greasy, heavy feeling — but sun damage goes far beyond just a tan: UV radiation is behind photoaging, inflammation, and skin cancer.
Lortscher estimates that UV damage is responsible for 'up to 80% of skin aging' and recommends a minimum of SPF 30 UVA and UVB protection daily.
SPF tip: Use a stand-alone sunscreen. Even if your daily moisturizer or makeup has a stated SPF, keep in mind that the SPF rating is based on a volume of sunscreen that's far more than people think — 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin, to be exact. That's 1/4 teaspoon on average.
You should apply 2 tablespoons of sunscreen to your face and body, which is about the size of a shot glass. For your face specifically, use a nickel-sized amount.
You can't add up SPF
Keep in mind that even if you're wearing multiple products with SPF, you can't 'add up' the SPFs to equal 30. You need to make sure that one of the products is SPF 30 on its own.
3. Think about your skin concerns
Don't feel like you have to slather on everything every day. Instead, focus on what your skin needs. Does it need a moisturizer to fight dryness? Or is it dehydrated? Are you using a prescription that needs to be applied daily?
Your skin's needs may change wildly due to climate, season, weather, and age. If you wake up on a humid day and can't bear the thought of applying your usual rich moisturizer, swap it for a lighter pick. Don't feel like you have to do the same thing every day — your regimen should be enjoyable and relaxing.
Routine tip: The best routine is a doable one. Once you've taken care of the basics, it's OK to stop there or add steps and products if you feel like it.
You can pamper your winter-dry skin with an overnight sleeping pack or soothe summer skin with a refreshing sheet mask.
What to do every week
1. Exfoliate with restraint
Even with regular cleansing, layers of dead skin can build up on the surface, leaving your face feeling rough or dull.
Exfoliating once a week can help your skin look and feel smoother, brighter, and will reduce the likelihood of clogged pores.
Beware of manual exfoliants (aka scrubs)
Scrubs featuring rough or sharp particles can cause microtears in the skin. Scrubs can also worsen acne, Lortscher explains, as the 'friction from aggressive scrubbing will backfire. This causes irritation, and irritation leads to more acne.'
Instead of a scrub, consider a chemical exfoliant, such as an AHA or BHA. These dislodge excess dead skin, allowing it to be gently wiped away.
Pro tip: Daily or weekly, not both. Some AHA/BHA chemical exfoliants are designed for daily use. If you're already using a daily exfoliant, you may want to avoid a more intense once-weekly exfoliation, as your skin will already be more sensitive. If not, your skin might benefit from a weekly exfoliant to slough off dead skin.
2. Declog your pores
Check out the state of your pores: Is your nose teeming with blackheads and sebaceous filaments? Even though you shouldn't try to extract them yourself, congested pores are annoying at best and inviting acne at worst.
A purifying face mask, such as a clay- or charcoal-based mask, or a gentle oil massage may help to loosen clogs and minimize the appearance of your pores. Just don't pick at your skin!
What to do once a month
1. Check your expiry dates
From face masks to serums, you may not use up products before they expire. Once a month, check the expiration dates of your products for anything that needs to be tossed.
Even though the sweltering humidity may have you skipping your richer moisturizers, leftovers don't mean they're still good to use — especially if it's a product you scoop out with your fingers. This method could possibly introduce bacteria or contaminants, allowing them to thrive in the jar. Consider discarding these products after 6 months.
2. Skin self-check
1. Chemical peels
Daily chemical exfoliation is one thing, but full-on chemical peels aren't something you should be trying at home. Glycolic acid, one of the most commonly used alpha-hydroxy acid exfoliants, can cause increased photosensitivity that can last up to a week even at a low daily concentration.
Considering the high concentrations and increased risk of damage with chemical peels, it's best to have these procedures in the office of a professional who can guide you through post-peel care and precautions.
2. Squeezing and popping clogged pores
We've all been there — you wake up the morning before a big event, and you've got an unwelcome blemish waving at you from every reflective surface.
As tempting as it may be to squeeze that zit to oblivion — don't! See your dermatologist for something that will usually shrink this within 36 hours, like a cortisone shot.
3. Extractions
Those eye-catching blackheads and bumpy whiteheads may look ripe for emptying. But restrain yourself from going on a search-and-destroy mission! Extractions are something that is best done by a professional.
4. Skin diagnosis and treatment
As inviting as it is to look for solutions to serious skin troubles in over-the-counter products and popular remedies, self-diagnosis and DIY treatment can be frustrating at best. At worst, you may actually damage your skin.
'In the case of mild acne, over-the-counter medications along with aesthetician treatments may be sufficient,' says Lortscher, but for 'more inflamed, extensive, or unresponsive acne, prescription medications are usually indicated, and can only be obtained from a dermatologist or other licensed medical provider.'
Also, don't forget to ask your dermatologist for a baseline skin cancer check once a year, or whenever you see a spot you're concerned about.
Do you need a dermatologist or an aesthetician?
'If you want a facial treatment, need product recommendations, have some mild breakout or dry patches on your skin, you might call your aesthetician,' suggests Lortscher, but for 'stubborn acne, [and] other skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or skin growths, you'll want to make an appointment with your dermatologist.'
Pro tip
See a derm for serious aesthetic concerns that might require surgery, especially if you're at higher risk for adverse side effects due to having a darker skin type or a propensity for scarring (such as keloids).
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