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Top chefs speak out: restaurant design is just as important as its food
Top chefs speak out: restaurant design is just as important as its food

Tatler Asia

time12 hours ago

  • Entertainment
  • Tatler Asia

Top chefs speak out: restaurant design is just as important as its food

Above Photo by Justin De Jesus for Tatler Dining Above Photo by Justin De Jesus for Tatler Dining In contrast, chef Josh Boutwood's flagship establishment Helm at Ayala Triangle Gardens is an archetype of minimalist modernity, reflecting Boutwood's culinary style that refuses to be constrained by a particular genre or cuisine. 'I wanted a space that was relatively simple and appeared as if a kitchen had simply been dropped into it, leaving the bare concrete walls and flooring,' explains Boutwood, 'yet at the same time creating a connection to Ember, the previous restaurant opening. Ember contains some of my photography work with subjects that are all broken; to create the cohesive connection for Helm, we took inspiration from the Japanese art of kintsugi to create the illusion of repairing something broken and making it more beautiful.' Design firm Headroom created a sleek, minimalist space featuring black, copper and grey tones enhanced by dramatic lighting against the starkness of cement and the openness of the kitchen. See also: Asia's grilling culture is deep, delicious and anything but basic Above Photo: courtesy of Ember Above Photo by Justin De Jesus for Tatler Dining Santos, too, underlines the importance of good lighting and explains the magnetism of open spaces. 'Lighting was considered from day one to ensure the mood enhanced the meal. The open kitchen adds transparency and a sense of welcome – the feeling of being part of something unfolding,' he says. At Hapag, art and music are essential elements of a memorable dining experience. The Hapag team, working closely with their design partners, selected numerous pieces from restaurant partners Ricky and Bubu Andres's Filipino art collection, then narrowed them down to the works proudly displayed around the restaurant. 'We felt elevated Filipino dining must showcase the best of Philippine art,' says Bubu. 'Filipino artists are unique, yet very few can show their craft to the world. We wanted Hapag to be a platform to showcase Filipino talent in every way,' she continues. See also: Gastronome Giving, Globe Platinum's signature dining series, is serving meals for a higher purpose In contrast, Boutwood's minimalist world is all about functional design, where every component, like in his food, serves a purpose. 'The idea from the get-go was to have the kitchen centre stage, and it had to look a particular way so it wasn't in the way but purposeful. So we chose a powder coating that would balance the cement and limit the amount of contrasting colours. Also, the orientation of the kitchen needed to be balanced so we, as cooks, didn't appear out of balance,' he says. While designing one's dream restaurant does take a fair amount of thought and collateral, these chefs and their collaborators attest that it is a necessary expense in putting their best foot forward. 'Design is the first sensory release that showcases a restaurant. It sets the expectation of the kind of food and service to be had,' shares Lozano. 'If interiors are well thought out, considering service flow that positively impacts both guests and service staff, then successful design goes beyond aesthetics and greatly contributes to the dining experience.' See also: Leftovers? How Asia turns scraps into culinary gold Above Photo: courtesy of Helm Boutwood stresses that the design, more than anything else, should be an authentic representation of the cuisine and the people behind it. 'It should be a reflection of personalities – from the chefs and the food they create, to the concept in general. I believe very strongly that the restaurant should feel at ease and homely, which in turn makes guests feel like they have stepped into the mind of the chef and surrendered to the creativity of the space.' Santos adds a piece of advice: 'Design from the inside out. Be honest about who you are, and let your space reflect that without compromise. Authenticity resonates more deeply than trend. Design your space like you would a dish – with care, purpose and a clear sense of self.'

