Latest news with #AltoAdige
CNN
31-07-2025
- CNN
Fed-up Italian farmers set up mountain turnstiles to charge access to Instagram hot spots
Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel's weekly newsletter. Get news about destinations, plus the latest in aviation, food and drink, and where to stay. If Carlo Zanella, president of the Alto Adige Alpine Club, had his way, travel influencers would be banned from the Dolomites. He blames them for the latest Italian social media trend, which has lured hundreds of thousands of tourists to the mountain range in northern Italy, with many traipsing across private land to get that perfect shot. In response to the influx, frustrated local farmers have set up turnstiles, where tourists must pay 5 euros (nearly $6) to access several 'Instagrammable' spots, including the Seceda and Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks) mountain ranges. Photos showing lines of up to 4,000 people a day, have been popping up on social media in recent weeks. But rather than deter people from coming, the images have acted as a magnet. 'The media's been talking about the turnstiles, everyone's been talking about it,' says Zanella. 'And people go where everyone else goes. We're sheep.' Italian law mandates free access to natural parks, such as the Alps and Dolomites, but the landowners who set up the turnstiles say they have yet to receive any official pushback from authorities. Georg Rabanser, a former Italian national team snowboarder who owns land in a meadow on Seceda, told the Ladin-language magazine La Usc he and others started charging tourists to cross their land to make a point. 'So many people come through here every day, everyone goes through our properties and leaves trash,' he says. 'Ours was a cry for help. We expected a call from the provincial authorities. But nothing. We only read statements in the newspapers. Gossip; nothing concrete. We haven't even received warning letters. So we're moving forward.' Zanella, who says he avoids his once beloved alpine hiking trails during the summer months, supports the landowners charging admission to cross their property. He thinks the government should pay for the upkeep of the entrance system, likening the overtourism to Venice, where visitors have to pay a 10-euro entrance fee (around $12) on busy weekends. 'I would increase the price from 5 to 100 euros,' he tells CNN. 'And close the accounts of travel influencers.' Beyond the public nuisance of overcrowding, he fears the naivete of social media tourists puts them at risk. 'Once upon a time, those who came up to the mountains were prepared, dressed for the mountains, and came for hiking. Especially the Germans, who had maps and knew where to go. The Italians, on the other hand, set off, go, and take a cable car,' he says in a statement shared with CNN. 'Now I've seen people go up to Seceda with sun umbrellas and flip-flops and get stuck because the cable car closed and they hadn't checked the lift schedules (…) This isn't what the mountains should be,' he says. The local tourism body has petitioned authorities to close the turnstiles, insisting the issue is being overblown. The Santa Cristina Tourist Board, which oversees part of the area where the turnstiles have popped up, says they have hired four park rangers to ensure that tourists stay on the trails, don't cross the meadows and don't fly drones. 'Things have improved significantly,' Lukas Demetz, president of the Santa Cristina Tourist Board, said in a statement shared with CNN. 'And even the litter problem isn't as serious as people say. It's significantly reduced.' Still, across the Aosta Valley, parking lots have popped up to stop people from driving up the mountainside, and hikers are required to take the paid shuttle bus to Monte Rosa. At the Pian del Re peat bog in Piedmont, only 150 cars are allowed to park in the closest parking area to discourage visitors. Some regions, including Lake Braies, now charge 40 euros a car to access the area to try to deter people from coming in to take pictures. Arno Kompatscher, the governor of South Tyrol province, which includes part of the Dolomites range, has called on the national government to set restrictions to protect the fragile alpine ecosystems and dissuade local residents from renting out their chalets to tourists. The mountain residents aren't the only Italians clamping down on badly behaved visitors. Across the country, new ordinances have been a hallmark of the 2025 summer. Wearing just a swimsuit or going bare-chested in some Italian towns will attract more than a few looks. Semi-nudity could also land you a 500-euro fine — in the name of decorum. The Tuscan island of Elba and the Ligurian city of Diano Marina have both introduced summer ordinances that prohibit shirtless and swimsuit-only strutting — for both men and women — anywhere but the beach. And if your attire is deemed vulgar or 'indecent' in the eyes of any beholder, authorities can levy smaller fines starting at 25 euros. In Livorno, walking barefoot is prohibited. On Sardinian beaches, you'll get in trouble for digging holes for umbrellas, smoking, or lying on the sand without a mat. At the ever popular La Pelosa beach area, only 1,500 bathers are allowed at a time to prohibit overcrowding. In San Felice Circeo, a party town south of Rome where having an aperitivo on the beach is a way of life, take-away alcohol is banned both in town and on the beach. Loud music can only be blared during certain hours across much of the country, and in the southern region of Puglia, boaters risk a fine if they play music within 500 meters of the coast.
