Mountain tales and wild mushrooms: High on life in China's Lijiang

The Star

6 days ago

Before us stood a dazzling formation of performers, dressed in bright traditional attire, dancing to the entrancing sounds of musical instruments echoing through the thin mountain air.
This was an outdoor theatrical performance called Impression Lijiang, which unfolded against the backdrop of China's famous Jade Dragon Snow Mountain range. And we were lucky enough to witness this cultural spectacle during our hosted stay at Club Med Lijiang recently.
Staged at an elevation of more than 3,000m above sea level, the hour-long show was not only a treat for the senses, but it was also a truly moving piece.
Our guide, Li, explained that Impression Lijiang, which has been around for two decades, was created by the critically-acclaimed Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yimou, known for films like Hero and Raise The Red Lantern.
Zhang was also the brainchild behind the opening and closing ceremonies for both the Beijing 2008 Summer Olympics, and Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics.
Li said that Zhang was inspired by the residents of Yunnan's highland area and made it his mission to showcase the people's culture and unwavering spirit by bringing their stories to life through theatre.
A real-life tale
Based on true events and everyday realities, Impression Lijiang sheds light on the lives and values of the region's ethnic minorities, as well as 'their struggles and deep-rooted bond with nature', according to a brochure.
We thought the performers were professional actors because of how well they danced, but it turns out they were just ordinary townsfolk from various ethnic groups like the Naxi, Bai, and Yi, as well as the Tibetan communities.
'They are mostly farmers or taxi drivers, who journey up the mountain every day to share their heritage with visitors from near and far,' Li shared.
The stage felt like an open-air stadium, with its wide-open seating – only instead of a manicured field, we had the breathtaking mountains for our view.
A word of advice: Wear long sleeves and take the free cap at the entrance, because you will need it to protect yourself from the sun rays.
There were two parts to the act: Impression Of Snow Mountain and Impression Of Ancient City. The first one centred on the people's connection to the mountain – how it shaped their lives, beliefs and identities.
The second act, meanwhile, dived into human experiences.
Among the highlights was a funeral procession, where a line of 'mourners' marched silently, carrying a plaque across the stage.
An equally vivid scene was the artistic parade of individuals – all clad in vibrant costumes – on horseback. That's when it struck us that this wasn't just a spectacle, we were watching a living history unfolding through visual storytelling.
Blue Moon Valley is famed for its picturesque white limestone terraces.
Near the Impression Lijiang stage is the Blue Moon Valley; both are nestled within the mountains at the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area, about 23km from our accommodation.
Li said that Blue Moon Valley is home to four pristine lakes: Yuye Lake, Jingtan Lake, Lanyue Lake and Tingtao Lake. The entire area is fed by the melting glaciers of the snow mountain.
The valley is also known for its white limestone terraces, where glacial water flows continuously over the rocks.
Adding to the charm was a calm and unbothered white yak. It was fluffy and surprisingly photogenic ... definitely a crowd favourite. Visitors can pose near this wild, mild ox for a small fee, but we chose to simply admire it from a distance.
To our surprise, tourists carrying portable oxygen canisters were a constant sight during our time on the mountains. You don't necessarily have to bring your own as they are sold at the stalls throughout the area.
'It's a wise choice to carry one with you, if you can't take the altitude or planning a longer hike,' said Li.
If you feel peckish, just head to the stalls selling snacks – and there are many – like steamed buns, meat skewers and even yak milk, for a quick bite.
In terms of food, Lijiang is famous for, among others, its rice sausage and pickled sour fish. You can sample these and other mouth-watering local delicacies at Club Med Lijiang.
Fun fact: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, apart from its snow-capped charm, serves as a source of water for the city of Lijiang, Li shared.
'Additionally, the towering pine trees dotting the surrounding area are the very material used to build Yunnan's quaint wooden houses,' he added.
You can go on a mushroom foraging tour with an expert in Lijiang.
Forest to table
A hat on my head, a waterproof jacket zipped tight, a walking stick in hand, and a rattan basket slung over my shoulders – I was all set for a wild mushroom foraging adventure.
Did you know that Yunnan Province is dubbed the 'kingdom of wild mushrooms' because of the abundance of fungi found in the region?
So if you are travelling to this part of China, make sure to include the Summer Mushroom Harvest Adventure, organised by a local community in Wenhai Village, in your itinerary.
If you're staying at Club Med Lijiang, just ask the 'gentle organisers' about this excursion or other programmes that they can help arrange for you.
Guided by a seasoned mushroom expert, who knew his way around the 'fungi kingdom', our trip promised a whole lot of fun and a great learning opportunity.
Our small group was briefed on the types of mushroom that call this forest home. Numerous species such as lao ren tou or catathelasma, and qing tou jun (green head mushroom), thrive here, thanks to the high elevation and subtropical climate.
Interestingly, some of these mushrooms can be eaten raw, but always make sure to check with your guide before consuming anything as there are many poisonous ones too.
As we ventured into the forest in the village, it started to drizzle, but not even the rain could stop us from our adventure. We were given a raincoat to keep us dry.
A rush of excitement coursed through us, as our feet touched the muddy ground. We were confident that our empty baskets would be filled with treasures from the woods.
The forest, which was blanketed in moss, felt even more refreshing after the rain. Along the way, we were rewarded with beautiful sceneries.
The steep ascent, coupled with gnarled roots from the lush trees along the path, was thrilling albeit slightly exhausting (due to the altitude – we were at about 3,300m high by then).
Throughout the 90-minute trek, our guide would occasionally stop to show us the proper way to forage.