A taste of Singapore: SingaPob returns to Makati this August
A taste of Singapore: SingaPob returns to Makati this August

GMA Network

time2 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • GMA Network

A taste of Singapore: SingaPob returns to Makati this August

Singapore's culinary scene will take over Makati later this month! The SingaPob food and drink festival is returning to Makati on August 28 to 31 to bring award-winning bars and restaurants from the Little Red Dot straight into Makati's Poblacion district. Following its successful run in 2023, this year's SingaPob edition promises a bigger mix. Think hawker classics, modern dining and even Asia's best cocktail bars in Makati's hip bloc for four days straight. Here's a rundown of the exciting lineup: Candlenut at Hapag Michelin-starred chef Malcolm Lee of Candlenut and Pangium teams up with Hapag's Thirdy Dolatre and John Kevin Navoa for a tasting menu that marries Singaporean and Filipino flavors. Keng Eng Kee at Super Uncle Claypot From humble hawker stall to Michelin Guide favorite, Keng Eng Kee is a Singapore institution known for Zi Char dishes. Manila diners can catch them at Super Uncle Claypot. Jigger & Pony at OTO Ranked #3 in Asia's 50 Best Bars 2025 and #5 in the world in 2024, Jigger & Pony is celebrated for reimagining classic cocktails. Catch them at OTO. Fura at Aya Since opening in late 2023, Fura has quickly made a name for itself as one of Singapore's boldest new bars. It won the Ketel One Sustainable Bar Award in 2024 and debuted at #95 on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2025. Catch them at Aya. Night Hawk at a secret location Inspired by Edward Hopper's Nighthawks, this speakeasy ranked #77 in Asia's Best Bars 2025. Their Manila pop-up will be at a secret location, so keep your eyes peeled. Mama Diam at Polilya A nostalgic speakeasy disguised as a provision store from 1980s Singapore, Mama Diam is bringing its retro charm to Polilya. Offtrack at Run Rabbit Run Offtrack will serve its signature blend of food, cocktails, art, and music at Run Rabbit Run. They're currently #23 in Asia's 50 Best Bars 2025. Origin Bar at The Spirits Library Housed in Singapore's Shangri-La Hotel, Origin Bar takes inspiration from the city's districts in both design and drinks. For SingaPob, they'll be hosted by The Spirits Library. Onlypans Taqueria This Poblacion favorite is putting a Singapore twist on its tacos for the festival, serving up playful cross-cultural bites. Those who wish to attend the festival should feel free to do so, as no tickets are needed. Just head on to the participating bars and restaurants in Poblacion. Check out the SingaPob website for more deets. — Hermes Joy Tunac/LA, GMA Integrated News

Heirloom grains of Asia: how these ancient staples made their way to modern tables
Heirloom grains of Asia: how these ancient staples made their way to modern tables

Tatler Asia

time27-06-2025

  • Tatler Asia

Heirloom grains of Asia: how these ancient staples made their way to modern tables

2. Red cargo rice (Thailand) A long-grain unpolished rice, red cargo rice retains its bran layer, giving it a reddish tint and a nutty, hearty flavour. Traditionally eaten with grilled meats or spicy coconut soups, it was once considered 'poor man's rice' but has seen a wellness-driven renaissance. Bangkok's organic cafés and macrobiotic eateries now serve red cargo rice as a wholesome base for vegetarian dishes, Buddha bowls, grilled chicken plates and other menu items. Some home chefs in Thailand and abroad have also steadily added red cargo rice into their repertoires. 3. Glutinous purple rice (Laos and Northern Thailand) Central to Laotian meals for centuries, glutinous purple rice is sticky, slightly sweet and visually striking. Traditionally eaten with grilled meats and jeow (spicy dipping sauces), it's steamed in bamboo baskets and eaten by hand. Its colour comes from anthocyanins, the same antioxidant pigments found in berries. 4. Bario rice (Malaysia) From the highlands of Sarawak comes Bario rice, a hand-harvested, small-batch grain cultivated by the Kelabit people for over a century. Known for its delicate aroma, fluffy texture and short growing season, Bario rice is a prized ingredient during communal celebrations and longhouse feasts. Restaurants like Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur highlight Bario rice to champion indigenous Malaysian ingredients. Its rarity and flavour have earned it recognition among Southeast Asian food circles, with online speciality shops now offering it as a premium, artisanal rice. 5. Adlai (Philippines) Also known as Job's Tears, adlai has been cultivated by Lumad communities in Mindanao for generations as both a staple grain and a symbol of resilience. Its chewy texture and slightly nutty flavour make it an excellent rice substitute. Traditionally used in porridges and stews, it's now making appearances in high-end restaurants. Filipino chefs like Claude Tayag and the late Margarita Forés and restaurants like Hapag have elevated adlai to gourmet status, using it in everything from risotto and paella to grain salads. Urban restaurants in Metro Manila often market it as a 'luxury local grain', emphasising its low glycemic index and high protein content. Health influencers in Asia and Australia have caught on, touting it as a sustainable alternative to imported carbs. See more: What to eat: 7 Filipino rice dishes and snacks we're craving right now 6. Forbidden rice (China) Once reserved exclusively for Chinese emperors, this ancient black rice earned its 'forbidden' moniker due to its historical exclusivity. With a history dating back over a thousand years, it was prized for its supposed longevity-boosting properties. Rich in anthocyanins and iron, its mildly sweet, nutty flavour works in both savoury and dessert dishes. In China, it's often prepared as congee or sweet zhou, while internationally, it stars in black rice pudding, grain bowls and even fine-dining duck pairings. Wellness brands across Asia market it as a supergrain, alongside acai and chia. 7. Black heirloom rice (Philippines) Cultivated by indigenous communities in the Cordillera mountains for generations, the Philippines' black heirloom rice stands out with its deep purple colour and glutinous texture. Traditionally, it's steamed and served with native chicken or pork during tribal feasts, a symbol of prosperity and communal pride. Its use in Filipino cuisine spans from champorado (chocolate rice porridge) to gourmet takes on suman (rice cakes). Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery in Manila has spotlighted black rice in his menus, using it to underscore Filipino terroir and storytelling through food. Other restaurants that have integrated it into their menus include Purple Yam and Hapag. Filipino diaspora bakeries abroad now bake black rice sourdough, while some Manila restaurants experiment with black rice risotto and grain bowls.