CNN
31-07-2025
- CNN
Fed-up Italian farmers set up mountain turnstiles to charge access to Instagram hot spots
Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel's weekly newsletter. Get news about destinations, plus the latest in aviation, food and drink, and where to stay. If Carlo Zanella, president of the Alto Adige Alpine Club, had his way, travel influencers would be banned from the Dolomites. He blames them for the latest Italian social media trend, which has lured hundreds of thousands of tourists to the mountain range in northern Italy, with many traipsing across private land to get that perfect shot. In response to the influx, frustrated local farmers have set up turnstiles, where tourists must pay 5 euros (nearly $6) to access several 'Instagrammable' spots, including the Seceda and Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks) mountain ranges. Photos showing lines of up to 4,000 people a day, have been popping up on social media in recent weeks. But rather than deter people from coming, the images have acted as a magnet. 'The media's been talking about the turnstiles, everyone's been talking about it,' says Zanella. 'And people go where everyone else goes. We're sheep.' Italian law mandates free access to natural parks, such as the Alps and Dolomites, but the landowners who set up the turnstiles say they have yet to receive any official pushback from authorities. Georg Rabanser, a former Italian national team snowboarder who owns land in a meadow on Seceda, told the Ladin-language magazine La Usc he and others started charging tourists to cross their land to make a point. 'So many people come through here every day, everyone goes through our properties and leaves trash,' he says. 'Ours was a cry for help. We expected a call from the provincial authorities. But nothing. We only read statements in the newspapers. Gossip; nothing concrete. We haven't even received warning letters. So we're moving forward.' Zanella, who says he avoids his once beloved alpine hiking trails during the summer months, supports the landowners charging admission to cross their property. He thinks the government should pay for the upkeep of the entrance system, likening the overtourism to Venice, where visitors have to pay a 10-euro entrance fee (around $12) on busy weekends. 'I would increase the price from 5 to 100 euros,' he tells CNN. 'And close the accounts of travel influencers.' Beyond the public nuisance of overcrowding, he fears the naivete of social media tourists puts them at risk. 'Once upon a time, those who came up to the mountains were prepared, dressed for the mountains, and came for hiking. Especially the Germans, who had maps and knew where to go. The Italians, on the other hand, set off, go, and take a cable car,' he says in a statement shared with CNN. 'Now I've seen people go up to Seceda with sun umbrellas and flip-flops and get stuck because the cable car closed and they hadn't checked the lift schedules (…) This isn't what the mountains should be,' he says. The local tourism body has petitioned authorities to close the turnstiles, insisting the issue is being overblown. The Santa Cristina Tourist Board, which oversees part of the area where the turnstiles have popped up, says they have hired four park rangers to ensure that tourists stay on the trails, don't cross the meadows and don't fly drones. 'Things have improved significantly,' Lukas Demetz, president of the Santa Cristina Tourist Board, said in a statement shared with CNN. 'And even the litter problem isn't as serious as people say. It's significantly reduced.' Still, across the Aosta Valley, parking lots have popped up to stop people from driving up the mountainside, and hikers are required to take the paid shuttle bus to Monte Rosa. At the Pian del Re peat bog in Piedmont, only 150 cars are allowed to park in the closest parking area to discourage visitors. Some regions, including Lake Braies, now charge 40 euros a car to access the area to try to deter people from coming in to take pictures. Arno Kompatscher, the governor of South Tyrol province, which includes part of the Dolomites range, has called on the national government to set restrictions to protect the fragile alpine ecosystems and dissuade local residents from renting out their chalets to tourists. The mountain residents aren't the only