
Jacquemus plays the peasant at the Château de Versailles to close Fashion Week
After presenting his "Le Chouchou" show there in 2023 on the banks of the Grand Canal, Simon Porte Jacquemus this time chose L'Orangerie, Louis XIV's citrus orchard, to unveil his new show entitled "Le Paysan".
"It echoes my family, who sold fruit," explained the 35-year-old Provençal to Le Figaro, who conceived this new mixed-gender collection as "an autobiographical journey", as he detailed on Instagram.
The show opened with women's silhouettes wearing large, flared skirts reminiscent of Provençal skirts, worn with wide, short-sleeved aprons, and continued with more sophisticated outfits, from sheath dresses to tight-fitting trouser suits and full-length dresses, not forgetting an all-lace dress.
Men also wore skirts over pants, as well as soft suits and Bermuda shorts, almost like jogging pants pulled up to the knees, accompanied by elegant jackets, light blouses, and sweatshirts, topped with a beret worn upside down.
The palette was essentially black and white, with touches of bright yellow, light blue, and powder pink.
Visibly moved, Simon Porte Jacquemus greeted his guests at the end of the show, who included actors Pierre Niney and Matthew McConaughey, singer Aya Nakamura, and footballer Jules Koundé.
After several years of staging shows whenever and wherever he pleased, whether in a lavender field in his native South or under the Capri sun, the designer returned to the official Fashion Week calendar in January, becoming the center of attention.
This week, he relinquished the spotlight to Northern Ireland's Jonathan Anderson, whose highly-anticipated first collection for Dior Homme was acclaimed. Julian Klausner's first men's show for Dries Van Noten also caused a sensation.
Men's Fashion Week will be followed by Haute Couture Week from Monday, July 7 to Thursday, July 10, featuring the debut of Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela.
Before that, American Michael Rider will unveil his first collection for Celine on July 6 with a mixed-gender show.
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Le Figaro
15-07-2025
- Le Figaro
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France 24
09-07-2025
- France 24
Demna to bow out at Balenciaga with farewell Paris fashion show
Demna, known for his daring work as well as controversies during his stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga, will unveil his final collection on Wednesday at what is likely to be a star-studded show. The 44-year-old, acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX, will begin his new task of reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci from Thursday. The man behind a $2,000 "Ikea" bag and a $1,800 so-called "trash pouch", as well as a much-criticised advertising campaign that appeared to reference child abuse, is not seen as a natural fit for the more classical Gucci label by some analysts. Shares in luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns Balenciaga and Gucci, fell around 12 percent on the day of the announcement of his promotion in March and have sunk further since. "His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs," Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault said at the time. Other more established and mainstream designers from Hedi Slimane, Maria Grazia Chiuri or Pierpaolo Piccioli had been linked to the vacancy. After Demna's farewell at midday in Paris (1000 GMT), Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight when he unveils a first collection for Maison Margiela, following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano. Martens has big shoes to fill, with the house's last couture show under eccentric showman Galliano in January 2024 considered a huge success by critics. The day will also see new collections unveiled by the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf, Hong Kong's Robert Wun, French designer Franck Sorbier, Japan's Yuima Nakazato and the Lebanese designers Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab. Tuesday saw a final show by Chanel under its in-house design studio, the fifth since former chief creative Virginie Viard's sudden departure in June 2024. The collection featured a play-it-safe reinterpretation of its classic tweed looks in front of A-listers from Marion Cotillard, Penelope Cruz and Kirsten Dunst to singers Lorde and Gracie Abrams. Newly installed chief creative Matthieu Blazy, a discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer, will showcase his first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel in October in what will be one of the biggest events of the fashion calendar this year. Haute Couture Week is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations bought by celebrities and VIPs for red carpets, galas and other high-profile events.


Fashion Network
05-07-2025
- Fashion Network
Spring/Summer 2026 men's collections: Galeries Lafayette's head menswear buyer gives her take
Menswear took centre-stage in June. The season kicked off with the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, continued with Milan Fashion Week, and ended with the Jacquemus runway show that brought Paris Fashion Week to a close at the Orangery in the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the spotlight was on the men's collections for Spring/Summer 2026. What were the takeaways of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of menswear purchasing at Galeries Lafayette. See catwalk Feillard has always regarded Pitti Uomo as a key occasion for scrutinising different product categories and positioning segments. 'The Pitti session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,' she said. 'We always discover new labels [at Pitti] and enjoy meeting with labels we're working with, like Homme Plissé, the show's guest of honour, which presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici palazzo. Pitti sets the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, some big names that will show in September were missing, but this enabled younger, more niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, like Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood,' she added. See catwalk Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion hub, the main venue for runway shows and showrooms by both established and emerging labels. 'The latest Paris Fashion Week was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high standard of execution,' she said, underlining that this applied both to major labels and independent designers. 'While the market situation is tough, labels have decided to push the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desirability, emotional appeal and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,' she added. It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was apparent in the setting of many of the shows. She cited ' Louis Vuitton 's grandiose setting on the Beaubourg forecourt,' as well as Rick Owens 's spectacular performance in the fountain of the Palais de Tokyo, at once punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian, filmic setting created by Ami in place des Victoires; Y-3's choice of a dance performance; and manga aficionado Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animation film during his discreet presentation at the Silencio club.' Feillard reckons that the season's main events took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut at Dior Homme. 'Dior is writing an exciting new chapter in its history, spearheaded by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well-known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson cleverly tapped into Dior's heritage and archives to propel the house into the future, presenting a decidedly avant-garde, rather intellectual collection,' she said. See catwalk Ranking in Feilllard's top five, there was another debut, Julian Klausner's at Dries Van Noten. 'All of Dries's codes where there, but younger silhouettes, clearer cuts, and sharper colours gave the collection a strong hint of modernity,' she said. Feillard also mentioned Lemaire which, 'season after season, keeps showcasing a virtually perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,' Saint Laurent for its 'sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent colour palette,' and media-savvy Jacquemus, which 'presented a beautiful highly individual collection rooted in its DNA. The icing on the cake of a very successful fashion week.' See catwalk Feillard also appreciated some lesser-known creative talents, like Hed Mayner, Auralee, KidSuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that 'Willy Chavarria and Kartik Research were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, staging extremely convincing shows.' She added that AlainPaul, the Andam Prize's latest winner, will be available at Galeries Lafayette next season. Overall, Feillard was positive about the prospects for Spring/Summer 2026. She observed that most of next summer's collections featured lightweight, almost ethereal natural materials, placing the accent on fluid, sophisticated tailoring. She is also expecting 'an injection of vibrant colours, after several seasons of monochrome hues, although taupe and chocolate brown will still be ubiquitous.' Feillard's favourite items were 'an ample double-breasted jacket worn over trousers with generous darts, a taupe suede jacket, a loose-fitting striped shirt, an elegant striped pyjama set, darted shorts and micro shorts.' For the early part of the season, she liked 'a cotton or light nylon coat.' To complete their looks, men will wear 'soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flip-flops.'