Why You Should Be Stocking Up On The Alpine Wines Of Alto Adige

Forbes

03-07-2025

Vineyards in the Merano area of Alto Adige. TIBERIO SORVILLO
Alto Adige, or Südtirol as most locals prefer, is Italy's northernmost wine region. It's a place where vineyards cling to high mountain slopes, pressed between the soaring Alps and the jagged limestone faces of the Dolomites. Covering just over 5,800 hectares of vines, it is one of the country's most compact, yet geographically fragmented, wine territories. The vineyards follow the Adige river for nearly 100 kilometres, but dramatic altitude shifts, changing exposures, and varied soils demand precise viticulture.
The topography undoubtedly influences the wines here, but Alto Adige is defined by a constant duality. Alpine and Mediterranean climates, Germanic and Italian identities, whites and reds of equal standing, this is a viticultural landscape built on contrast, and is all the richer for it. For those willing to navigate its intricacies, the reward is wines of startling quality, purity, and distinction. Lovers of crisp, mineral-driven whites will find much to enjoy, from Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Bianco, while Gewürztraminer is as good here as anywhere. Reds from lesser known varieties will find plenty of charm in Schiava and Lagrein.
Alto Adige's wines can be complicated wines for English speakers to get their head around however. The region is fiercely protective of its identity; primarily German-speaking, but administratively Italian, Alto Adige-Südtirol has its own distinct culture. The dual-language nature of wine labelling can confuse casual browsers and sow uncertainty. German often leads, and you're far more likely to see "Sankt Magdalena" on the bottle than 'Santa Maddalena' for example. Is that a grape variety? you ask. No, it's a subzone, famous for growing Vernatsch, or, as Italian speakers would say, Schiava. New vocabulary overload yet? You'd be forgiven.
Wineries can legally choose to label their wines as either Alto Adige or Südtirol - or reference both - but it remains a voluntary expression of identity, not a legal obligation. Fortunately, bi-lingual labelling is widespread, and as president of the Consorzio Eduard Bernhard says, that reflects both cultural pride and the practicalities of trying to reach a broader market. 'We're very much products of our history. This region used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. We're not really Italian, but we're also not German. We're who we are, proud of our mountain culture.'
Further complexity emerges as one peers into Alto Adige's geographic designations. Beyond the broad Alto Adige DOC, a patchwork of official sub-zones is in place to offer clues in terroir differences. There are six in total: Val Venosta, Meranese, Terlano, Santa Maddalena, Colli di Bolzano, and Valle Isarco. These distinctions matter.
The steep slopes of the Valle Isarco TIBERIO SORVILLO
Take Valle Isarco, a cool, granite-soiled valley near the Austrian border, producing racy, high-acid whites like Kerner and Sylvaner. Terlano is famed for its ripe Chardonnay, and near Bolzano, Lagrein thrives in the valley floor's heat-retaining soils, giving spicy, structured reds. Santa Maddalena is synonymous with Schiava (or should we say Sanct Magdalena and Vernatsch?), and it also grows well in Merano. Such names can blur together at first, and deciphering them all is part of the Alto Adige wine puzzle.
Perhaps these distinctions don't matter enough however. The DOC is set to introduce 86 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGAs), adding to these sub zones with a model similar to Barolo's MGAs or Burgundy's official climats. The goal? Greater transparency around origin and terroir.
In theory, this could help spotlight Alto Adige's remarkable vineyard diversity - granite slopes, volcanic porphyry, glacial moraines - all compressed into just under 6,000 hectares of fragmented vineyards, layered across extreme altitudes. In practice though, is there a risk of adding yet more confusion to an already intricate region, especially for international markets that might still be learning to distinguish Südtirol from Alto Adige?
Of course for the moment, adding 86 names to the appellation's lexicon is a colossal amount of additional information to thrust at the consumer, but, like many attempts to infuse territory with prestige, it is a long term project. Bernhart, reflects that not all of them will become famous. 'We have created a framework to showcase our terroir, but of course, only a handful of these will really enter the wine lover's consciousness.'
Marc Pfitscher of Cantina Girlan is supportive. 'When observing the century-old Vernatsch vineyards in the UGA 'Gschleier', one cannot help but be captivated by their historical and viticultural significance.' He believes that these characteristics are reflected in tasting. 'This for me is the very definition of authenticity and for this reason, we are firmly committed to the preservation of these vineyards and actively promote them.'