For instance, the highly prized matsutake mushroom played hard to get, hiding beneath thick layers of pine needles. We dug the ground with our bare hands, sometimes unearthing a treasure, but most of the time we came up empty.
But luck was on our side in the end, as we managed to find three (or was it four?) matsutake mushrooms.
As we journeyed back down, we came across vibrant wildflowers. Our guide told us that while some of these flowers have medicinal properties, others can give you diarrhoea if consumed.
Just when we thought our adventure was over, the locals cooked our foraged finds and served them to us for lunch – a wild mushroom hotpot. We learned that this is a special Yunnan treat.
Steeped in history
Fluffy morning clouds hung low, partially obscuring the mountain one afternoon. Walking along the cobblestone paths, we came across locals going about their everyday routines, manning their stores. This is a typical scene at Baisha Ancient Town.
Lijiang comprises several 'ancient' towns, namely Baisha, Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe Ancient Town.
We managed to visit the first two, both of which are treasure troves of rich culture and history. Baisha, also the oldest town in Lijiang, is a delight for history buffs. Lining the streets are intricate traditional timber houses.
Another reason why this place is such a hit with tourists, we presumed, is the abundance of souvenirs and the wide selection of local treats available.
One thing that is oddly well-loved here is the dehydrated pumpkins. Heaps of them in varying sizes could be seen in baskets at the stores. And no, they aren't for eating, they are simply decorative ornaments.
As we strolled further, we encountered what seemed to resemble Egyptian hieroglyphs adorning the walls.
These, we were told, was Dongba script. This is a pictographic writing format belonging to the Naxi ethnic minority, who migrated to Yunnan some 2,000 years ago.
That was not the end, though. We got to see first-hand an artist painting a pictograph at a shop. Stroke by stroke, he meticulously inked the handmade paper with the symbols, while we observed in complete awe.
Esther spends her time doing handicraft at Baisha Ancient Town.
Esther, a staff member of the Baisha Naxi Embroidery Institute, told us that the script was historically carved into stone or wood, and that the practice of painting it on paper is relatively new.
Tourists can also request for their name to be 'painted' (for a fee, of course), which they can then bring home as a keepsake – a special way to remember your travel memories.
The store front was filled with framed pictographs for sale, too.
The existence of Naxi, Esther shared, was only known after the 1996 earthquake that struck the province, which sparked the rediscovery of Dongba.
'Naxi is among the 16 minority groups in Yunnan, and each group has its own language,' she added.
Unfortunately, the linguistic heritage of Dongba is at risk of disappearing, as it is increasingly being pushed out by modern influence and changing lifestyle.
'Today's generation is no longer actively practising it. They don't speak it, nor is it taught in schools,' said Esther.
The earthquake was a devastating incident but it did have a silver lining – it evoked a sense of urgency to preserve the legacy of Dongba. Today, people have begun picking it up again.
Handicraft, too, plays a big part in the Naxi culture, said Esther. As an effort to encourage people to learn the art of craft making, she said that the government has initiated a project to preserve the art of embroidery.
Dongba script is a form of pictograph that was once used by the Naxi ethnic minority in Yunnan.
Our visit to Lijiang Old Town was equally memorable.
Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1997, the town has a history that goes back 800 years.
In contrast to Baisha, this town was bigger, and appeared to be more commercially oriented, too, with many items catered to tourists.
At the start of our exploration, we saw a throng of visitors gathered at the giant water wheels. These wheels, better known as Kongming Wheels, carry historical as well as cultural significance. They were irrigation tools in China over 1,700 years ago.
Part of our self-guided tour included a tea tasting session (recommended by our guide Li) at a whimsical tea house, built in the early 1900s. Here, we not only sampled the highly-valued Pu'er tea but also gained insights into how it was harvested.
Unlike the leaves of green tea that are harvested from shrubs, Pu'er tea comes from centuries- old trees, ranging from 300 to 1,000 years old. Our tea server, Zhao, mentioned that the oldest tree residing on their plantation is a whopping 3,500 years old!
The resort sits at the foothill of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
A mountainous stay
Besides the exciting excursions, we participated in a fresco art workshop at the resort.
There was more to this painting activity than just artistic enjoyment. Fresco typically means the technique of painting on wet plaster. Once dried, the water-based pigments (made from minerals) create a lasting effect.
Traditionally, this was a method used for creating murals.
Among other cultural activities available within the resort are a pottery workshop and a tea making ceremony – either one is a great way to immerse in the local culture.
If you are into sports, there are badminton, basketball, football, and even pickleball courts for you to work up a sweat.
The resort has 22 'included' activities for guests to choose from (no extra payment), and 11 on-demand excursions and programmes that come with extra fees. There are also different types of activities curated for children of all age range.
Of course, you can also choose to create your own itinerary outside of the resort. Most of the attractions in the area are accessible and tourist-friendly – just get the resort to book your ride for you.
From culture to history and nature, Lijiang has everything that makes for a meaningful and memorable holiday.
Travel notes
Getting there: There is no direct flight to Lijiang from Malaysia; the nearest and most accessible international airport is in Chengdu. From the Chengdu Tianfu International Airport, take a domestic flight to the Lijiang Sanyi International Airport.
Where to stay: Club Med Lijiang is one of the newer properties around, and as an all-inclusive resort, it is incredibly convenient for holidaymakers, especially families, to stay here. There are also local hotels you can check out, like Hexi Hotel, Blossom Hill Inn (Zhimeng) and Anyu Dayan Hotel.
Currency: Yuan/Renminbi is the official currency, with RM1 equivalent to CNY1.70. Malaysia's Touch 'n Go ewallet can be used as well as it is connected to China's Alipay+ network.