‘An absolute steal': supermarket croissants, tasted and rated by Felicity Cloake

The Guardian

28-06-2025

Until the age of almost 30, I was largely indifferent to croissants, primarily because, despite all the time I'd spent in France, I'd tried a squashy industrial example sometime in the 1990s and decided they weren't worth the effort. When I finally tasted a croissant fresh from a bakery, out of politeness more than anything else, the flakes fell from my eyes, and a love affair was born. Since then, I've made up for lost time – in fact, I wrote an entire book based around the idea of cycling across France rating croissants, and judged the inaugural Isigny Sainte-Mère Best Croissant Competition UK. But I still steer clear of the supermarket variety wherever I am in the world, so this tasting was a baptism of fire for me.
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My usual croissant-judging system, out of 10, has had to be adapted for the Filter's rating system, but the criteria remain the same: I place little weight on appearance, because some of the flabbiest, most disappointing-looking croissants I've encountered have been the most delicious and, conversely, some perfect-looking beauties have turned out to taste of nothing. Personally, I favour an all-butter croissant, because I like them to taste of butter, and preferably that slightly sweet French butter; if you have to add more on top, or indeed jam, cheese, or Nutella, they've not used enough in the dough. Ideally, the little paper bag should be translucent with grease by the time you get it to the cafe seat where you intend to demolish it in the company of a cafe creme. That said, I'm not averse to the slightly more savoury, bready British style, either, so long as it's done well.
Texture-wise, though, I'm aware that a technically perfect croissant should be made up of many airy layers of pastry; I prefer them a little squidgy in the middle and shatteringly crisp at the ends and underneath. After all, if a croissant doesn't leave you covered in buttery crumbs, you're doing it wrong. Not that I'm fussy, of course.
£1.30 each in store★★★★★
I'm always a bit suspicious of big croissants – what are they trying to make up for? – but I can see the flakes coming off this one as I remove it from the bag. It's even authentically squashed, as if put in there warm from the oven. Shatteringly crisp ends, lovely, damp, elastic crumb and a savoury, even salty flavour that seems to be characteristic of British croissants. It doesn't taste French, but it is delicious – I'd definitely buy this again.
59p each in store
★★★★☆
A clumsily large croissant with a mildly off-putting matt finish, like a pair of American tan tights, but a prime example of how you should never judge by appearances, particularly when it comes to pastry. Inside lurk some very respectable layers and a decent, if fairly neutral buttery flavour. It's also an absolute steal.
£1.30 each★★★★☆
If I'd been told there was a French interloper here, I'd have picked out this glossy, handsomely layered chap as the most likely candidate. It's a bit dry inside, sadly, but it has excellent lamination and they've nailed that authentically French flavour, with the delicate sweetness of good unsalted butter.
£1.75 for two★★★★☆
This one has a spray tan worthy of Love Island (I suspect egg wash), and though it has lost a bit of definition in the oven, a few layers are evident on the outside. Unfortunately, I cut it in half to discover an enormous hole in the middle, which feels like a technical fault or a swizz, because what I can taste is actually really rather good. Faintly sweet and subtly buttery, with crunchy, if dry ends, and what remains of an elastic interior. Feels like it has potential, hence the charitable rating.
£1 each in store
★★★☆☆
A medium croissant, with a pleasant colour and a classic, flaky appearance. It's not bad at all texture-wise – the ends are delicious and a few layers are evident in the middle – but it's a bit dull and could do with a pinch of salt.
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£1.75 for two★★★☆☆
Looks a bit deflated, with a dull finish and not much in the way of layering visible. The flavour actually isn't bad – slightly yeasty and sweet – but the insides are fluffy like a bloomer, rather than rich and springy. Not unpleasant, you understand; just not what I look for in a croissant.
£2.38 for four★★★☆☆
Another one to have been given an egg wash glow-up, though I won't hold it against it, because it wears it well, with decent definition and an airy, honeycomb centre. That said, 'exceptional' might be a little hubristic to describe this fluffy, inoffensively bland number.
59p each in store
★★☆☆☆
A nice-looking, golden brown pastry (if rather solid, like a toy croissant). There are some promising-looking layers on the outside that don't translate into much in the way of lamination in the middle, and it has an odd, pronounced, sweet yeasty flavour that reminds me slightly of rooibos tea. Unfortunately, I don't like rooibos tea.
50p each in store
★★☆☆☆
A small croissant, which is not necessarily a criticism; if it contains enough butter, small can be perfectly formed. I don't doubt some has been involved in the manufacturing process, but sadly I can't detect it in the finished product. The ends are so dry I have to reach for a glass of water, while the middle is bready, with a faintly sweet, but fairly neutral flavour. Butter and jam would be required to eat a whole one.
£2.25 for six at Tesco£2.25 for six at Waitrose★☆☆☆☆
All the definition of a croissant emoji, but none of the colour, this reminds me of a runty version of a croissant-shaped dog toy I used to keep finding in my bed. No layers, just soft, chewy dough with a weirdly caramelised flavour. Tastes long-life, processed and unpleasant – I don't get the point of these, sorry. They remind me of something you might be given for breakfast on a long-haul flight, right down to the individual plastic wrapping.