French chefs quake as Michelin prepares new guide

Daily Tribune

29-03-2025

Chefs across France are waiting for one of the most exciting and dreaded moments of the year: publication of the new annual guide from Michelin with its highly coveted stars.
The famous red bible for gastronomes still makes and breaks cooking careers, despite increasing competition from rival food lists and the rise of Instagram influencers with their younger, online followers.
The 2025 Michelin edition on Monday promises to celebrate kitchens outside Paris, with new talents uncovered "in all regions in mainland France", Michelin guide boss Gwendal Poullennec told AFP.
At stake are not only the reputations of chefs and hundreds of businesses that depend on the guide for visibility but also France's image as a fine food destination.
"The level of the world food scene is constantly rising but I must say that France is holding its own and is part of this dynamic with a growing number of starred restaurants each year," Poullennec added.
What began as a guide for people wealthy enough to own a car in France 125 years ago is now a global business that sends its under-cover tasters to restaurants around the world, producing editions for around 50 destinations.
France remains the country with the highest number of three-star restaurants, the highest award, which denotes kitchens where cooking is "elevated to an art form" and chefs are "at the peak of their profession".
Japan is second, followed by Spain, Italy, and the United States.
But the guide has sought to shed its reputation for elitist and pricey dinners, with more diverse eating options making it onto its lists of recommended destinations.
After rewarding roadside food stalls in Thailand and Singapore, the guide granted a star to a taco stand in Mexico City last year, causing a local sensation but baffling regular eaters at the simple four-dish outlet.