
Europe's ‘nowhere place' is a quiet Italian gem with flights from £17
Aperitifs at sundown, quaint streets, and Italian sunshine. No, we're not talking about Florence or Tuscany.
Hop across the Adriatic from Venice and you'll find Trieste, a unique border town that you've probably never heard of — but one you're going to want to add to your city break list.
While Trieste was once forgotten, hidden away in northern Italy and even described as a 'nowhere place', times have changed.
Almost entirely surrounded by Slovenia, Trieste is a melting pot of cultures. The local dialect, according to Lonely Planet is a 'strange melange of Italian, Austrian-German, Croatian and Greek.'
Ever since Slovenia's star began to rise, tourism in Trieste has also picked up. There's a thriving food and arts scene, and trendy hotel chain, 25hours, is set to open in the city this year.
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As our favourite review on TripAdvisor says, it's a 'beautiful place both during the day and at night, but it never feels crowded or overrun'.
Recently, the FT heaped praise on the city, describing it as 'the comeback kid'.
So, if you want to get ahead of the curve, here's everything you need to know about Italy's next big holiday spot.
Trieste is influenced by its culturally rich neighbours (Picture: Metro)
How to get to Trieste
Easily accessible from the UK, Trieste has an airport about 40 minutes outside the city centre.
Direct flights run from London Stansted, with one-way Ryanair fares starting from £17 in July (that's based on taking the 7:35am flight on Tuesday, July 8). Best of all, the journey time is two hours.
The only downside is that at the moment, direct routes are only operated out of Stansted. You can also fly from Gatwick, but that generally involves stopping in Rome or Krakow.
What's the weather like in Trieste?
As you'd expect from an Italian city, Trieste has a Mediterranean climate, with warm summers and colder winters.
The best time to visit is during the summer, from June to September. The mercury reaches highs of 30°C in July.
Trieste deserves some attention (Picture: Getty Images/Westend61)
It's worth keeping in mind that the area often feels the effects of the Bora, a wind that blows from the mountains into the Gulf of Trieste, which on occasion, can get pretty gusty.
It's said that locals like the wind because of the intense emotion it sparks; when it's a calm day, they long for it to return. Italians, eh.
Where to stay in Trieste
Travelling in the shoulder season, in May or October, is a good idea if you want to nab a bargain hotel stay and run into fewer tourists.
Booking.com prices for a 3* hotel, rated 'very good' or above, from £73 per night in September.
Things to do in Trieste
Any trip to Trieste should start with a wander through the historic centre, which has interesting shops and quaint cafes.
This area is also home to the city's top cultural attractions, including the cathedral and the waterfront Piazza Unità d'Italia, which is said to be modelled on Venice's St Mark's.
In a way, it might be even more beautiful, and is the largest square overlooking the sea in Europe.
Stazione Rogers is an abandoned petrol station that swapped unleaded for aperitifs, and is now a thriving cultural centre. As well as being the perfect place for sundowners overlooking the water (with DJs and live music until 2am) there's also a space for art exhibitions and gigs.
The Piazza Unità d'Italia at dusk (Picture: Getty Images)
Trieste is proud of its literary heritage; he legendary Irish author James Joyce lived here while writing Ulysses, and you'll spot the plaques signaling his various homes (he was often evicted for refusing to pay rent) across the city.
There's a Joyce museum, and the Literature Trieste Museum is also set to open this year. Or, head to a book shop and while away a few hours reading with a coffee. San Marco is a popular spot.
For views that stretch across the sea, visit the Faro della Vittoria, a lighthouse which is open to the public (for free).
Every October, the Barcolana regatta sees the waters fill up with sailing boats. Tourists should also take a trip to the must-visit fairytale castle, Miramare Castle, which sits atop a rocky cliff.
From panoramic views to subterranean marvels, the Grotta Gigante is a vast underground cave about 20 minutes outside of Trieste. One of the chambers, the Grande Caverna, is 98.5m high, and 76.3 m wide. Visitors can take tours all year round.
If you have enough time, you can also take a day trip over to Slovenia, and visit Lake Bled, which is less than an hour's drive away.
Food and drink in Trieste
Don't book a flight to Trieste expecting only to eat pizza and pasta. We know, this is Italy (and of course, you can order it here) but the influences of its surrounding nations have had a big impact on how the Trestines eat.
Buffets are a big thing here, a tradition which harks back to when the city was under Austrian rule. Think cured meats, smoked sausages and cheese. It's said you haven't really been to Trieste unless you've indulged at a buffet.
Jota is also a popular local dish, essentially a Slovenian soup made with sauerkraut, potatoes, and beans – often with added pancetta.
Seafood is also a favourite. You're likely to spot sardine dishes on the menu, but it's always worth asking about the catch of the day.
And of course, you can wash your meal down with a grappa – the notorious liqueur which hails from the north of Italy. If alcohol isn't your thing, Trieste is Italy's biggest consumer of coffee (and gets the crown of Italy's 'capital of coffee') with the famous brand, Illy, hailing from the city.
But, make sure you know what you're ordering. In Trieste, an espresso is a 'nero' and a cappuccino is a 'cafelatte'. And make sure you ask for it in a glass – locals say it tastes better that way.
How expensive is Trieste?
According to Budget My Trip, you can expect to spend about £88 per day in Trieste, covering food, drink and activities.
Trattoria alla Sorgente, a seafood restaurant popular with locals, lists its price range as around £22 – £44 per person.
For the all important buffet, Buffet Da Pepi has been serving hungry customers since 1897. For one person, a mixed charcuterie platter is just €8 (£6.85).
Attractions are affordable too. Many are free, and entry to the Miramare Castle, for example, is €12 (£10.30).
This article was first published on 22 April 2024 and has been updated.
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