As spring unfolds, sea bream turns into a prized catch
One of the tastiest ways to enjoy tai is as taimeshi, sea bream with rice. Originating as a fishermen's meal in Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, taimeshi is now a staple in Japan and at its most popular when fresh tai is available.
Every part of the fish is prized for its refined umami and delicate flavor, which is why it is often served grilled whole and sprinkled with salt. Even when it's cut up and filleted, none of the fish is wasted: The ara (bones left after filleting) and head are used for making dashi.
The recipe below is a simplified version of tai that can be made in a rice cooker or a relatively small donabe (Japanese claypot) or heavy-bottomed cast-iron pot. A whole fish can be difficult to deal with, so purchase the ara and fish filets separately.
The fish is often served grilled whole and sprinkled with salt to complement its delicate taste. |
MAKIKO ITOH
Serves 2 to 3
Prep time: 40 minutes
Cook time: 40 minutes
Ingredients:
300 grams (2 rice cooker cups) uncooked white rice
160 grams (2 pieces) boned, skin-on tai filets
1 packet tai ara
Salt
1 10-centimeter square piece of kombu
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
Kinome (sanshō pepper leaves) for garnish
Directions:
1. Rinse the rice in four to five rounds of water. Drain the grains into a fine-meshed colander and set them aside for 30 minutes.
2. Cut the fish filets into bite-size pieces. Salt the filets and ara on both sides well. Preheat an oven to 250 degrees Celsius and line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment paper.
3. Soak the kombu in 500 milliliters of water for 20 to 30 minutes. In the meantime, put the ara on the lined baking sheet in the oven and grill for 10 minutes until they turn lightly browned but not burned. (Alternatively, grill the ara on a fish grill until lightly browned.)
4. Remove the kombu from the water, add the browned ara and cook over medium heat. When the water starts to bubble gently, turn the heat down to low and skim off any scum. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the ara.
5. Put the rice in a rice cooker and add the dashi from step 4, plus your soy sauce and sake. Top with the fish filets and cook on a regular setting until done. If using a pot, place the ingredients in a similar fashion. Cook with the lid on over high heat before turning it down to low and cooking for 15 minutes. Let it steam for 20 minutes.
6. Fluff up the rice gently with a rice paddle, taking care not to mash the fish filets too much. Garnish the rice with kinome. Any leftover rice can also make tasty onigiri (rice balls).
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