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Historic and happening: discover the best of Budapest

Historic and happening: discover the best of Budapest

The Guardian6 days ago
Budapest isn't just Hungary's capital – it is also its cultural heart, a cosmopolitan city packed with architectural marvels, natural beauty and a vibrancy that pulses in everything from fashion to food.
Wander along the Danube that separates the original cities of Buda and Pest and you'll come to one of Europe's most awe-inspiring creations, the Hungarian Parliament Building. Neo-gothic on the outside, neo-Renaissance within, this magnificent building sets the stage for Budapest's captivating collection of baroque and art nouveau structures.
Just a short two-and-a-half-hour flight from London with British Airways, the city is ideal for a weekend away, or a longer break, when you can take in the architecture at a more leisurely pace.
One of the most enjoyable introductions to Budapest is a ride on the city's distinctive yellow trams, specifically line 2. This runs all along the Pest embankment, giving you superb views of Buda across the river. Hop off at the 19th-century Chain Bridge and take the cute Sikló Funicular up to the Vár (Castle Hill), home to some of the city's most grandiose buildings.
Visitors can't resist Fisherman's Bastion, a 19th-century fortress with ornate towers and turrets – not to mention fabulous views of the city. Its equally ornate neighbour, the gothic Matthias Church, dazzles with its intricately patterned tiled roof and soaring spires. In the midst of all this splendour is the enormous Buda Castle, which originally dates from the 13th century and now houses the Hungarian National Gallery and its vast collection of Hungarian and international art and artefacts over the past millennium.
Cross the Danube to Pest for more cultural treasures, notably the Museum of Fine Arts, an impressive neoclassical building housing more than 100,000 by European masters and one of central Europe's most significant collections of Egyptian antiquities. Its setting is just as impressive – right beside Heroes' Square, the largest in Budapest, which was built in 1896 to commemorate the millennium of the Hungarian settlement of the Carpathian basin. Here in this handsome open space, people gather regularly for cultural events and festivals.
It's also the gateway to City Park (Városliget), which has some of Budapest's most enticing attractions spread across 121 hectares (300 acres). One not to be missed is the Széchenyi Thermal Baths, whose thermal springs flow into indoor and outdoor pools set within a fantastically lavish neo-baroque complex painted in vivid yellow. Wallowing in thermal baths is a Hungarian pastime as important as stopping for a coffee, a cake and a good gossip in a coffeehouse, and Széchenyi is one of the most delightful places to soothe the body and spirit. If you're in Buda, you could take in the Rudas Thermal Bath, which has a 16th-century Turkish bath as its centrepiece, as well as a contrasting modern rooftop pool overlooking the Danube.
Don't be in too much of a rush to leave City Park, however. In the summer, go boating on City Park Lake. When Budapest turns into a winter wonderland later in the year, the frozen lake becomes a magical setting for ice-skating. Music lovers, meanwhile, will be enthralled by the House of Music Hungary, a unique futuristic music museum designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto and which has proved a hit since it opened in 2022. Under an undulating roof surrounded by trees, it combines a music museum with an open-air stage, concert halls and exhibition spaces – typical of the creative spirit that flows through the city.
As you make your way back towards the centre of the city, you'll walk along Budapest's grandest avenue, Andrássy Avenue, which combines stately villas with major cultural institutions including the grand Hungarian State Opera House. Shoppers know Andrássy Avenue as the place to browse luxury boutiques such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Throughout this district runs bustling Váci Street, the main pedestrianised artery lined with shops and restaurants.
Head to the Central Market Hall, whose stalls showcase mouthwatering local produce in a splendid neo-gothic hall. Or, alternatively, make the most of the city's burgeoning Michelin-starred restaurant scene. You'll find a two-star venue in modern Hungarian, Stand and six one-star offerings, from Salt to Borkonyha Winekitchen. There are also Bib Gourmand options in Goli (the nickname locals gave to the historic building), with its Mediterranean and Middle Eastern mix, and N28 Wine and Kitchen, where 95% of the wines are Hungarian.
In the midst of buzzing Pest is another of Budapest's architectural highlights, the imposing 19th-century St Stephen's Basilica. Not just a place of worship, it also hosts weekly concerts and other cultural events within its glittering interior. Climb to the top of its dome and you'll be rewarded with panoramic views of Budapest, including the beautiful green and gold Zsolnay-tiled roof of the art nouveau Postal Savings Bank.
Save one of Budapest's most relaxing sights for last – the green oasis that is Margaret Island in the Danube is ideal to jog around or explore by bike. Lose yourself in nature within wooded trails and landscaped parks, before going for a swim in the thermal waters of Palatinus Strand Baths.
There's no better way to enjoy the stunning panoramic views of the city than to take time out on the island with a picnic. With that in mind, don't forget to pack a bottle of the country's fine Tokaji white or a rich red wine – it's the perfect way to savour them.
Find out more and book your Budapest trip at ba.com. When you fly with British Airways, you'll enjoy a generous hand-baggage allowance and best of British service. You'll also be able to book an ATOL-protected holiday package with British Airways Holidays, with the option of low deposits and flexible payments
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