Italians clamping down on badly behaved visitors. Across the country, new ordinances have been a hallmark of the 2025 summer. Wearing just a swimsuit or going bare-chested in some Italian towns will attract more than a few looks. Semi-nudity could also land you a 500-euro fine — in the name of decorum. The Tuscan island of Elba and the Ligurian city of Diano Marina have both introduced summer ordinances that prohibit shirtless and swimsuit-only strutting — for both men and women — anywhere but the beach. And if your attire is deemed vulgar or 'indecent' in the eyes of any beholder, authorities can levy smaller fines starting at 25 euros. In Livorno, walking barefoot is prohibited. On Sardinian beaches, you'll get in trouble for digging holes for umbrellas, smoking, or lying on the sand without a mat. At the ever popular La Pelosa beach area, only 1,500 bathers are allowed at a time to prohibit overcrowding. In San Felice Circeo, a party town south of Rome where having an aperitivo on the beach is a way of life, take-away alcohol is banned both in town and on the beach. Loud music can only be blared during certain hours across much of the country, and in the southern region of Puglia, boaters risk a fine if they play music within 500 meters of the coast.
Forbes
03-07-2025
- Forbes
Why You Should Be Stocking Up On The Alpine Wines Of Alto Adige
Vineyards in the Merano area of Alto Adige. TIBERIO SORVILLO Alto Adige, or Südtirol as most locals prefer, is Italy's northernmost wine region. It's a place where vineyards cling to high mountain slopes, pressed between the soaring Alps and the jagged limestone faces of the Dolomites. Covering just over 5,800 hectares of vines, it is one of the country's most compact, yet geographically fragmented, wine territories. The vineyards follow the Adige river for nearly 100 kilometres, but dramatic altitude shifts, changing exposures, and varied soils demand precise viticulture. The topography undoubtedly influences the wines here, but Alto Adige is defined by a constant duality. Alpine and Mediterranean climates, Germanic and Italian identities, whites and reds of equal standing, this is a viticultural landscape built on contrast, and is all the richer for it. For those willing to navigate its intricacies, the reward is wines of startling quality, purity, and distinction. Lovers of crisp, mineral-driven whites will find much to enjoy, from Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Bianco, while Gewürztraminer is as good here as anywhere. Reds from lesser known varieties will find plenty of charm in Schiava and Lagrein. Alto Adige's wines can be complicated wines for English speakers to get their head around however. The region is fiercely protective of its identity; primarily German-speaking, but administratively Italian, Alto Adige-Südtirol has its own distinct culture. The dual-language nature of wine labelling can confuse casual browsers and sow uncertainty. German often leads, and you're far more likely to see "Sankt Magdalena" on the bottle than 'Santa Maddalena' for example. Is that a grape variety? you ask. No, it's a subzone, famous for growing Vernatsch, or, as Italian speakers would say, Schiava. New vocabulary overload yet? You'd be forgiven. Wineries can legally choose to label their wines as either Alto Adige or Südtirol - or reference both - but it remains a voluntary expression of identity, not a legal obligation. Fortunately, bi-lingual labelling is widespread, and as president of the Consorzio Eduard Bernhard says, that reflects both cultural pride and the practicalities of trying to reach a broader market. 'We're very much products of our history. This region used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. We're not really Italian, but we're also not German. We're who we are, proud of our mountain culture.' Further complexity emerges as one peers into Alto Adige's geographic designations. Beyond the broad Alto Adige DOC, a patchwork of official sub-zones is in place to offer clues in terroir differences. There are six in total: Val Venosta, Meranese, Terlano, Santa Maddalena, Colli di Bolzano, and Valle Isarco. These distinctions matter. The steep slopes of the Valle Isarco TIBERIO SORVILLO Take Valle Isarco, a cool, granite-soiled valley near the Austrian border, producing racy, high-acid whites like Kerner