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A guide to Šibenik, Croatia's oldest coastal town

A guide to Šibenik, Croatia's oldest coastal town

Yahoo08-03-2025
On the central coastline of Dalmatia, where the River Krka winds its way to the Adriatic Sea, lies Šibenik. For those in the know, the city provides a relaxed blend of history and natural beauty. It's home to two UNESCO Heritage sites — more than anywhere else in Croatia — and has long attracted TV and film producers who have made use of its honeyed stone streets, grand old buildings and dramatic natural setting. Journey through Šibenik's history, explore dramatic fortresses and sample traditional Dalmatian cuisine on a city break here in 2025.
While many other settlements on this stretch of coastline were founded by Romans, Greeks or other invading forces, Šibenik was founded by Slavs at least as early as 1066 AD and, as such, is considered the oldest Croatian town on the Adriatic Coast. In the intervening centuries, Venetians, Byzantines, Hungarians and Habsburgs came and went, but Šibenik has remained resolutely itself: laid-back, good-looking and seemingly unbothered by the winds of political strife. Nowadays, it's a relaxed harbour town of a little over 40,000 people, known for its architecture, restaurants and cafe culture. The town also attracts crowds for its annual events such as September's Medieval Fair and SHIP Music Festival, as well as The Croatian Travel Festival (also in September), where passionate explorers and travel writers can come together and be inspired through workshops, talks and networking opportunities.
Perhaps unsurprisingly for such a historic city, Šibenik has been used as a filming location, most notably in the fantasy series Game of Thrones, in which it doubled for the fictional city of Braavos. The Cathedral of St James featured as a prominent backdrop in several episodes of the series, as did St John's Fortress, which appeared as a fighting pit.
Begin your historical tour at the Cathedral of St James, one of the city's two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the only cathedral in Europe built entirely from stone. The mighty basilica was completed in 1535 and features a simple altar, unadorned marble walls and carved icons and friezes. Next to the Cathedral is the Šibenik City Museum — an excellent place to learn about the city's history from the Middle Ages through to the modern era.
Another of the city's major historical sights is the imposing St Nicholas Fortress, built on the islet of Ljuljevac, in Šibenik's harbour, by the Venetians in the 16th century. To visit, join a boat tour from the waterfront — after a 30-minute journey on the Adriatic Sea, you'll disembark to explore the fort on foot, with an interactive audiovisual tablet helping to bring the ruins to life.
The fortress did its job: Šibenik was never again invaded from the sea. There remains a cloistered feel about the city, thanks in no small part to its position in the natural harbour — and historically, it was the fjord-like switchbacks of the Krka estuary, along with the ironclad fortifications, that protected the city from seafaring invaders. This sheltered atmosphere can be experienced throughout the city, in quiet spots like the Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden, on the grounds of the former St Lawrence Monastery. Grab an ice cream from the garden cafe and watch the world go by after an afternoon spent pounding the streets.
Perhaps more than any other nearby city, Šibenik encapsulates the Dalmatian ethos of fjaka (the art of relaxing and living in the now). This enigmatic quality is best experienced in the city's relaxed cafe culture and restaurant scene, which allows visitors to experience some of the very best Dalmatian cuisine.
One of Šibenik's best high-end restaurants is Pelegrini, a Michelin-starred spot in the Old Town. Chef Rudolf Štefan draws on the finest produce from the surrounding countryside and nearby coast to produce dishes that remain true to the earthy roots of traditional local cuisine. The signature plate is confit duck breast with pasta in a pecorino sauce, and dishes are accompanied by a selection of the best Dalmatian wines.
Of course, even for the most well-heeled traveller, a Michelin-starred restaurant tends to only be an occasional treat, and the city's day-to-day culinary life plays out in its cafes and restaurants. Stroll along the waterfront, and the warren of streets behind it, and take your pick from the traditional konobas (taverns) serving local wine, fresh seafood and hearty country dishes. Konoba Marenda is justifiably popular for its fried sea bass and rich goulash — be sure to arrive early to beat the crowds.
The terracotta roofs of the Old Town shelter some truly fantastic boutique hotels, such as Armerun Heritage Hotel & Residence, which sits within the historic city ramparts and overlooks the harbour and the Krka estuary. If you prefer a modern resort-style experience, try D-Resort Šibenik, located on the Mandalina Peninsula, that juts out into the bay opposite the waterfront. If you're after extra seclusion, the hills above Šibenik are home to some beautiful villas, including Villa Sunset Lady, which overlooks the vineyards and city below.
This paid content article was created for Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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