Another stand out site is likely to be Gries. Across a body of just over 270 hectares, located on the edge of Bolzano, you will find the largest and most important concentration of Lagrein vines. For those passing visiting, the key landmark is the historic abbey of Muri-Gries which is now a fully operational winery. The wine to track down is a Lagrein Riserva named after the plot it grows on - Vigna Klosteranger - a beautiful expression of the variety. Manfred Bernard who has recently taken over the winemaking there says, 'for people in Bolzano the UGA is recognition, not complication. We all know Lagrein grows well here. This recognition will help people from around the world know about Lagrein too.'
A bottle of Lagrein, showing Südtirol on the label. Muri-Gries
Christian Pisetta, export manager at Alois Lageder, one of the top producers in the region also defends the complexity. 'Through the UGA system, we now have a more precise tool to currently delineate and communicate these differences, allowing for a clearer expression of place in the glass.' Inevitably, consumers will latch onto the sites that deserve the attention most and over time, as producers embrace the vehicle for single site wines, consumers will gain familiarity with them. The system should enrich the conversation around the territory and ultimately deepen Alto Adige's labyrinthine identity.
Pisetta reflects further on the long term aspiration. 'Is this really what we need? I think so. We recognise that this landscape is not static. With ongoing climate change and global warming, what is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.' The strength of Alto Adige lies in its multitude of elevations, soil types and microclimates, which gives the region flexibility, but will almost certainly demand adaptability. 'The identification of the best sites for specific grape varieties must remain dynamic' he says. 'What is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.'
A reminder of the extremes of mountain viticulture in Alto Adige. Alto Adige DOC / Christian Gufler
On the flip side, we have a more detailed map to understand Alto Adige's diversity. It is arguably Italy's most varietally broad wine region, today cultivating over 20 grapes with genuine success. This versatility reflects the region's extraordinary range of altitudes, from valley floors at 200 metres, to mountain vineyards cresting 1,000 metres. This mosaic of microclimates encourages growers to match varieties with a suitable terroir, especially when we consider that of the nearly 5000 growers, the average landholding is just one hectare.
In the last couple of decades, the region has proven that international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir flourish here, particularly at higher elevations where cool nights preserve acidity and aromatics. The results have been undoubtedly impressive. Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, found an ideal home.
Wines like Terlano's 'Winkl' reveal piercing minerality, citrus precision, and longevity that places them among Italy's finest expressions of the grape. Chardonnay, notably from cooler pockets near Eppan and Terlano, ranks quietly among Italy's best. These wines balance ripeness with taut minerality, drawing quiet comparisons to Burgundy, yet framed by alpine clarity.
Terlano vineyards, high up in the hills, showing the mix of elevation and micro climate. Cantina Terlano
Although Chardonnay has been in Terlano since the late 19th century, at Cantina Terlano, cellar master Rudi Kofler has overseen more than 30 years of progressive work with the variety. He says 'Chardonnay is well consolidated here. It gives a very interesting component of tropical fruits, and in our Kreuth Chardonnay you can feel it alongside fine acidity and a creamy structure. Thanks to its complexity and mineral note, this powerful Chardonnay is a very long‑lived wine.'
Pinot Bianco too is impressive, taking on a stone fruit character that lifts it above some of the duller wines you may find further north. In the Terlano sub zone it is frequently blended, to the point where it feels wrong to deviate from what is now a classic mix: 70 % Pinot Bianco, 25 % Chardonnay, 5 % Sauvignon Blanc. It is best observed in Cantina Terlano's 'Novus Domus' Koffler summarises that 'this distinct Terlano cuvée embodies all the strengths of the region in a full-bodied multifaceted mineral wine that takes years of aging in the bottle to achieve its full potential.'
Similarly, Pinot Nero (noir) has emerged as capable and serious as anywhere else in Italy, especially from cooler sites with limestone-rich soils. Cantina Girlan is at the forefront of its growing reputation. Their 'Trattmann' Pinot Nero Riserva is one of the best examples, flaunting supple red fruit, earthy nuances, and a tension that hints at Burgundy, yet is unmistakably Alpine. Marc Pfitscher, who handles sales and marketing at the winery, says 'Trattmann embodies our long-standing commitment to achieving the highest quality, reflecting efforts spanning from 1985 to the present day.'