and Sylvaner. Terlano is famed for its ripe Chardonnay, and near Bolzano, Lagrein thrives in the valley floor's heat-retaining soils, giving spicy, structured reds. Santa Maddalena is synonymous with Schiava (or should we say Sanct Magdalena and Vernatsch?), and it also grows well in Merano. Such names can blur together at first, and deciphering them all is part of the Alto Adige wine puzzle. Perhaps these distinctions don't matter enough however. The DOC is set to introduce 86 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGAs), adding to these sub zones with a model similar to Barolo's MGAs or Burgundy's official climats. The goal? Greater transparency around origin and terroir. In theory, this could help spotlight Alto Adige's remarkable vineyard diversity - granite slopes, volcanic porphyry, glacial moraines - all compressed into just under 6,000 hectares of fragmented vineyards, layered across extreme altitudes. In practice though, is there a risk of adding yet more confusion to an already intricate region, especially for international markets that might still be learning to distinguish Südtirol from Alto Adige? Of course for the moment, adding 86 names to the appellation's lexicon is a colossal amount of additional information to thrust at the consumer, but, like many attempts to infuse territory with prestige, it is a long term project. Bernhart, reflects that not all of them will become famous. 'We have created a framework to showcase our terroir, but of course, only a handful of these will really enter the wine lover's consciousness.' Marc Pfitscher of Cantina Girlan is supportive. 'When observing the century-old Vernatsch vineyards in the UGA 'Gschleier', one cannot help but be captivated by their historical and viticultural significance.' He believes that these characteristics are reflected in tasting. 'This for me is the very definition of authenticity and for this reason, we are firmly committed to the preservation of these vineyards and actively promote them.' Another stand out site is likely to be Gries. Across a body of just over 270 hectares, located on the edge of Bolzano, you will find the largest and most important concentration of Lagrein vines. For those passing visiting, the key landmark is the historic abbey of Muri-Gries which is now a fully operational winery. The wine to track down is a Lagrein Riserva named after the plot it grows on - Vigna Klosteranger - a beautiful expression of the variety. Manfred Bernard who has recently taken over the winemaking there says, 'for people in Bolzano the UGA is recognition, not complication. We all know Lagrein grows well here. This recognition will help people from around the world know about Lagrein too.' A bottle of Lagrein, showing Südtirol on the label. Muri-Gries Christian Pisetta, export manager at Alois Lageder, one of the top producers in the region also defends the complexity. 'Through the UGA system, we now have a more precise tool to currently delineate and communicate these differences, allowing for a clearer expression of place in the glass.' Inevitably, consumers will latch onto the sites that deserve the attention most and over time, as producers embrace the vehicle for single site wines, consumers will gain familiarity with them. The system should enrich the conversation around the territory and ultimately deepen Alto Adige's labyrinthine identity. Pisetta reflects further on the long term aspiration. 'Is this really what we need? I think so. We recognise that this landscape is not static. With ongoing climate change and global warming, what is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.' The strength of Alto Adige lies in its multitude of elevations, soil types and microclimates, which gives the region flexibility, but will almost certainly demand adaptability. 'The identification of the best sites for specific grape varieties must remain dynamic' he says. 