Beyond adobo and sinigang: Hapag's Western Mindanao menu uncovers a richer Filipino story
Beyond adobo and sinigang: Hapag's Western Mindanao menu uncovers a richer Filipino story

Tatler Asia

time14-06-2025

  • Business
  • Tatler Asia

Beyond adobo and sinigang: Hapag's Western Mindanao menu uncovers a richer Filipino story

Photo 1 of 6 Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Basilan (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 2 of 6 Agal-agal Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Tawi-Tawi (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 3 of 6 Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Basilan (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 4 of 6 Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Basilan (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 5 of 6 Satti - Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Zamboanga (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 6 of 6 Knickerbocker - Photos from Hapag's R&D trip to Zamboanga (Photo: Miguel Nacianceno; courtesy of Hapag) 'The markets were deeply localised,' says Dolatre. 'In Lamitan, Basilan, most goods came directly from the area or nearby Malaysia—no big brands or outside products, aside from maybe candy from Zamboanga. Tawi-Tawi's markets were especially eye-opening during Ramadan. There were stalls selling unexpected dishes like mi goreng with hot dogs and murtabak with Milo. Very Malaysian-inspired. It felt like a different world.' The team approached their challenge with deep respect, understanding that every recipe carries the weight of tradition, that every flavour tells a story about place and people. They recognised that authentic representation meant understanding not just what people eat, but why they eat it and what it means to their identity. This commitment becomes evident in every carefully orchestrated course, each dish functioning as both culinary achievement and respectful cultural translation. Read more: Sustainability and flavour: The rise of fermentation in Asia's top restaurants A menu rooted in memory and discovery Above Tiyula itum, a blackened broth of beef bones, aromatics, and burnt coconut (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) Above Satti: beef tongue, beef rump, chicken isol, and chicken skin (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) The menu began with tiyula itum—a somewhat daunting way to begin the meal, as if staring into a dark abyss. But one sip of the soothing, flavourful elixir washed all worries away. Made with beef bones, burnt coconut and aromatics, the smoky, blackened broth provided a warm welcome to Hapag and set the tone for the meal ahead. Accompanying the dish was a colourful platter of the aromatics infused into the broth: ginger, lemongrass, lasona (native shallots) and most interestingly, galangal and turmeric—ingredients more commonly found in Malaysian and Indonesian cuisines. During their time in Zamboanga, the Hapag team learned that satti skewers—closely related to the satay of Indonesia—are most commonly enjoyed as breakfast fare, with shops opening as early as 4 am. Hapag's take on satti was a simple preparation of grilled beef tongue, beef rump, chicken isol (tail) and chicken skin, highlighting the nuances of flavour and texture between each cut of meat, paired with a thick sauce of reduced chicken broth and spices. Related: 11 underrated Asian dishes (and why you should absolutely be eating them) Above Hapag's take on agal agal salad (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) Above A delicious bowl of mee goreng (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) The third course introduced us to a type of seaweed abundant in Basilan and Tawi-Tawi: agal-agal. Commonly served as a salad with soy sauce, calamansi and bubuk (toasted spiced coconut), the crisp, slightly salty seaweed was a favourite among the chefs during their trip. At Hapag, they utilise their housemade two-year-old shoyu and adorn the salad with juicy Aiko tomatoes, sour green mangoes and sharp red onion, plus generous slices of yellowfin tuna kinilaw. Although mee goreng naturally invokes images of Malaysia and Indonesia, the Hapag team soon learned that this tasty noodle dish is also a highly favoured delicacy in Western Mindanao, specifically along Zamboanga's seaside markets. Hapag's mee goreng was a highlight of the menu: firm noodles with a toothsome chew coated in a delectable sauce—umami-rich, slightly sweet and almost caramelised—using Hapag's own kecap manis. Wok-fried oyster mushrooms and a glistening quail egg yolk emphasised its umami and richness, while fried egg whites and dahon ng sili lent textural interest. See also: What makes Iloilo City a food haven? New book by Ige Ramos celebrates Ilonggo gastronomy Above The siyagul and roti martabak, finished at the table with shavings of cheese (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) Above Leche flan palate cleanser (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) While wandering the markets of Basilan and Tawi-Tawi, the Hapag team encountered two local delicacies that piqued their interest: siyagul, a seafood stew (traditionally made with stingray, which is illegal to catch or