The quintessential village pub stay — in England's most underrated county

Times

3 days ago

Tollard Royal is a tick list of country clichés. Embedded in the glorious greenery of the Cranborne Chase and old enough to have a Domesday Book mention, it's a collection of roses-round-the-door cottages with a village pond, a war memorial and a 13th-century church with bell-ringers. Adding to the feelgood factor is the King John, an ivy-clad Victorian coaching inn where the locals are tweed-wearing hunting, shooting, fishing types and the visitors are hoping for a glimpse of the area's most famous gamekeeper, the film director Guy Ritchie, who lives up the road. The pub was taken over and renovated by the southwest beer-maker Butcombe Brewery last year, which has brought a boutique spin to this bucolic spot.
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Score 8/10In keeping with the locals' love of countryside pursuits, the eight rooms are named after makers of guns including Beretta, Purdey and Boss. Don't worry, the theme ends at the bedroom doors and interiors are cosy and peaceful. Walls are painted in mossy greens and cornflower blues or clad in creamy tongue and groove, with full-length arched metal mirrors, botanical prints and rural watercolours that are outshone by lovely views of the pub gardens and woodlands. A mix of antique and vintage furniture, bedheads covered in chintz or velvet and plenty of potted plants (though sadly plastic) brings a homely feel. There are thoughtful touches including pillow sprays and quirky bedside books. The ear plugs seem overcautious — the pub is roadside but there's barely any traffic late at night. In contrast, bathrooms feel functional rather than fancy and smaller rooms only have showers but all have full-sized, sweet-smelling toiletries by Bramley, made in nearby Semley.
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Score 7/10The welcome sign at the threshold refers to the 'wonderful' team. It's accurate if a little immodest because the staff are charming and ready to greet overnight guests with the offer of a complimentary pint of Butcombe beer or glass of wine or prosecco. The main salon is decorated in a stylish teal, with forest-green velvet banquettes and bistro chairs offset by a cheery red-tiled floor. The elegant sash windows ensure the room is light-filled. Dinner is a relaxed affair and, on balmy nights, happens on the terrace or in the tiered gardens, which rise up behind the car park. Starters of local asparagus and courgette, pea and watercress soup are summery and fresh, hearty mains of chalk-stream trout with tomato, olive and caper sauce and 28-day dry-aged steak with garlic butter, fat chips and roasted mushrooms leave little room for a dark chocolate brownie or lemon posset. Breakfast is equally meaty, with a loaded bacon butty, piled high with smoked streaky bacon, and a spicy shakshuka with a generous helping of flatbreads.
There's a pétanque court and tables in the tiered Victorian kitchen garden that climbs up the hillside behind the pub. It's topped by a summertime pavilion bar which serves drinks, tapas and seafood platters.
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Score 9/10Tollard Royal's Larmer Tree Gardens are 11 enchanting acres of grade II-listed Victorian pleasure grounds, with ancient trees, tranquil woodlands and blooming camellias, rhododendrons and hydrangeas (£4; larmer tree.co.uk). There is a beautiful walk from the pub into the Cranborne Chase, which is an area of outstanding natural beauty. The Saxon hilltop town of Shaftesbury is a short drive away with its cobbled Gold Hill, independent shops and antique emporiums.
Price B&B doubles from £110Restaurant mains from £17Family-friendly YDog-friendly YAccessible Y
Susan d'Arcy was a guest of Butcombe Boutique Inns (butcombe.com)