'What is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.' A reminder of the extremes of mountain viticulture in Alto Adige. Alto Adige DOC / Christian Gufler On the flip side, we have a more detailed map to understand Alto Adige's diversity. It is arguably Italy's most varietally broad wine region, today cultivating over 20 grapes with genuine success. This versatility reflects the region's extraordinary range of altitudes, from valley floors at 200 metres, to mountain vineyards cresting 1,000 metres. This mosaic of microclimates encourages growers to match varieties with a suitable terroir, especially when we consider that of the nearly 5000 growers, the average landholding is just one hectare. In the last couple of decades, the region has proven that international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir flourish here, particularly at higher elevations where cool nights preserve acidity and aromatics. The results have been undoubtedly impressive. Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, found an ideal home. Wines like Terlano's 'Winkl' reveal piercing minerality, citrus precision, and longevity that places them among Italy's finest expressions of the grape. Chardonnay, notably from cooler pockets near Eppan and Terlano, ranks quietly among Italy's best. These wines balance ripeness with taut minerality, drawing quiet comparisons to Burgundy, yet framed by alpine clarity. Terlano vineyards, high up in the hills, showing the mix of elevation and micro climate. Cantina Terlano Although Chardonnay has been in Terlano since the late 19th century, at Cantina Terlano, cellar master Rudi Kofler has overseen more than 30 years of progressive work with the variety. He says 'Chardonnay is well consolidated here. It gives a very interesting component of tropical fruits, and in our Kreuth Chardonnay you can feel it alongside fine acidity and a creamy structure. Thanks to its complexity and mineral note, this powerful Chardonnay is a very long‑lived wine.' Pinot Bianco too is impressive, taking on a stone fruit character that lifts it above some of the duller wines you may find further north. In the Terlano sub zone it is frequently blended, to the point where it feels wrong to deviate from what is now a classic mix: 70 % Pinot Bianco, 25 % Chardonnay, 5 % Sauvignon Blanc. It is best observed in Cantina Terlano's 'Novus Domus' Koffler summarises that 'this distinct Terlano cuvée embodies all the strengths of the region in a full-bodied multifaceted mineral wine that takes years of aging in the bottle to achieve its full potential.' Similarly, Pinot Nero (noir) has emerged as capable and serious as anywhere else in Italy, especially from cooler sites with limestone-rich soils. Cantina Girlan is at the forefront of its growing reputation. Their 'Trattmann' Pinot Nero Riserva is one of the best examples, flaunting supple red fruit, earthy nuances, and a tension that hints at Burgundy, yet is unmistakably Alpine. Marc Pfitscher, who handles sales and marketing at the winery, says 'Trattmann embodies our long-standing commitment to achieving the highest quality, reflecting efforts spanning from 1985 to the present day.' This success was born of the need for change however. Alto Adige's big identity crisis came in the 1980s when demand for the local Schiava plummeted. The long standing tradition of extracting as yield as possible was struggling to cope with competition for better wines from elsewhere. Schiava, meaning slave in Italian, is thought to be named after its tendency to accumulate to encourage so much fruit and weight that the vine would bend in on itself. Wolfgang Klotz - director of the co-operative cellar Cantina Tramin - reflects that 'the old system of pergola trained Schiava wasn't working, so people were open minded for change.' The flavour profile may not have been fashionable at the time, but yields were too high and quality wasn't good enough. Klotz reminisces that telling people to leave half their crop on the floor wasn't easy, but, 'trying to get quality out of this unique valley has given us the power to preserve our traditions and landscape.' Without a market for the wines, the landscape would inevitably need to convert to alternative industry. The sub zone of Santa Maddalena / Sankt Magdalena where the slopes over looking the city of Bolzano have become renowned for light red wines from Schiava. IDM/Südtirol Wein/Tiberio Sorvillo Growers never fully abandoned their traditional grapes however. A combination of pride, nostalgia, and pragmatism kept Schiava and Lagrein in the vineyards, perhaps awaiting their moment of rediscovery. These have never been better, shedding that reputation for dilution and rusticity that plagued them during through late 1970s and early 