Accessories are opportunities for experimentation and self-expression. Take notes from stylist Kaamilah Thomas

Los Angeles Times

7 hours ago

Before even the utterance of a word, Kaamilah Thomas spoke for herself. A warm energy and eclectic style radiated from her, feet away from me, as my co-worker — now friend — called me over to introduce us. That was almost a year ago. Subversive tailoring, textured fabrics and a bold silhouette immediately made it clear Thomas worked in fashion, but in what capacity? Styling. It made sense. In a world oversaturated by minimalism and monochrome, Thomas' layered patterns and playful approach stood out.
Thomas doesn't dress for any one gaze; she dresses to express her most authentic self, an ethos that seeps into her work — building characters, expanding narratives and crafting entire moods. 'I love to experiment and let the clothes guide me,' she says. 'Sometimes I start with a story, and sometimes the clothes speak to me.'
Now, nearly a year later, we meet again — long overdue — this time at her new home: a 1920s converted horse stable tucked in the heart of Koreatown. The property, once owned by an artist, has been transformed into a patchwork of bungalows and stables housing multigenerational creatives. Her neighbor, an actor, is soft-spoken and kind. The whole space feels like a secret, a place that's been inhabited by artists who've allowed it to shape them.
Thomas' path into styling wasn't linear. She explored various creative corners before finding her rhythm as the personal stylist to singer Fousheé. That collaboration cracked something open, an opportunity to stretch her visual language on a larger stage. 'Fousheé allowed me the freedom to be weird,' Thomas says. 'To try things I wasn't sure would work, and then realize they did.' However, even as the stakes shifted — from Nike campaigns to editorials — her approach remained grounded in storytelling. Her references are instinctual: the curve of a staircase, the glossy page of a magazine, memories of watching her mother getting ready for a night out with girlfriends.
Thomas' creative work starts with an outfit — her outfit. And it starts in a closet — her closet. Before you can create visions and build worlds with other people, you must understand the minute details for yourself. When it comes to getting dressed, the details are often in the accessories. A simple necklace or beloved leather bag — in Thomas' case, several leather bags — may seem inconsequential when envisioning a story, but accessories are conduits for setting intentions and building identity. For Thomas, her pieces hold memories (that time she felt like Rihanna) and are vessels for confidence, experimentation and self-expression. Her accessories are time stamps in style, each one special and worth its own story.
Among the small piles of clothes scattered across Thomas' furniture, with word that there's a closet upstairs housing so much more, a statement Anna Sui beanie lies in my periphery. It has silver sequins and is semi-transparent — something out of the film 'The Devil Wears Prada,' but a contemporary piece, purchased sometime this year. 'When I have this on, I feel like that bitch,' Thomas states. Confidence ensues. 'I went to Living Room in West Hollywood, by Milk Studios. I walked out and I saw Miguel, and I was like, 'Oh wow, this place is it. This is a crazy spot.' I went all out that night [style-wise]. [...] I was making my entrance past these girls with my little translucent sequined beanie — an introduction. One of them said, 'I love your outfit.' I felt like Rihanna at the CFDA Awards [2014]. I felt like her in that moment.'
'I don't know if you know about this bag,' Thomas leads with. I don't, but I sure do want to. She launches into how she likes to style her brown snakeskin Chloé Silverado bag — with 'one of those skirts that you can cinch and pull up a bit' and 'gladiator sandals.' For an everyday bag that she's had for a year now, it remains a staple, aligning with the recent resurgence of Chloé. 'I had it shipped to New York,' Thomas notes. 'I wore the f— out of it.'
An accessory that has taken on a life of its own, this army cap, with faded lettering spelling out Yoursie and rusted grommets, originally belonged to Thomas' dad during the Iraq war, when he performed stand-up comedy for American troops. Thomas now incorporates it into her wardrobe regularly. 'He gave it to Rasheed [her boyfriend]. But I stole it from him. It looks better on me.' While the army cap has been in her family for years, she only recently acquired it, allowing her to hold on to a piece of her father's past. 'It's just lived in, and I love it.'
All eyes are on this bag with neon yellow shoelace tassels as Thomas reaches for the worn leather strap — a patina that every leather goods owner hopes for, especially in a reclaimed vintage treasure. 'The first night I wore it [sometime last year], this girl came up to me and was like, 'Is that the Dirk Bikkembergs bag that you bought on Poshmark?' I was like, 'Yeah.' She said she was going to buy the bag. I was like, 'Too late.' I've learned that when you see something, especially something this rare, you have to just buy it. I'd have too much regret.'
In my lap is the bag that Thomas clutched the night of Miguel's cameo. This is now the third bag she's shared with me today. For Thomas, there are never too many bags, as she's constantly lending them to clients in her showroom, and each bag fulfills its own need, from errands to a night out dancing. I hand her the red leather, shell-beaded Gianfranco Ferré bag, with a horse-bit-like handle that she bought last summer — a vintage find. I want this bag. 'That [bag], I'd take to the club. And I have.'
Like many grails, you can't stop admiring them. This sentiment rings true for the '90s Save the Queen metal belt with dangling blue and red beads, which Thomas expresses deep love for. It's a new-ish relationship that started sometime this year, but already feels rich with history. While others lean into 'quiet luxury,' Thomas embraces a maximalist approach to style, guided by her playful sensibilities, quirky point of view and colorful childhood. 'Growing up, I always loved belly-dance belts. It has that shimmy, where I can dance a little bit.'
Thomas bought this versatile, metallic beaded, three-layered necklace over a year ago, marking the start of her boho era, an amalgamation of everything she loves: eclectic accessories, natural textures, and a free-spirited ethos. 'This is the vibe I'm resonating with, and this is the vibe I want,' she declares. 'I sort of style my looks around it. I can top off any outfit with it.' Like her other favorite accessories, this piece grounds her, allowing her truest self to shine through.
Michael Anthony Hall is a Los Angeles-based writer, filmmaker, curator and multidisciplinary artist. Their creative practice explores the complexities of identity, queerness, culture and art to establish shared connective tissue.