Just One Dish: Cyril Lignac

Times

5 days ago

Growing up in a rural French village nestled between Montpellier and Toulouse, the chef Cyril Lignac had not a single inkling that his path would lead him to a life of big city fame. His mother worked in a hospital and his father was a carpenter, and yet food was an abiding theme throughout his childhood. Food was the source of some of Lignac's fondest memories — particularly the family feasts where he witnessed the good cheer and camaraderie brought about by his mother's cooking. He realised that he too wanted to be the bearer of joy-inducing cuisine. 'What I love about cooking is the happiness it brings to people,' Lignac says.
His first step was to qualify as a pâtissier, chocolatier and ice-cream maker. Soon after, he trained as a chef. A job followed at the three Michelin-starred restaurant L'Arpège, where Alain Passard became his mentor. But the toque blanche is just one of many hats he wears. After putting in the hours at several restaurants around France, in 2005 Lignac was scouted to present the TV programme Oui Chef! — a bit like a French version of Jamie's Kitchen. Off the back of his TV gig, Lignac was able to open his first restaurant, Le Quinzième in Paris. Seven years later came a Michelin star. In 2012 he became the host of Le Meilleur Pâtissier (a French version of The Great British Bake Off). 'I'm Paul Hollywood in France,' he jokes.
Lignac now sits at the head of an empire that includes restaurants and bars throughout Paris, London and recently, Dubai. Bar des Prés was his first international affair, opening in London in 2021. Diners enjoy a cuisine that encompasses the best of France, while mixing in east Asian influences with local English produce. One of his all-time favourite dishes is Belle Langoustines with its tangy broth and Corsican Cédrat lemon. Watch the video to learn how to make it yourself.
Ingredients for 4 people
For the langoustine consommé
• The langoustine claws• 1 peeled carrot• 1 peeled onion• 10cm piece of celery stalk• 2 litres of mineral water• Olive oil
For the final sauce
• 25cl langoustine consommé• 15cl full-fat single cream• 100g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes• 1 tbsp ponzu vinegar• 1 Corsican Cédrat lemon• Fine salt and freshly ground pepper
For the langoustine consommé
1. In a saucepan, place the langoustine claws with a dash of olive oil, add the carrot, the celery stalk, the chopped onion, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf, then crush everything. Pour water up to the level of the claws. 2. Bring to a boil and skim. Reduce by half at a low boil without stirring to prevent sediment and a cloudy consommé. Strain through a fine sieve. 3. Reduce a second time if necessary. Strain through a fine cloth.4. Pour the broth into a saucepan, then pour in the cream, bring to a boil, and add the butter, emulsifying. Add the lemon zest and juice, then the ponzu. Check the seasoning and set aside.
For the langoustine tartare
• 4 large langoustines, shelled and gutted• 2 tbsp virgin olive oil• 2 sprigs of Thai chives• 1 pinch of espelette pepper• 1 tbsp chopped samphire in vinegar• Fleur de sel
1. Carefully cut the gutted langoustines into large cubes, season with olive oil, fleur de sel, finely chopped chives, and samphire, and finish with a squeeze of citron lemon zest. Set aside at room temperature.
For the roasted langoustines
• 8 large, large langoustines• Olive oil• Fleur de sel
1. Shell the langoustines. Brown them in olive oil, keeping only the back tender (do not cook the belly), and season with fleur de sel.
To finish and plate
1. In soup plates, place a 5-6cm diameter cookie cutter, add the seasoned langoustine tartare, remove the cutter, and place the roasted langoustines on top. 2. Heat the sauce until frothy, then place two spoonfuls around the langoustines. 3. You can also add langoustine chips made from tapioca flour and langoustine consommé.