80s. Today the best examples of Schiava are delicately floral and weightlessly complex, when grown on suitable sites. Producers like Girlan are at the forefront, crafting Schiava with restraint, finesse, and a nod to Alpine tradition. They are reds for the curious - bright, translucent, carrying wild strawberry, herbs, and an undercurrent of mountain freshness. As Pfitscher says, 'in my view, the flavoral purity, freshness, and drinkability of this grape variety are unique qualities that align perfectly with current consumer preferences and market trends.' Gewürztraminer provides another local conundrum. Often a polarising grape for its aromatic intensity, it produces very good wines in Alto Adige and deserves the attention. It is grown around the village of Tramin, where it is thought to take its name. The first plantings of red Traminer were made by Archduke Johann in Appiano in 1848. Shortly thereafter, selected locations in Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone, and Termeno were also planted with the vines. Today it is the region's most recognisable aromatic export - opulent, spicy, floral, often excessive for some palates. In recent years, a shift toward gastronomic restraint has emerged. Producers like Cantina Tramin craft benchmark examples that maintain exotic spice and rose petal lift while dialling back overt sweetness, especially when paired with food. The rosy skins of Gewürztraminer or, red traminer. Florian Andergassen Wolfgang Klotz says, 'We have a beautiful elegance in our Gewurztraminer. We don't plant it too high because it needs a lot of heat, and sun.' The variety is the most planted variety among co-operative of over 300 members and benefits from the village's clay soils. Klotz points out that 'it's a tricky variety to grow, and very selective of its site. The clay retains humidity, which helps cool the vines at night.' Produced in very low quantities is the exceptional 'Epokale' a sweet, late harvest wine. Klotz enthuses about its ability to develop. 'It's after 10 years that Gewurz really shows itself. You have to wait to get the complexity out of the wine. The spice really comes through.' Alto Adige is not an easy region to grasp but through its complexities it produces outstanding wines that belong in any serious cellar. Its dual language, layered labels, grape diversity, and evolving concepts of site specific expressions of different varieties demand closer inspection. Undeniable freshness (climate change not withstanding) provides these wines with the backbone for longevity. For those willing to navigate the complexities, the rewards are profound. Here, duality defines everything: Alpine cool meets Mediterranean warmth; German precision blends with Italian flair; international grapes excel alongside revitalised natives; whites and reds increasingly share the limelight. This is a region of depth, and thankfully, constant evolution. More importantly, it is place of real where real people farm an untenable single hectare to protect their landscape. For any wine lover seeking discovery, Alto Adige deserves to be firmly on the radar. Its complexity shouldn't put you off, it's the very reason the wines resonate with such authenticity and intrigue. Christian Pisetta believes strongly that complexity is a defining virtue for Alto Adige and plays an essential role in shaping the region's identity. 'We're situated at the cultural and climatic crossroads between southern and Northern Europe' he says. 'It is extremely complex - linguistically, culturally, and geographically. This richness is not a challenge to overcome but a strength to embrace.' Is this the moment to stock up on Alto Adige's wines, before the rest of the world fully fathoms out their virtues?
Forbes
01-06-2025
- Business
- Forbes
A Miscellany Of New Italian Wine Releases