consume in the Philippines) simmered in burnt coconut; and roti martabak or a savoury roti often stuffed with meat. In a brilliant lightbulb moment, the chefs asked, 'What if we put them together?' This unexpected pairing later inspired their fifth course: meaty swordfish cooked in burnt coconut and aromatics, delicately laid upon a flaky roti martabak stuffed with an herbaceous pesto and seared to achieve a crisp, golden exterior, and finished with caviar and a local cheese similar in flavour to a mild parmesan. Have you ever had leche flan as a palate cleanser? In many parts of Western Mindanao, this silky, decadent custard is not enjoyed as a dessert, but rather as a sweet and creamy relief from the rich and spicy flavours that define their cuisine. Hapag pays homage to this custom by serving the flan atop a bed of refreshing calamansi and lemongrass granita, plus pickled scoby, its texture and tang reminiscent of nata de coco. Read more: Where to order the best burgers in Metro Manila Photo 1 of 2 The festive salu-salo, always a highlight when dining at Hapag (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) Photo 2 of 2 The festive salu-salo, always a highlight when dining at Hapag (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) The salu-salo course is a mainstay of Hapag's tasting menus, faithful to the Filipinos' love for family-style meals. There's a palpable excitement that fills the room as Hapag's service team brings out each dish, setting the table with a festive spread, moving in unison like a choreographed dance. This season's salu-salo is a quartet of regional specialities, including the camaron alavar: meaty prawns dipped in a light tempura batter and coated in pinipig, then fried to a crisp, served with alavar (curry) sauce. In the white bowl, beneath a bed of fried leeks and curry leaves lay the riyandang—the Maranao counterpart to the world-famous rendang, made with tender beef short ribs slow-cooked for eight hours in a spiced coconut milk. To cut through the riyandang's richness and spice, the chefs complemented the salu-salo with a bright and punchy pomelo salad with calamansi, ginger and pickled jalapeno, plus cashew for added texture. Of course, no salu-salo is complete without rice. This time around, they look to Basilan for inspiration, serving their interpretation of junay: a rice cake cooked in burnt coconut, turmeric and chicken stock, wrapped in banana leaves and finished at the table with calamansi, crispy shallots and puffed black rice. Read more: A feast for the senses: 9 immersive food museums around the world Above Hapag's playful knickerbocker (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) Above Petit fours inspired by Tausug kakanin (Photo: Dre Ferrer; courtesy of Hapag) For dessert, the chefs take us back to Zamboanga with their light and balanced take on the knickerbocker—a treat playful in both name and form, made here with melon, watermelon, pineapple jelly, pickled longgan, lacto-fermented langka jam, amazake pili nut milk foam and strawberry ice cream. Finally, the petit fours reimagine bang-bang sug, a platter of Tausug kakanin, as chocolate bonbons. There's the explosive putli mandi (palitaw) covered in coconut, the palikambing (banana fritter) with a luxurious smoked banana caramel, the wadjit (coconut sticky rice cake) with biko and latik and the Bbyaki (corn tamales) with corn mousse and juicy corn kernels. Since bang-bang sug is typically enjoyed in coffee houses, they've paired the petit fours with a refined pourover coffee using beans from Miarayon, Bukidnon, sourced from Good Cup Coffee. Their intention to represent Western Mindanao with respect and responsibility extends beyond the dishes in their tasting menu, colouring their beverage programme, too. With respect for Western Mindanao's Muslim heritage, Ganuelas-Recto took the opportunity to curate a non-alcoholic pairing—a first for Hapag. Both their wine and zero-ABV pairings echo the complexity and depth of the tasting menu, leaning on full Champagne rosés, sweeter rieslings and structured expressions of syrah and Left Bank Bordeaux for the wines, while the non-alcoholic pairings build intrigue with fermented probiotic sodas and nuanced alcohol-free wines. 'Western Mindanao's flavours are unapologetically bold, so our pairings had to meet that energy,' explains Ganuelas-Recto. "We leaned into spice, smoke and richness, both in the wines and the fermented beverages, to create harmony with the menu.' Related: It's Gemini season: Five chaotic wine pairings that actually work, according to sommeliers Beyond the table As the second chapter in Hapag's regional tasting menu series, the Western Mindanao menu feels personal, purposeful and necessary. It reframes Filipino cuisine as fundamentally regional—and celebrates the diversity too often overlooked. 'This isn't just about showcasing dishes,' added Dolatre. 'It's about recognising how much of the Philippines we've yet to explore and giving that food the care and respect it deserves.' NOW READ What we lose when we forget our food: this cookbook reminds us where Filipino food came from Where to order the best pancakes & waffles in the Philippines Best work-friendly cafés in Legazpi Village & Salcedo Village

