The stylish man's essential guide to spring footwear

Telegraph

13-04-2025

After a winter of discontent, the first, glorious green shoots of spring have arrived across the UK, and gladdening to the heart it is too, amidst the uncertainty of the wider global news right now. The soothing sway of cherry blossoms is a balm. With it comes the seasonal adjustment to our wardrobes, as the knitwear is finally relegated and a lighter mood infuses how we dress.
The issue of men's footwear also comes into play here; the heavyweight Derby, Oxfords and clomping boots of the last few months give way to more appropriate iterations – but the rub here is in finding something that's lighter than those serious forms of footwear, but smart enough for more formal environments. A casual pair of trainers is great. I spend my life in them, courtesy of a great leather pair from Grenson, but certain settings call for something a little more upright and proper (last year, when these pages covered whether it was appropriate to wear trainers with a suit, it excited much robust debate in the comments section; clearly a topic of contention). Over the politics surrounding sandals and when or whether at all to wear them, we shall debate another day.
So what should you be stepping into this spring?
Loafers
One man's stealthily sleek slip-on is another's regional nightclub attire. Loafers are tricky, but there are myriad variants and twists on wearing them. A standard brown pair, for example, is fine but generally avoided alongside smart office attire. Chinos or slim-leg, dark jeans are happiest bedfellows here.If you're in the market for a more classic variety, GH Bass's Weejuns are pretty peerless and failsafe. They've been around since 1936, so they know what they're doing.
Weejuns Penny loafers, £195, GH Bass
Slip-ons
Slip-ons get a bad rep for being somewhat freshman, as you haven't quite grown into your big boy shoes just yet. But there are dressier, more grown up varieties these days, in supple suede and rich colours. Luxury Italian house Loro Piana cornered the market on this with their Summer Walk loafers that swiftly became a sign of membership of an elite club, a fixture of Succession 's billionaire character's attire. The popularity of this best seller has seen a raft of, shall we say, 'homages', especially given the fact that it will cost you well into three figures from the brand itself. Whether you opt for the original or one in the vein of it is entirely up to you.
Torford Easy shoe, £75, Clarks
Deck shoes
Also known as boat shoes, and thanks to their nautical connotations, pleasingly in step with warmer seasons; there's something of the Ivy League about them; they sprang to life in preppy Connecticut courtesy of Sperry Topsiders, which are still the go-to today. They're best suited to more casual manoeuvres, rather than with any form of tailoring, but look great for weekends or holiday attire. They're soft in their make up, but have a point of interest in the detailing of the moccasin construction and distinctive lacing. Tan varieties can be a little bit 'frat boy', so it's worth embracing the full nautical swell and perhaps going for white and blue shades. It's a tad White Lotus, which is a good thing.
Seacycled shoes, £29.99 (reduced from £100), Sperry Topsider
Smart trainers
The easiest 'in' when it comes to spring footwear that you don't have to think about too much. Sneakers have in recent years become elevated to new sartorial heights, and hit a sweet spot between smart and formal - the basic shape is the same, but the materials and finish are luxurious rather than sporty. See varieties in suedes or leathers, and stealth wealth shades like caramel, fawn and chocolate, as well as your standard navy and black. They work well with corporate ensembles too, because they blend in easier. These aren't your overly branded varieties - see the fallout when Rishi Sunak wore Adidas Sambas – but the kind of discreet, subtle sneakers that can fit seamlessly with your more 'together' ensembles. Again, they're light, which makes them great for spring.
Suede trainers, £195, Grenson
Espadrilles
Yes, these are excellent options for summer attire that recalls Pablo Picasso (who was a fan) and the languorous days of the south of France, but hear me out for their case for wearing espadrilles with smarter get-ups; it's molto Italiano to don a pair in black alongside a black suit, and looks airily chic. Likewise with your evening cocktail attire; add a pair of cream chinos and a polo shirt. Just keep them for the warmer days of spring; they don't provide much in the way of coverage.
Herringbone cotton espadrilles, £75, Drakes
Driving shoes
Perhaps the racy Italian brother to the more standardised loafer, driving shoes are soft fitting and summery, and they generally benefit from coming in a broad variety of colours if you're feeling particularly buoyant and bright this spring. Tods is the undisputed master in this arena, thanks to its Gommino with distinctive 'pebble' sole. Just add an Amalfi coast backdrop this Easter break.