The vineyards of San Lorenzo in Italy's Dolomite Mountains. With summer on the wing, one yearns for outdoor dining and perhaps a bit more adventurous spirit when it comes to drinking wines. Here are several Italian wines I like very much and give good bang for the buck. Its Germanic name is due to Kaltern's vineyards on the border of Austria. KALTERN KALTERERSEE CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2024 ($14). True, it doesn't sound very Italian but this splendid red wine is made in Alto-Adige in the north, from vineyards around Lake Kaltern from Alpine Schiava grapes (called Tollinger in Austria). The vintage weather was perfect and allowed for early ripening. With just 12.5% alcohol., it is recommended as an apéritif with light foods, but I found it delicious with grilled chicken and vegetable-based pastas. FAMIGLIA COTARELLA FERENANO BIANCO LAZIO 2119 ($25). Named after the ancient Etruscan town of Ferento in Lazio, this 100% Roscetto (similar to Trebbiano and Greco) uses grapes from planting averaging 17 years of age. Vinified in stainless steel and oak tanks after an eight-hour cryomaceration, it then spends four months in French oak and six months aging. It emerges at an alcohol level of 12.7%, making it an easy to drink wine with lots of tropical fruit notes, very good with dishes like salmon, branzino and Gorgonzola cheese. Bolla is one of the oldest Veneto wineries making a classic Amarone. BOLLA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2018 ($56). This was the first Amarone I ever had, way back in the 1970s, and I was impressed with its big, leathery, slightly sweet flavor that is a classic profile of this Veneto wine. Since then Amarones have become lighter and less distinctive, but Bolla's blend of Corvina and Rondinella still maintains the boldness of the wine, making it excellent with red meat on the grill and in autumn with venison. VIGNE SURRAU SCIALA VERMENTINO DI GALLURA SUPERIORE 2022 ($29). 'Sciala' comes from an Arabic word for an abundant harvest, and this is a prime example of Sardinian Vermentino , made by Mariolino Siddi, planted in sandy, granite-rich soil that provides minerality. Aged for six months, it is released with 14% alcohol. The Demuro family produces about 90,000 bottles. Ideal with linguine with clam sauce. OLIANAS VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA 2023 ($20). Here's another fine Sardinian Vermentino, this from the southern region of Sarcidano. The Olianas estates' 35 hectares of vineyards are planted exclusively with native Sardinian grape varieties such as Cannonau, Vermentino, Tintillu, Nasco, Bovale and Carignano. This Vermentino comes from the Murvonis vineyard with a clay loam texture and the Porruddu vineyard, with a dark brown loam texture soil and sandy marl. About 20% of the grapes are harvested slightly in advance and allowed to ferment with maceration on the skins. The result is a complex example of this all-too-often bland varietal. This is a Tuscan IGT wine made from 100% Cabernet Franc. TENUTA CASADEI FILARE 18 2022 ($65). An IGT venture by Tuscan Stefano Casadei and Californian Fred Cline, both dedicated to organic crops. The wine is from the estate in Suvereto, made from 100% Cabernet Franc planted in 1999 and grown on medium texture soil. Spontaneous fermentation and maceration take place within tburied amphorae, and the wine is then aged in new French oak barriques for 18 to 20 months. The producers say this has a potential to age for twenty years but I found is very good now in its youth especially as an accompaniment to pork. 'VETTE' DI SAN LEONARDO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 ($25). Sauvignon Blanc is not rare in Italy though vintners have only recently been making examples that show off Italian rather than New World terroir, in this case from the Dolomites. The estate, since 2012 run by Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga, is known for its Bordeaux-like blends but the Sauvignon Blanc 'Vette' ('peaks') comes from a high elevation site to the north of the winery, vinified in stainless steel and aged on fine lees for five months. It has just enough vegetal flavor, kept in balance with its acids and floral components. Livio Felluga has long been one of the premier white winemakers of northern Italy. LIVIO FELLUGA FRIULANO SIGAR ($63). Long among the finest producers of Italy, Livio Felluga named this wine after his enjoyment of a cigar while inspecting his Rosazzo estate in the evening. Today, the 500-acre winery is led by Livio's son, Andrea. Vines were planted in 1963. The grapes are hand-picked and undergo maceration on the skins for a few hours, then racked into terracotta jars towards the end of alcoholic fermentation, to permit proper temperature control. There is a fine citrus and aroma of herbs, making it wonderful with all seafood.