This success was born of the need for change however. Alto Adige's big identity crisis came in the 1980s when demand for the local Schiava plummeted. The long standing tradition of extracting as yield as possible was struggling to cope with competition for better wines from elsewhere. Schiava, meaning slave in Italian, is thought to be named after its tendency to accumulate to encourage so much fruit and weight that the vine would bend in on itself.
Wolfgang Klotz - director of the co-operative cellar Cantina Tramin - reflects that 'the old system of pergola trained Schiava wasn't working, so people were open minded for change.' The flavour profile may not have been fashionable at the time, but yields were too high and quality wasn't good enough. Klotz reminisces that telling people to leave half their crop on the floor wasn't easy, but, 'trying to get quality out of this unique valley has given us the power to preserve our traditions and landscape.' Without a market for the wines, the landscape would inevitably need to convert to alternative industry.
The sub zone of Santa Maddalena / Sankt Magdalena where the slopes over looking the city of Bolzano have become renowned for light red wines from Schiava. IDM/Südtirol Wein/Tiberio Sorvillo
Growers never fully abandoned their traditional grapes however. A combination of pride, nostalgia, and pragmatism kept Schiava and Lagrein in the vineyards, perhaps awaiting their moment of rediscovery. These have never been better, shedding that reputation for dilution and rusticity that plagued them during through late 1970s and early 80s. Today the best examples of Schiava are delicately floral and weightlessly complex, when grown on suitable sites.
Producers like Girlan are at the forefront, crafting Schiava with restraint, finesse, and a nod to Alpine tradition. They are reds for the curious - bright, translucent, carrying wild strawberry, herbs, and an undercurrent of mountain freshness. As Pfitscher says, 'in my view, the flavoral purity, freshness, and drinkability of this grape variety are unique qualities that align perfectly with current consumer preferences and market trends.'
Gewürztraminer provides another local conundrum. Often a polarising grape for its aromatic intensity, it produces very good wines in Alto Adige and deserves the attention. It is grown around the village of Tramin, where it is thought to take its name. The first plantings of red Traminer were made by Archduke Johann in Appiano in 1848. Shortly thereafter, selected locations in Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone, and Termeno were also planted with the vines. Today it is the region's most recognisable aromatic export - opulent, spicy, floral, often excessive for some palates. In recent years, a shift toward gastronomic restraint has emerged. Producers like Cantina Tramin craft benchmark examples that maintain exotic spice and rose petal lift while dialling back overt sweetness, especially when paired with food.
The rosy skins of Gewürztraminer or, red traminer. Florian Andergassen
Wolfgang Klotz says, 'We have a beautiful elegance in our Gewurztraminer. We don't plant it too high because it needs a lot of heat, and sun.' The variety is the most planted variety among co-operative of over 300 members and benefits from the village's clay soils. Klotz points out that 'it's a tricky variety to grow, and very selective of its site. The clay retains humidity, which helps cool the vines at night.' Produced in very low quantities is the exceptional 'Epokale' a sweet, late harvest wine. Klotz enthuses about its ability to develop. 'It's after 10 years that Gewurz really shows itself. You have to wait to get the complexity out of the wine. The spice really comes through.'
Alto Adige is not an easy region to grasp but through its complexities it produces outstanding wines that belong in any serious cellar. Its dual language, layered labels, grape diversity, and evolving concepts of site specific expressions of different varieties demand closer inspection. Undeniable freshness (climate change not withstanding) provides these wines with the backbone for longevity. For those willing to navigate the complexities, the rewards are profound.
Here, duality defines everything: Alpine cool meets Mediterranean warmth; German precision blends with Italian flair; international grapes excel alongside revitalised natives; whites and reds increasingly share the limelight. This is a region of depth, and thankfully, constant evolution. More importantly, it is place of real where real people farm an untenable single hectare to protect their landscape. For any wine lover seeking discovery, Alto Adige deserves to be firmly on the radar. Its complexity shouldn't put you off, it's the very reason the wines resonate with such authenticity and intrigue.
Christian Pisetta believes strongly that complexity is a defining virtue for Alto Adige and plays an essential role in shaping the region's identity. 'We're situated at the cultural and climatic crossroads between southern and Northern Europe' he says. 'It is extremely complex - linguistically, culturally, and geographically. This richness is not a challenge to overcome but a strength to embrace.' Is this the moment to stock up on Alto Adige's wines, before the rest of the world fully fathoms out their virtues?