Heirloom grains of Asia: how these ancient staples made their way to modern tables

Tatler Asia

27-06-2025

2. Red cargo rice (Thailand)
A long-grain unpolished rice, red cargo rice retains its bran layer, giving it a reddish tint and a nutty, hearty flavour. Traditionally eaten with grilled meats or spicy coconut soups, it was once considered 'poor man's rice' but has seen a wellness-driven renaissance.
Bangkok's organic cafés and macrobiotic eateries now serve red cargo rice as a wholesome base for vegetarian dishes, Buddha bowls, grilled chicken plates and other menu items. Some home chefs in Thailand and abroad have also steadily added red cargo rice into their repertoires. 3. Glutinous purple rice (Laos and Northern Thailand)
Central to Laotian meals for centuries, glutinous purple rice is sticky, slightly sweet and visually striking. Traditionally eaten with grilled meats and jeow (spicy dipping sauces), it's steamed in bamboo baskets and eaten by hand. Its colour comes from anthocyanins, the same antioxidant pigments found in berries. 4. Bario rice (Malaysia)
From the highlands of Sarawak comes Bario rice, a hand-harvested, small-batch grain cultivated by the Kelabit people for over a century. Known for its delicate aroma, fluffy texture and short growing season, Bario rice is a prized ingredient during communal celebrations and longhouse feasts.
Restaurants like Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur highlight Bario rice to champion indigenous Malaysian ingredients. Its rarity and flavour have earned it recognition among Southeast Asian food circles, with online speciality shops now offering it as a premium, artisanal rice. 5. Adlai (Philippines)
Also known as Job's Tears, adlai has been cultivated by Lumad communities in Mindanao for generations as both a staple grain and a symbol of resilience. Its chewy texture and slightly nutty flavour make it an excellent rice substitute. Traditionally used in porridges and stews, it's now making appearances in high-end restaurants.
Filipino chefs like Claude Tayag and the late Margarita Forés and restaurants like Hapag have elevated adlai to gourmet status, using it in everything from risotto and paella to grain salads. Urban restaurants in Metro Manila often market it as a 'luxury local grain', emphasising its low glycemic index and high protein content. Health influencers in Asia and Australia have caught on, touting it as a sustainable alternative to imported carbs.
See more: What to eat: 7 Filipino rice dishes and snacks we're craving right now 6. Forbidden rice (China)
Once reserved exclusively for Chinese emperors, this ancient black rice earned its 'forbidden' moniker due to its historical exclusivity. With a history dating back over a thousand years, it was prized for its supposed longevity-boosting properties. Rich in anthocyanins and iron, its mildly sweet, nutty flavour works in both savoury and dessert dishes. In China, it's often prepared as congee or sweet zhou, while internationally, it stars in black rice pudding, grain bowls and even fine-dining duck pairings. Wellness brands across Asia market it as a supergrain, alongside acai and chia. 7. Black heirloom rice (Philippines)
Cultivated by indigenous communities in the Cordillera mountains for generations, the Philippines' black heirloom rice stands out with its deep purple colour and glutinous texture. Traditionally, it's steamed and served with native chicken or pork during tribal feasts, a symbol of prosperity and communal pride. Its use in Filipino cuisine spans from champorado (chocolate rice porridge) to gourmet takes on suman (rice cakes).
Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery in Manila has spotlighted black rice in his menus, using it to underscore Filipino terroir and storytelling through food. Other restaurants that have integrated it into their menus include Purple Yam and Hapag. Filipino diaspora bakeries abroad now bake black rice sourdough, while some Manila restaurants experiment with black rice risotto and grain bowls.