Hapag-Lloyd boosted by US-China trade truce, CEO says
Hapag-Lloyd boosted by US-China trade truce, CEO says

Business Recorder

time14-05-2025

  • Business
  • Business Recorder

Hapag-Lloyd boosted by US-China trade truce, CEO says

FRANKFURT: Hapag-Lloyd has seen an increase in demand for freight traffic this week between the United States and China, following a cooling in the countries' trade tensions. The U.S. and China on Monday agreed to slash steep tariffs for at least 90 days, suspending a trade war between the world's two biggest economies that prompted fears of a global recession. When asked on Wednesday about Washington and Beijing's tariff truce, CEO Rolf Habben Jansen told Reuters: 'I expect that there will be additional volume between China and the U.S. That is what we have already seen in the last few days.' 'It remains to be seen how long this will take and whether demand will become even stronger,' he added. The German container shipping company's bookings were up 50% for U.S.-China traffic week on week in the first few days of the week, the CEO said. Hapag-Lloyd's shares were up 7.31% at 1341 GMT. The company earlier on Wednesday reported a 27% jump in first-quarter earnings before interest and tax, or EBIT, to 463 million euros ($519.44 million), partly because many Chinese manufacturers brought forward consignments to the United States to preempt anticipated trade barriers. Habben Jansen said the company was deploying ships of different sizes to adjust to volatile demand. 'Our problem is, of course, that ships unfortunately are not elastic,' he said. Under the temporary truce, the U.S. will cut extra tariffs it imposed on Chinese imports last month from 145% to 30% for the next three months, the two sides said, while Chinese duties on U.S. imports will fall to 10% from 125%. Hapag confirmed its guidance for full-year EBIT between breakeven and 1.5 billion euros, 'subject to a very high degree of uncertainty'.

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