Forbes
28-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Forbes
Wine-Tasting In Alto Adige: A Unique And Still Authentic Corner Of Italy
Farm worker hand-picking organic "Lagrein" grapes, a red wine variety native to South Tyrol, Italy Alto Adige is among Italy's smallest wine-growing regions and is far less known and less touristed than the wine regions of Tuscany, Veneto, or Piedmont. However, the area is becoming increasingly popular among visitors seeking a more relaxed and less crowded setting to discover exceptional wines. Alto Adige, also known as Sudtirol (literally South Tyrol), is in the northern part of Italy that borders Switzerland and Austria. Evidence suggests that wines have been cultivated here for over 2,500 years, making them an integral part of the people and place. Until 1918, this southern area of Tyrol was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Thus, the region's wines, foods and traditions reflect not only Italian influences but also those of its Swiss and Austrian neighbors. Both Italian and German are the official languages, and some 65% of the population is German-speaking. Lake Caldaro, Alto Adige, location of the South Tyrolean Wine Museum The region boasts 4,800 predominantly independent winegrowers whose vineyards collectively cover more than 14,456 acres. Typically family-owned and operated, most wineries are small and collaborate through cooperatives for wine production and marketing. A smaller segment consists of private estate wineries that utilize their own grapes or source them from elsewhere. The diversity of the climate and soils is ideal for growing more than 20 grape varieties, contributing to the wide range of top-quality Alto Adige wines available. Located at the foot of the Alps, the region is blessed with warm Mediterranean air currents while shielded from the wind by the Dolomite Mountains. Many vineyards are cultivated on steep slopes at altitudes ranging from 660 to 3,300 feet, requiring manual labor to tend the vines and hand-pick the grapes. The soil of this relatively small area is rich with about 150 different types of rock that vary from parcel to parcel, adding to the complexity of the wines. Hot summers, mild winters, and the diurnal variation of hot days and cool nights allow for slow grape ripening. Enjoying a white sparkling Alto Adige wine with pasta The Consorzio Alto Adige Wines, established in 2007, is the official group responsible for promoting and ensuring the quality of these regional wines. The Consorzio jump-started an effort begun by winemakers in the 1980s to shift the focus from mass production to improved quality and sustainable viticulture methods. Remarkably, 98 percent of the wines are now produced under the Alto Adige DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation. It has also been a driving force behind an ambitious UGA Zoning Project —an initiative that elevates 86 meticulously defined vineyard areas (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive), to ensure each varietal genuinely represents its terroir. Historically known for its native red grape production (such as Schiava and Lagrein), Alto Adige has also become a leader in producing elegant white wines in recent decades. In terms of whites, the region is best known for its Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco but also produces excellent Pinot Nero, one of its signature reds. Due to its multicultural heritage, Alto Adige wines are typically labeled in both Italian and German. For example, Pino Bianco is also called Weissburgunder and Pinot Grigio is called Ruländer or Grauburgunder. Bicycling through a vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy The Dolomite Mountain range (a UNESCO World Heritage site) passes through Alto Adige, making the area a must-visit for hikers and skiers. But it is also a mecca for wine tourists. The Alto Adige Wine Road, one of Italy's oldest wine roads, spans 90 miles. It allows tourists to visit 15 wine villages and 80 member wineries surrounded by breathtaking mountains, scenic valleys and pristine lakes. Along the route, wine enthusiasts can stop for guided cellar tours and tastings of local wines. Each village and winery offers authentic opportunities to mingle with locals and learn about the traditions of the people living and working there. In addition to Italian and German, many locals also speak English. Several examples of wineries on the route: Wellness at Five-Star Adler Lodge, in Soprabolzano, a mountain village on a scenic high plateau over Bolzano Bolzano, the capital of Alto Adige, offers an excellent base for tourists. It has interesting wine bars, wine shops, and numerous nearby wineries. With its charming Old Town, the city offers guests a range of eateries and hotels, from budget-friendly to luxury. In addition, one-of-a-kind local guest houses, hotels, and agriturismi (working farms) offer relaxed overnight accommodations throughout the region. Visits can be timed to coincide with local festivals, such as Vino in Festa in late spring, and other seasonal events. Although Alto Adige is considered a four-season destination, many wine enthusiasts prefer to visit in September or October to witness the grape harvest (wimmen) and the vibrant fall foliage. The Consorzio Alto Adige Wines recently unveiled its newest wine tourism project, the Wine & Bike Alto Adige Collection. This initiative aims to showcase the region's natural beauty as cyclists discover its wines. In partnership with Komoot, an Italian app, visitors can choose from eight different Alto Adige-themed self-guided tours. Wine-tasting in Alto Adige is an immersive experience that couples excellent wines with distinctive fusion cuisine in an unspoiled natural setting.
