Road-tripping through central Hokkaido? Don't miss these bakeries
With summer well underway, Kamikawa is turning into a popular region for road trips among locals and tourists alike. If you are planning a long drive (or ride), scheduling some breaks along the way is de rigueur. As Hokkaido is known as the 'bread basket of Japan' — the prefecture is an agricultural powerhouse of rice, wheat and dairy production — I chose some bakeries you should stop by to fill your picnic baskets and fuel your travels.
Boulangerie Aman
Opened in 2021 and occupying a converted shipping container, Boulangerie Aman specializes in country-style bread, much of which incorporates locally grown soba flour. Its onion loaf is rich and sweet, perfect for topping with cottage cheese. The Rustic Sudachi loaf, flavored with the Japanese citrus, is simply delicious when toasted and topped with butter. The shop's cylindrical croissants are also made with fermented butter for an extra creamy flavor.
Aman often holds pop-ups and events on weekends, so do check its social media for the latest updates. The last time I was there in June, husband-and-wife owners Kotaro and Eiko Ogura were doing an event with the Asahikawa Hanasaki branch of Muji.
The bakery is located in the Etanbetsu area, which is covered in fields of white in late summer when the buckwheat flowers are in full bloom.
Chuo 121-2, Etanbetsucho, Hokkaido 071-1173; 0166-85-7995; instagram.com/boulangerie_aman ; 10 a.m.- 3 p.m.; closed Mon. and Tues.
Boulangerie Mawarimichi
Meaning 'detour,' Mawarimachi is worth its namesake, especially if croissants are your thing. Set a block in front of JR Toma Station, this tiny bakery makes the region's best croissants — their lamination is impeccably light, crisp and buttery — and pain au chocolat. The shop has been a regular stop for me, especially when I'm driving to Daisetsuzan National Park's Sounkyo Gorge, which is spectacular in all seasons but famed for its autumn foliage.
Boulangerie Mawarimichi is where you'll find lamingtons, an Australian specialty of sponge cake squares coated in thin chocolate icing and desiccated coconut. |
SIMON DALY
Mawarimachi's multigrain cereal loaf is sliced at just the right thickness for sandwiches. The shop also sells lamingtons, an Australian specialty of sponge cake squares dipped in thin chocolate icing and covered in desiccated coconut. In December, its stollen is delicious, dense and filled with all the flavors of Christmas.
Recently, the owners have also found an interest in natural wine and have stocked some in their store — the Wait Wait Wait 2022, a sparkling wine from France's Du Vin aux Liens, is perfect for summer.
3 Chome-4-10 4 Jominami, Toma, Kamikawa, Hokkaido 078-1324; 0166-56-037; instagram.com/megu_mawarimichi ; open from 8 a.m.; closed Mon. and Tues.
Hitosaji Bakery
Hitosaji Bakery is the retail outlet of Hitosaji Farm, the largest local grower of a wheat hybrid named Kita no Kaori (Fragrance of the North), which was made by crossing native horoshiri wheat with Hungarian bread wheat to produce a high-protein, aromatic flour. In May 2025, the bakery reopened after moving from atop the nearby hill to be closer to the farm.
Hitosaji Bakery specializes in high-hydration doughs, which are great for sandwiches. |
SIMON DALY
Led by head baker Eiji Oda, the bakery specializes in high-hydration doughs and dense fruit and nut loaves, which are some of my favorites for a simple breakfast. Hitosaji also makes delicious ready-to-eat sandwiches, such as bacon baguettes or Camembert and local asparagus rolls.
Hitosaji is also just a 20-minute drive away from Biei's popular tourist attraction, the stunningly azure Aoike Pond.
Murayama 1087-16, Omura, Biei, Hokkaido 071-0218; 0166-74-8307; instagram.com/hitosaji_pan ; 10 a.m-3 p.m.; closed Tues.,Wed., and Thurs.
Panya Yamanaka
Panya Yamanaka is run by the Yamanaka family, who have been in the business for 10 years. Many of the breads use exclusively Hokkaido ingredients, such as the potato rolls made with local tubers — they offer a rich, nutty wholemeal aroma and are great eaten on their own or filled with your favorite local cheeses. I like to top the rolls with my homemade chicken liver parfait .
Panya Yamanaka's almond pastries and potato rolls are popular among visitors. |
SIMON DALY
The popular lavender fields of Nakafurano's Farm Tomita is also just a five-minute drive away, making Panya Yamanaka a perfect place to stop by while you are in the area.
Kisen Kita 20, Nakafurano, Sorachi District, Hokkaido 0710-0704; 0167-44-3371; facebook.com/panyamanaka ; 9 a.m-5 p.m.; closed Sun., Mon. (for summer)
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