Small island, big story: Malta's ancient temples, WWII forts and living history

Times

10-07-2025

The country wears its past proudly, but it is the everyday culture, food and warmth that truly shine Capital ideas: Valletta is compact but brimful of heritage spots, diverse dining and buzzing nightlife
There are places you pass through and places that stay with you – Malta is firmly in the latter camp.
This sun-bleached crossroads, sitting proudly in the middle of the Mediterranean, offers more than history. Here, the past is not a museum piece – it's a living, breathing companion.
Militarily speaking, Malta has never been quiet. A speck in the sea, yes, but a stubborn, significant one. It's been coveted, besieged, blockaded and bombed since long before gunpowder. Victory Day here is celebrated on September 8, marking the end of multiple historic sieges.
On this island with layers of resistance baked into its stone, it is the Second World War that left the deepest impression. A former British colony, Malta endured more than 3,000 air raids in two years – a brutal battering that earned the entire population the George Cross. Ancient history: the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is an incredible underground burial complex
This isn't abstract history, it's tactile. You can see it in the blackened forts of Valletta, smell it in the diesel musk of old bunkers and feel it in the texture of buildings that somehow withstood all the attacks.
To explore these significant times, begin with the Lascaris War Rooms, a honeycomb of underground planning spaces where Allied forces coordinated the 1943 invasion of Sicily.
Move to Fort St Elmo, which resisted the Ottomans in 1565 and Luftwaffe bombers in 1942. Today, it houses the National War Museum, home to the George Cross, a wall of medals and other military artefacts.
But Malta isn't just a fortress. Beneath the British bunkers lie the baroque palaces of the Knights of St John. And beneath those are the bones of civilisations that existed before the pyramids were even blueprints. You feel it everywhere – it's magical. Fighting talk: battles old and modern are remembered at the National War Museum in Fort St Elmo
Malta's prehistoric Unesco-listed sites – Ġgantija, Haġar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien – are as alien as they are beautiful. Shaped in spirals and built with stones weighing up to 20 tonnes, they predate Stonehenge and remain mysterious, sacred-feeling places.
The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is the most eerie: a subterranean burial chamber, discovered by accident, with acoustics so perfect a whisper carries like a prayer. Booking in advance is highly recommended.
In Valletta, the Grandmaster's Palace, St John's Co-Cathedral, Casa Rocca Piccola and the Saluting Battery all stand as gateways to the past. Then suddenly you're in a wine bar with a jazz trio or eating grilled octopus under fairy lights, and the whole island shifts tone. Follow the leaders: the state rooms and armoury at the Grandmaster's Palace are open to the public
With more than 300 days of sunshine a year, the country is a true year-round destination. Even spring and autumn feel like they've been kept secret – the crowds thinner, the light softer, the sea still warm enough for a morning swim. Winter is for coastal walks and long terrace lunches. And when the sun drops, the cities glow like firelit sandstone.
For the restless, Malta offers movement without hassle. You can cross the main island by car in under an hour and never grow tired of the journey.
Divers will find world-class wrecks, including wartime destroyers and downed bombers. There are more than 120 dive sites across Malta and its smaller sister islands of Gozo and Comino, with exceptional visibility and terrain ranging from natural coral-covered reefs to haunting artificial ones. Whether you're certified or just curious, local dive centres cater to all levels. Hidden depths: Malta offers exceptional diving with caves, reefs and wrecks accessible by shore or boat
Above water, Gozo's rolling trails and the Dingli Cliffs offer hikers cinematic views and real solitude. Meanwhile, history buffs could explore Malta for a month and not run out of forts, catacombs, churches and palaces. If all you want is to sit still and admire – try a harbour cruise at sunset, glass in hand .
Practicalities are easy too. Malta is three hours from the UK, English is widely spoken and they drive on the left. Accommodation spans boutique hotels, converted palazzos, farmhouse rentals and family resorts.
Food is a highlight, with Arabic, Italian and British influences blending into dishes like rabbit stew, lampuki pie and sea bass spiked with citrus and capers. Pastizzi – flaky, ricotta-filled pastries – are an addiction waiting to happen. A fine feast: discover Malta's many gastronomic delights
The country is also one of Europe's most LGBTQ+ friendly destinations, scoring top marks for safety and inclusivity. It doesn't just tolerate difference, it thrives on it.
So come for the military history, stay for the temples, the terraces, the sea, the wine and the light. Malta has seen a lot, but it's still here – sun-warmed, generous and ready to write its next chapter.
To delve deeper, check out the History Undone podcast on YouTube. Hosted by James Hanson, experts imagine how pivotal moments could have played out differently. Two episodes on Malta ask: 'What if the Ottoman Empire had conquered Malta in 1565?' and 'What if the Allies had failed to defend Malta in WWII?'