Malaysia serves kitchen diplomacy at ASEAN leaders' table

The Sun

24-05-2025

KUALA LUMPUR: Behind the warmth of diplomatic pleasantries at the 46th ASEAN Summit lies another, less visible yet equally critical mission. The real heat, however, isn't at the negotiating table —it's in the kitchen of the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC).
At the helm of this high-stakes culinary operation is KLCC's executive chef, Chef Hisham Jaafar, 52, who has devoted more than 15 years to mastering high-end cuisine within the prestigious venue's kitchens.
This marks the third time Chef Hisham has shouldered the responsibility of preparing meals for a major international event. A decade ago, he catered for a summit graced by dignitaries including former US President Barack Obama and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
'We were honoured to be entrusted with the 26th ASEAN Summit in 2015, along with other global events like the World Islamic Economic Forum.
'Perhaps that's why the Prime Minister's Office has once again placed its confidence in us,' he told Bernama.
But prior experience, he added, is not a free pass. The pressure is no less intense, especially when Prime Minister Datuk Seri Anwar Ibrahim sets the tone by insisting that each dish embodies the essence of Malaysia.
Under the summit's culinary theme, 'Malaysian on Plate', Hisham and his team began planning three months in advance. The aim: to serve not only enticing food, but also a menu that reflects the country's rich and multi-ethnic gastronomic heritage—from Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisine to the distinct flavours of Sabah and Sarawak.
'We're offering traditional delicacies like Baba and Nyonya dishes, 'umai' and 'kinilau' from East Malaysia, and a selection of classic desserts including 'seri muka', 'bingka', 'roti jala' and 'murtabak'.
'It may sound familiar, but we've raised the bar to ensure delegates experience an authentic taste of Malaysia,' he said.
Adding to the menu's appeal, nearly all ingredients are locally sourced—a decision that supports the domestic agricultural sector while showcasing the nation's capacity to produce premium raw materials.
Still, orchestrating a summit-scale banquet is no small feat. Each dish must respect the diverse tastes, cultures and religious practices of the ASEAN member states.
Then there are the inevitable last-minute changes—dietary restrictions, schedule adjustments, and requests for diabetic- or vegetarian-friendly meals—all of which require the kitchen team to adapt swiftly and seamlessly.
'There were days we worked from dawn until midnight, but we didn't mind. Opportunities like this don't come often.
'Now, I'm seeing the payoff. We've built a strong backup team. When I retire one day, I'm confident they'll carry on this legacy—perhaps on an even grander scale,' added Hisham.
The 46th ASEAN Summit, themed 'Inclusivity and Sustainability', is currently underway, beginning with senior officials' discussions and ministerial meetings on May 25, ahead of the heads of government session on May 26.
Two key side events accompany the summit: the second ASEAN-Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) Summit, and the inaugural ASEAN-GCC-China Summit—critical platforms aimed at deepening regional and inter-regional cooperation.